2005 900 engine rebuild

2005 900 engine replace and sled refurbish

Hello! Have not posted on Snowest since 2009 for the most part

Here is our old thread regarding our two 2005 900 sleds:

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41263

My sled went through some changes last season, I was shopping for a front bumper when I found an entire sled for parts instead. It had some really nice parts on it, so I installed most of them on my 900. This year I went to start her up and I found lots of coolant in the exhaust. So now I am in the process of rebuilding my 900 top end, and working on my spare engine to try and get both of our 900's back on the trail this season.

sled is question my 2005 900 RMK 162" mod sled

esterday I pulled the engine (coolant in exhaust)

This engine was dyno'ed and given the RMX performance kit (high compression head). This 900 was their test mule for the 900 platform if I remember right.

Rocky Mountain Xtreme

So I am hoping to just do the top end, address the flywheel stator, new water pump seal, fuel filter and put her back together.

Taking a break now the engine is out.
Next I will do the tear down

I have another engine with a billet head, said to have no spark. I am not sure if this engine has a SLP head or what, it may have the entire SLP power package on it? Will have to look into this.
I thought the SLP head has "SLP" etched into the top?

Interesting note the coolant had pressure on both sides of the engine? when I disco'd the front coolant hose on the thermo housing it shot out, same on the rear of the head. Is this because I turned the engine over a few times when taking the belt off and the pull rope handle?

did not expect that!













Here is my spare "builder" 900 with billet head. No spark according to guy I bought it from.
Flywheel puller is in so will have a look see at the flywheel and stator finally. Top end looks newer from outside (fresh gaskets, clean, etc)



WHICH ONE SHOULD I BUILD?
I will go through both and see what we find.

Cleaning time

interesting
the billet builder engine did have flywheel separation and indeed was cutting the magneto wires
So I will do a compression test on it and if it checks out I will probably just run it!






I can rebuild my engine and put it in my wife/guest sled 2005 900 (center crank oil bath seal leaking)

tear down of my 2005 900 with the RMX power package, 1500 miles approx
No washers under the head bolts

everything inside looks pretty good! Could it be the head O rings just failed? / head bolts not torqued?























water pump seal I replaced in 2008, still holding well!

Dude thanks for the info!! I posted this thread with hopes of finding info about this machine and who built it. Right now its all guessing about this billet engine

I did not remove the head off the billet engine because it all checks out!
I am in the process of putting it into my sled. Yesterday it got a new oil and waterpump seal, then I fixed the flywheel and stator. Planning to drop it in today.

The "red head" liberty engine looks to have 2005 pistons. I have a Wiseco forged kit here to rebuild the top end with. The bottom end checks out, with only 1100 miles the lower end looks good! I believe it just lost the head O rings but its time for a top end anyways. It got up to about 205 last winter, probably why it lost the O rings this year after cold start?

This billet engine I would imagine would have high altitude, since it was built here in CO.
Now you have me wondering! perhaps I should remove the head?
I was not sure if its a RTK, SLP or Bikeman head? it says nothing on it anywhere.

This entire engine seems to have just been built before it lost spark. The more I look at it and clean it the more I can see it is a recent build, I believe the cases were just sealed and new gaskets/seals everywhere. So I am hoping the whole deal has been build/ported/ polished / balanced whatever! The rest of the sled it came from was highly modified with top dollar parts and know how so perhaps the guy who built it had the engine done also? Word is a real die hard sled guy from Colorado Springs built this 900 before he was deployed to Afghanistan. The guy I bought it from (builders friend) said it was running great then all of sudden had no spark. I bought it for the parts ($1000) and have no looked back. The intake boots were cracking and I found the bad flywheel and cut wire in the stator. Compression is good, and upon inspection it all looks brand new??!?!

I have another 900 I am going to put the "red head" engine in after the rebuild. Plan is to sell this sled my wifes wants to get a 2 seater trail sled. I am trying to get my step son to buy it, first I have to make it run!

I would be interested in a Indy Dan lower unit for sure!! I just paid off my RZR Xp1000 so that will free up some $$$ for these kinds of things this spring! Let me know!

Pics coming later, planning to have my sled running today, Hoping the JB weld will hold the flywheel together.

some progress pictures:

Billet engine pre cleaning:




Cleaned the SH*^ out of the bulkhead:






Clearanced the case to give the stator wires some more room:




Waterpump and oil seal replacement (PITA!):
Old seals out


New oil seal pressed in with 1" socket and vaseline:

Notice the depth of the seal leaves the "weep hole" exposed

new WP seal ready to go in notice factory blue sealant:


This seal gets driven in very carefully so it does not come apart:


The proper depth of the inner portion of the WP seal, notice the back side of the WP impeller is recessed to match the seal:


WP gasket gets light coat of vaseline and install WP done!






Onto the fuel rail and injectors: (you can see the billet engine has now been cleaned)
(Injectors cleaned, engine and rail ports cleaned, fuel line cleaned, injector O rings lubed with vaseline (and install onto engine)








Flywheel and stator repair:
cut wire revealed


Flywheel cleaned of rouge and factory epoxy chipped out:


Mixed up JB weld and pressed flywheel inner ring back down:


Let is cure overnight, today it appears to be solid as a rock

Stator was cleaned of rouge, wire fixed (solder heat shrink), put it all back together:






So today engine is about ready to go in!!!

Just need to modify my engine cross member to accept the Compfusion mounts.

I do not see billet crossmembers for sale anywhere on the web anymore

Looking for any information on billet x members for the 900 to go with the compfusion mounts I have.

I have a spare x member, it is cracked, I can take it to a shop and have one cut locally I guess.

I remember reading recently about somebody dropping the U cooler on the back of the 900 for increased cooling ability? Something about drilling rivets and using 1/2" spacers so the air/snow can flow around the cooler?

I cannot find this now. I am looking for easy ways to improve the cooling on this sled. No front mount radiator, and I have scratchers

It is the SLP head, cool at least now I know who made it, I wonder if SLP would have record of this engine if they did in fact put it together?

progress

broken engine cross member, compfusion mounts were in this.
This sled was ridden hard to say the least! I used it for parts

I am building a small brace for the rear of this x member, to help support the back side of the now 8 mounting bolts.

AS you can see X member broke right at weak part of factory x member, the "notch" for steering clearance. Those factory rubber mounts sure have alot of "give" I will take it easy until I can get billet x member



JB Weld is holding just fine! Flywheel back on, had to go to Ace to get a 14m 1.5 pitch nut! I cannot believe I lost two of them somehow??



Flywheel "cooling" piece had tons of fabric like debris inside fins, a few minutes of cleaning here will go a long way





Mag side done:


Recoil is next:


factory X member before Compfusion mounts:


drilled:

two questions:

Do I need the exhaust donut 3610113 between the factory Y pipe and SLP mid pipe?

What controller should I be running? Do I need to have my digital wrench updated?

My 2005 has always run fantastic, I read the SLP exhaust installation instructions and they said with this exhaust I need to have dealer update my digital wrench ignition and fuel mapping??
I have no idea if this was done to this sled, if it was it was in 2006-07. Is this something I can do myself?


Help!! thanks............

thank you for the info!!

I dread going to Polaris dealers around here = SUCKS! Two "good" dealers I am aware of are more then 70 miles one way

Okay so here is the simple "brace" I built from 1/4" x 1.5" aluminum stock
I am hoping this will support the back side of the x member, tying the 4 top bolts together for lateral strength between the mounts. On the top side of the x member the engine acts like a lateral support (side to side) and when looking at the stock x member with Compfusion mounts (THANKS COLIN!) it looks weak on the back side. So I am hoping this $12 fix will help.

I added a 5th bolt to the center for even more strength

Brace cut:




assembled:




I had to flip one bolt and make the notch for steering linkage clearance

Test fit: Mag side cooling hose in place, all steering linkage and U joint soaked in PB blaster. Careful routing of all sensors and hoses from engine, watch the upper fuel line if not routed properly you will kink the nylon line and it will never be the same


On engine:




I did the thermostat and oil pump and installed the engine. Only a few hours from running now. Need to service recoil assembly and primary clutch then its go time!

Engine is in, oil pump is assembled and installed, oil lines filled, center crank bath filled, oil lines installed. FBF cable adjusted and installed, reed and throttle bodies in place, wiring is routed


new thermo and gasket, weep hole goes up! spring towards engine




engine in place final:







More pics later!

okay finally some progress, had to put the sled aside and finish some other projects.

Today I serviced my recoil assembly. Thanks to 94Fordguy for his informative post about this little gem and how to:

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264857

My recoil spring came loose when I dis assembled the pull rope assembly. I just spent almost two hours getting it back in there. Wow what a pita and my hands are now tired. The good news is I successfully cleaned and rebuilt the recoil using Amsteel 3/8" synthetic rope (in black)

Anyone who needs to get there recoil spring seated back into the housing, I have a method that works. Put the spring on your leg and hold it tight with right hand. Use the left hand to tighten the band around and pull it tight until your recoil is smaller in dia then the housing. You don't have to hold the center of the spring (it will cut into your finger) instead just hold tight each wind as you go around, using the pressure between your right hand and leg to hold the outer diameter after each pass. The tricky part is getting this sucker to be about 3" around, very very tightly wound and then hold it like that as you seat the hook end of the spring into the housing. It took a few tries but I got it!

Other then that follow 94Fordguy's thread.

Thanks 94Fordguy!

Also the sled has been sitting in for almost a week, good news I left the bleed screw on the oil pump cracked and fresh clean 2 stroke gravity fed through. So the oil pump is now full and ready for final prime when I first start the engine I will use a coat hanger to hold it open just to be sure. Also I will mix some oil with the first tank of fuel

I had the oil pump and lines apart for a cleaning, so it was good news to see the oil flowing after gravity helped out for a few days. Also good to see the center crank seal is holding level

Now I can finally finish this sucker! and get to rebuilding the other 900 engines top end

few updates, no hurry, no snow :face-icon-small-sad

Engine assembly is almost done, wires routed, fuel tank back on mounts. This is a very snug fit!

I refurbished the recoil assembly, had to wait for Amsteel 3/8 rope, I purchased enough to do both engines. Effortless motion now. I battled the recoil spring ALOT, best to just leave that sucker alone. I wanted to clean the housing behind it, in hindsight I think I would just add some fresh grease and leave it be. It is a bitch to get back in place by hand.







Flyout in its proper position and effortless motion


Mounted:


ON 2005 900 just leave the bottom allen screw out, this way recoil, stator, flywheel can be serviced in the sled. No known ill effects from this mod.

You could modify the housing, I did not want to cut into this obviously structural part of the bulkhead


I wanted to clean and re seal the coolant overflow. This handy rubber plug made short work of it!








Final plumbing, cleaning. Now onto the clutch service & install, exhaust, fresh filter and fuel and fingers crossed:


Coolant hose wrapped with thermal heat and then tin metal so it doesn't melt on Y pipe

fuel line to tank needed a new spring inside:


more later!

Thanks man! I had read your recommendation about the tape, great idea

Heat treatment is coming, I have been gathering materials.
I tried with the simple metal HVAC tape I have and it just would not stick to the boots!! I was not happy with result. What kind of tape did you use? I was thinking perhaps an actual tin guard would go great here if I can make something fit.

Thanks for tip on oil line
You are talking the one that feeds the pump right? What is the factory routing on this SOB?

I will check my routing, it does go up after it leaves the bottom of the reservoir, maybe an inch? behind the engine...I will see if I cant get it in a better spot