Mountain Max Gurus WANTED!!!

thierracing · Aug 26, 2013

Alright guys. So i got the Winter Itch today and I know theres still a few of you master minds out there! I have a few questions for you about my MM700 for the up and coming season. To start out my sled is a 2000 MM 700 with 3xxx Miles on it. For mods its got triple SLP pipes. V Force reeds. ATACC system for the altitude adjustments. it was clutched by Gary Ulmer for the previous owner. And it has the Transfer enhancement kit from MPI. i think i got all the mods in there. So my questions for you are;

1. With my Transfer enhancment kit will i need anti rachet drivers?
2. I used to have a huge problem with my exhaust choking out/ moisture in my air box or one of the ten million other supposable causes for this problem. You know what im talking about im sure. But anyways i used to have some pretty bad holes in my air box filter like they all had. i replaced it this year with a new filter and it seemed to work fine again but with minnesotas crappy weather and a shoulder surgery i only got the sled out in decent powder once.and i have the powder deflector on the exhaust to. So im not really sure if the problem is fixed yet or not. but what i was wondering is, is it worth doing the "air box mod'' to my sled or would you just leave it due to reliability. if i should do it, does anyone have a link to the how to i know i seen it somewhere but i cant find it anymore.

Any feed back would be great!

mysledblows · Aug 26, 2013

The airbox mod seems to be love/hate thing. Some guys do it and can't get the jetting stabilized. Others have no problem. Ivembeen running mine for years with no,problem. I had a lean bog when snapping the throttle open and solved it by dropping the air jet to a .7 or .8 vs the stock 1.0.

thinksnow · Aug 29, 2013

I had no problems with the airbox mod. You should be able to find it over on Totallyamaha's site.

I don't think you have to run extroverts. I had a 159" track on mine so I ran them just to be safe.

Make sure you have the updated driveshaft. If you have the bad one it's only a matter of time before it breaks and you then you will be spending some money. Luckily mine was covered under warranty.

Backwoods M Max · Sep 3, 2013

I can't speak to the issue your having with the moisture in the airbox, other than maybe the reeds are starting to go and your getting gas blowback into the airbox.

As far as the extroverts, they are a good idea to have with the MPI kit. The extra transfer can cause ratcheting even with book spec track tension. With the extroverts you can run the track looser which is free hp. Tom Hartmann recommends that the track has 1" free hang at its lowest point with the extroverts.

sledhead_79 · Sep 11, 2013

Gut your airbox out, remove all inner plastic and materials. I recommend putting on extroverts, you will be able to run your track a tad bit looser. Remember the tighter the track, the more power it takes to turn.

thierracing · Nov 14, 2013

thinksnow said:
I had no problems with the airbox mod. You should be able to find it over on Totallyamaha's site.

I don't think you have to run extroverts. I had a 159" track on mine so I ran them just to be safe.

Make sure you have the updated driveshaft. If you have the bad one it's only a matter of time before it breaks and you then you will be spending some money. Luckily mine was covered under warranty.

thinksnow, so there was an updated drive shaft for the 2000 MM as well? I thought it was just for the older styles. If so would you happen to know how I could check? like a PN maybe? Thanks for the advice!

RMG · Nov 15, 2013

I had good luck with sealing the hood to airbox (weatherstrip) and taping off those holes on underside of hood so that I only got outside air. I also drilled some 1" holes in the dash close to the windshield (they were not real visible unless the windsheild was off) to let hot air out. A prefilter sock for the air intake is a must so it doesnt clog with ice.

thinksnow · Nov 15, 2013

I don't remember what year got the updated shaft. Just order one for a newer Mountain Max. They all had the same size shaft. They probably don't even list the bad one. They updated because it was a problem.

TRIPLESWILLNEVERDIE! · Nov 15, 2013

2001 was the update year for the driveshaft. They can be identified by machined outer edge vs chamfered edge of the old style on the speedo drive end of the driveshaft.

You will most likely need extroverts. Going to the transfer enhancement kit uncouples the suspension and cause slack in the track when the rear half is collapsed.

Air box mod is a must.

If your sled is bogging when you snap the throttle wide open and hold it pinned but it then picks up when choke is flipped half on then you need to do as mysledblows stated and drop to a .08 air jet.
You will be amazed at the difference in throttle response.

Mcx Nytro · Nov 24, 2013

What is your clutching?? You will get as much out of this as you will triple pipes. SLP work not bad for that motor(better for the viper), but you can't pull the motor like with bender pipes. But clutching is key to these lower HP motors.

thierracing · Nov 25, 2013

I'm not for sure what Ulmer did when he played with the clutching. It seems to have a ton of low end pull and not so much on the top end. when I bought it from the dealer I was told it was professionally clutched by gary ulmer himself.

Mcx Nytro · Nov 26, 2013

thierracing said:
I'm not for sure what Ulmer did when he played with the clutching. It seems to have a ton of low end pull and not so much on the top end. when I bought it from the dealer I was told it was professionally clutched by gary ulmer himself.

What kind of riding does he do??Heard of him but not sure where he is

thierracing · Nov 26, 2013

Im not for sure if he still is but he used to be Yamaha's sno cross race team mechanic back in the day when they ran the 2 strokes from what i have been told. I believe he lives in south Dakota now and is doing a bunch of clutching/gearing/moding to Yamaha sled guys bring in. The guy I bought my sled from said he had it set up for performing better in the deep snow and set to climb better. I was also givin a helix for the Black hills elevation set by Ulmer for that elevation. The way its set up now that thing pulls like crazy on the low to mid range then tappers off towards 75mph but i'm not really the type of guy that like to go fast id much rather tree ride and climb with my sleds. I love it so far! And as far as the weight of the sled i grew up riding yamaha so im used to the heavier machines and being a bigger taller guy myself i wouldnt trade my yamahas for anything! so reliable!! and that sound is to die for!

Mcx Nytro · Nov 27, 2013

thierracing said:
Im not for sure if he still is but he used to be Yamaha's sno cross race team mechanic back in the day when they ran the 2 strokes from what i have been told. I believe he lives in south Dakota now and is doing a bunch of clutching/gearing/moding to Yamaha sled guys bring in. The guy I bought my sled from said he had it set up for performing better in the deep snow and set to climb better. I was also givin a helix for the Black hills elevation set by Ulmer for that elevation. The way its set up now that thing pulls like crazy on the low to mid range then tappers off towards 75mph but i'm not really the type of guy that like to go fast id much rather tree ride and climb with my sleds. I love it so far! And as far as the weight of the sled i grew up riding yamaha so im used to the heavier machines and being a bigger taller guy myself i wouldnt trade my yamahas for anything! so reliable!! and that sound is to die for!

What helix is it?? With the triples you should run a cat red secondary( or yellow) set @ 0/2 with a 51/45 or 49/45. Probably with slp pipes I would go with the 49/45 or even 49/43. Be sure to cut the helix so it will completely shift out. All Yami helixes come with a lip that prevents the full shift.

thierracing · Dec 20, 2013

Found out my low elevation helix is a 47* and my high elevation (7000 ft) is a 41* helix.

Backwoods M Max · Dec 20, 2013

What did you do about your drivers? I would ratchet with the stock 141 and the transfer straps so it was a no brainer to go to anti ratchets with my 151 this year, plus free hp from running the track looser.

thierracing · Dec 21, 2013

I just got my anti ratchets in the shop today. Hoping to get them on next week. It sucks that they're soo spendy but itll be nice to not have to worry about the ratcheting with the transfer kit. and like you said, the extra freed hp from the looser track will be nice.

TRUEBLUEMAX · Dec 21, 2013

I agree that anti ratchet drivers are a must with the transfer enhancement kit. I'd be careful how loose you run your track. I stabbed one running it too loose and I think the loose track freeing up horsepower is way overblown. If the cons outweighed the pros I think all the manufacturers would be running them loose also. Just my two cents.

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