If you have a '11 or newer STD RMK, take the left controls off and compare the wiring colors to the diagram I posted, if they are the same, you may get lucky.
My thoughts on the 2014 Standard RMK Vs the 2014 PRO RMK.
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
If you have a '11 or newer STD RMK, take the left controls off and compare the wiring colors to the diagram I posted, if they are the same, you may get lucky.
Throttle response...
Yes... apples and oranges...
a 2012 has better Throttle response than a 2011 (different engines)
For Appples/Apples on a 2013... the 2013 Assault has better throttle response than a 2012 Assault (same, exact, motor as 2013 PRO and 2012 pro for comparison.)
The engines themselves keep getting better... I'd bet the 2014 engine is improved slightly, in some way over the 2013.
Good that you have had zero problems with your 2013... that is the way it is Supposed to be!
The majority of 2013 owners did not have issues...but as I said, a significant number did with the quickdrive and arms.
Nice thing is ... you did not see a lot of 2013 800 engines having problems. !!
Yes... apples and oranges...
a 2012 has better Throttle response than a 2011 (different engines)
For Appples/Apples on a 2013... the 2013 Assault has better throttle response than a 2012 Assault (same, exact, motor as 2013 PRO and 2012 pro for comparison.)
The engines themselves keep getting better... I'd bet the 2014 engine is improved slightly, in some way over the 2013.
Good that you have had zero problems with your 2013... that is the way it is Supposed to be!
The majority of 2013 owners did not have issues...but as I said, a significant number did with the quickdrive and arms.
Nice thing is ... you did not see a lot of 2013 800 engines having problems. !!
Wires are the same, as is the Left side control.
You would do like Rich did and cut the harness and splice on for the new switch/location.
You can find master cylinders and the new double-banjo hose used from a dragon for cheap.... Perc switches are inexpensive as well.
For me, the left control is pretty nice, less clutter on the console:face-icon-small-hap.
I'll eat some crow as well.
The 6 bogies on the PRO weigh just under 5 lbs... The 9 lbs was for the old solid wheel bogies on the 2008 and prior MY BAD! . Scratchers weight 1.2 lbs for the pair.
You would do like Rich did and cut the harness and splice on for the new switch/location.
You can find master cylinders and the new double-banjo hose used from a dragon for cheap.... Perc switches are inexpensive as well.
For me, the left control is pretty nice, less clutter on the console:face-icon-small-hap.
I'll eat some crow as well.
The 6 bogies on the PRO weigh just under 5 lbs... The 9 lbs was for the old solid wheel bogies on the 2008 and prior MY BAD! . Scratchers weight 1.2 lbs for the pair.
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One of the big weight diffs that is a moot point as I presented above is from the front cooler and coolant.
With that tunnel cooler in place... you avoid completely the large slab of ice/snow that builds at the front of the tunnel... IMO... that weight gain is a push with the PRO model that gains a lot of weight as you ride in that area... besides "choking" off the front of the tunnel.
The other BIG benefit is the additional cooling of the Std. RMK, which is a big deal to some.
The PRO RMK is a great machine... I'm presenting an alternative view.
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With that tunnel cooler in place... you avoid completely the large slab of ice/snow that builds at the front of the tunnel... IMO... that weight gain is a push with the PRO model that gains a lot of weight as you ride in that area... besides "choking" off the front of the tunnel.
The other BIG benefit is the additional cooling of the Std. RMK, which is a big deal to some.
The PRO RMK is a great machine... I'm presenting an alternative view.
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MH, I hope you didn't take it the wrong way. Your post was really informative and I used it to help make my decision. I was just letting everyone know what I was thinking.
I really considered the snow buildup from no front cooler. I think in my drier snow conditions that may not be an issue, only time will tell. Also the extra room may help with snow evacuation. I've always wondered so we'll see.
I only have 8 miles of trail to my riding area so I don't think I need the extra cooling.
I considered the std RMK because of your post it really helped alot.
Thanks
SB
I really considered the snow buildup from no front cooler. I think in my drier snow conditions that may not be an issue, only time will tell. Also the extra room may help with snow evacuation. I've always wondered so we'll see.
I only have 8 miles of trail to my riding area so I don't think I need the extra cooling.
I considered the std RMK because of your post it really helped alot.
Thanks
SB
I didn't take it the wrong way...I like good open discussions and I've learned a lot in the process. Posts like yours are what makes this forum interesting.
I'm pretty sure that the lug-tip-clearance is the same PRO/STD...The cooler does not protrude into the tunnel like on the IQ chassis RMK's.
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I'm pretty sure that the lug-tip-clearance is the same PRO/STD...The cooler does not protrude into the tunnel like on the IQ chassis RMK's.
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I'd love to see the Poo ECU water temp - exhaust temp - timing map data. I'm seeing RPM drops after the motor and pipe get heat soaked, and if you have a head kit or any fix that runs hotter than the stock 128, the RPM drop after thoroughly heat soaked appears to be more pronounced. The point being - keeping temps down with additional cooling or bypasses, e.g. the TRS $28 doo fix - appears to be working. This has been pushed back and forth since the gizmo showed up in 10 - if we had the ECU map we'd know for sure.
Waxer....About how much...4 yr warranty...belt,cover oil? document fee , set up ///
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what you can do is what rev guys use to do. Buy a new brake lever assembly and you move the block down to the riser and screw it to the riser sideways. You need probably at least a 4-5" riser im guessing. The whole front bolts to the rear to sandwich the bars.
was really thinking of doing this to my 08 rmk but i thought time and money into a narrower throttle would be better. I like my throttle a ways away from my grip. I have big hands.
would be like the pic but polaris, and bolted not zip tied.
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Harness is different.
Yep... The harness is different to accommodate the switches on the console and the location of the speedo sensor.
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Great post Eric, very informative and helpful to perspective buyers.
LMAO Im buying a standard snow flap and doing some testing
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I'm still trying to decide what to buy ,some good info here.
Eric can you put on a picture of the 600 standard for an easy comparison of the blue versus white?
Eric can you put on a picture of the 600 standard for an easy comparison of the blue versus white?
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Here is pic of 144 RMK 600.
The blue actually looks really sharp in person.
The blue actually looks really sharp in person.
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They should put a bulk head cooler on the assault. I would have bought that instead of the pro and put a 163 on it
It makes sense being its a spring snow/jumping sled.
It makes sense being its a spring snow/jumping sled.
I have had many Polaris sleds in my day, and I do agree that the chain drive has been very reliable. But I think the chain drive will suffer the same fate that metal skis did soon after the plastic skis came out.:face-icon-small-hap
