MM build

vipermountain700 · Dec 18, 2010

Hey guys im goung to build a 97 mm into a much better hill climber/boondocker.

So far the plan is slp pipes, 151 track, 5in bar risers, aftermarket running boards, light weight highrise seat, goldfinger throtle and maybe aftermarket skis.

As of right now i have ordered the risers,purchased a seat,ordered the running boards, and purchased the left hand throtle and have viper skis.

Thin Air powersports is going to make some calls and get me a track kit and pipes orderd on monday.

If you have any sugestions i would love to hear them.

Spencer

vipermountain700 · Dec 18, 2010

This is with the seat. the seat isnt actually on yet but i thinki can make it work. the seat was originally for an Rx1 i belive but it will fit. just look a little funny.

Strillan · Dec 19, 2010

I hope you dont mean the stock viper skis? slim like ice skates?

take the yamaha mtn skis instead since ut building a deep powder machine.

they are 136" stock? extend to 144" maybe? and put some higher drop brackets?
I think they also got a swaybar? remove that too

vipermountain700 · Dec 19, 2010

They are stock viper skis but they is alot better then the metal ones it came with. id like to put some nitro or apex skis on it. anybody have any?

I also plan on getting rid of the sway bar and extending the track to 151.
Thanks
spencer

vipermountain700 · Dec 20, 2010

How can I reinforce the stearing post? Any other sugestions?
Thanks for your time and help.
Spencer

vipermountain700 · Dec 21, 2010

Got the risers and cabels today. wondering how you guys do all the wiring to the bars. Just lookin at it real quick and it looks to me like the wires will be exposed when the risers are installed with the stock bar covers on.
Help? haha.
thanks
Spencer

thinksnow · Dec 21, 2010

Call Tom Hartman with Hartman Inc.. He has everything you need and will get you setup right the first time. He has the knowledge to make the MM700 rock. My old MM700 beat up on a lot of newer sleds and was fun and realiable.

zoombyu · Dec 22, 2010

X2 with Hartman. (http://www.hartmaninc.com/)
There is a kit (Hartman) to move suspension for a better track angle to get it on top of snow easier. It changes it to the 2000 MM angle.
As far as skis, the newer Yamaha Mountain skis are without a saddle and will make the front end sit lower than it should. It will work, but not like it should. My nephew has been riding like that. Wouldn't be my first choice.
Check out Totally Yamaha (http://www.totallyamaha.com/). A ton of info on there about different pipes, carbs, jetting, suspension, etc.

Good luck with the build. The Redhead motor has a great deal of respect from a lot of people.
You can sometimes buy a sled already modded for cheaper, but it is not the same as building it yourself!!!!

HDEMWET · Dec 22, 2010

i've redone a 99 mm700, they definetely do rock, but it sounds like you're going longer than i did. i left mine as a 136" but switched to a single layer 1 1/2" camoplast lightweight track with anti ratchet drivers. I would for sure install AVID's as the horsepower you will be making will cause ratcheting problems. As far as the steering post, I'd ordered a slug made by Mountain Performance, you simply hammer it in and rivet it through the column. I added 6" risers and swivel post by powermadd, it necessitated a longer brake hose and cable extensions, but the stock wiring made it just fine. I bought some wire loom and tie wrapped everything up*nicely. Another great pipe setup is from Hauck performance, they make a clutch kit and send proper jets for your application, cost me about 1300$ to ship it up here to Canada. Ditch the airbox and run pod style filters, i bought the cheap foam ones and covered them with K&N socks, also got a lightweight hood from mountain performance, it's only 7 pounds with the stock gauges. these old triples run great and are truly diehard, have fun

thinksnow · Dec 22, 2010

One more thing, upgrade your driveshaft if it hasn't already been done. I broke mine on my 99MM700 after extending it out to 159". It took out the chaincase, bearings, extroverts, gears, etc.. That was a costly mistake that luckily was covered by warranty with a "good" dealer.LOL

After that happened, we changed all of the driveshafts on our older Mtn Max's. If you leave it stock length, most are fine. It seems that once you extend them, it is a disaster waiting to happen.

vipermountain700 · Dec 22, 2010

Got everything ordered. Can't wait till it gets here. Got brand new slp pipes too . Plan on installing the risers tomarow after work. Thanks for your help guys. I'll keep you updated with pics of the build.
Thanks

Oh and I lovethe looks of that yamahauler haha i'm a ford man too.

Yamaha_Ryder · Dec 23, 2010

Definitely update your drive shaft and steering column. Anti rachet drivers are also a must. Also, get Mountain Performance's "Transfer Enhancement kit" that is by far the best $50 i've spent on that sled. Ditch the sway bar and stiffen up the springs a couple notches on the front shocks too. If you haven't already done so, go through your clutches and get those freshened up. That will make a huge difference! Good luck and have fun!

vipermountain700 · Dec 23, 2010

how long do you guys think the driveline and stearing post will last?
because im about $1000 over what i planned on spending. think they will hold up until next season? sleds only got about 3000 miles on it.
Spencer

neverenoughsnow · Dec 23, 2010

updated axle

The updated axle is a must have, it used to be $100. You can tell if you have the updated axle by looking at it ( clutch side ), the new one has a notch cut in the end where the old axle just had a chamfered edge ( 45 degrees ). When they go out it usually takes out the chain case and some other parts, so it is cheap insurance to update.

vipermountain700 · Dec 24, 2010

Ok. Ill look into gettin one if it doesnt already have one.
Thanks
Spencer

thinksnow · Dec 25, 2010

DON'T try and save a $100 on a part that will cost $2000+ to fix if it fails. I think it would have cost me over $2400 if warranty wouldn't have covered it.

It's not worth trying to save a couple bucks now and worry about it everything you nail the throttle. I was on the trail when mine went and I was lucky I was not in a hell hole and try and tow it out or pay for a chopper to lift it out. We were lucky to be where we were and my dad's sled was able to tow it out. I had to walk 5 miles down the trail until someone finally came along and gave me a ride. It would have been a LONG walk out if that guy wouldn't have come along. We were still out 10+ miles from the lot when we met my dad coming back to get me. Walking out sucks.LOL I now carry some rollup sleds in the trailer incase something like this ever happens again. The track was totally locked up.

maxco · Dec 28, 2010

x2 hartman you will want 8 tooth anti-ratchet drivers. also tom will recomend changing the gearing to 19-42. the spring and helix in your secondary, and check your primary weight/spring. it all has to work together to distribute your newly piped power. You will have to re-jet for the pipes, so alot of plug tests are in your future. have fun

vipermountain700 · Dec 28, 2010

Where can I buy a stronger one?

neverenoughsnow · Dec 28, 2010

axles and parts

Start with these two, I think Tom at Hartman will be the most helpful. http://www.mountainperformance.com/yamaha_power_train.htm
http://www.hartmaninc.com/

vipermountain700 · Dec 29, 2010

I talked to my dealer today and he said he doesn't think I need a stronger one.

MM build

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