Ok, so I noticed a very informational thread on here regarding the bdx oil delete. However, what I didnt find on that thread was step by step instructions as to how to remove the reservoir, lines, etc. Anybody have any info on this? Also, I know that I have to remove the black intake boot that sits between the throttle bodies and the intake. Any thoughts on this? It looks rough!
Another oil delete thread
- Thread starter jbusch
- Start date
9
It's not that bad.bdx web site has good instructions.you don't have to remove the boot.you do have to have small hand or patience
9
The oil tank has 3 bolts attaching it to the bulkhead. Chances are you will wreck the tank removing them. The rest can be removed from underneath by pulling the skid plate. Cap the two spigots on the intake boots and decide which method you would like to use to lubricate the water pump shaft and that's it.
Really not that bad. I even was able to salvage my oil tank just take it slow and have a couple beers it comes right out
R
I dont know what sled you are doing the delete on, but in my experience I did have to pull the black transition plastic that runs along side the oile resevoir. Maybe I was doing something wrong, but on my 08 M1000 I tried and tried to get the resevoir out of the sled without removing the black transition. If you can do it, then go for it.
Also, bdx includes a great set of instructions in the kit. Basically pull off your belly pan and start disconnecting hoses. If you have a clean catch pan you can save and re-use whatever oil is in your resevoir at the moment.
As far as blocking off the injection ports on the bottom of the intake boots, bdx suggests using a piece of the remaining oil hose to go between the two ports. That works well and I would have done that, but I had some vacuum line caps and I like they way they looked better than the oil line.
On th ebottom of the crank case there is an oil injection port for the middle bearings. The jury is out on whether or not it is a good idea to have some kind of extra lube to that bearing, but I figured it would be better to be safe than sorry. I have a hose going to that port and connected to a small pipe fitting so that I can pour an ounce of oile into it once in a while just to make sure that I am getting the right amount of lubrication.
Also, bdx includes a great set of instructions in the kit. Basically pull off your belly pan and start disconnecting hoses. If you have a clean catch pan you can save and re-use whatever oil is in your resevoir at the moment.
As far as blocking off the injection ports on the bottom of the intake boots, bdx suggests using a piece of the remaining oil hose to go between the two ports. That works well and I would have done that, but I had some vacuum line caps and I like they way they looked better than the oil line.
On th ebottom of the crank case there is an oil injection port for the middle bearings. The jury is out on whether or not it is a good idea to have some kind of extra lube to that bearing, but I figured it would be better to be safe than sorry. I have a hose going to that port and connected to a small pipe fitting so that I can pour an ounce of oile into it once in a while just to make sure that I am getting the right amount of lubrication.
9
You are correct. You may have to pull the belly pan to get at the 3rd bolt. It is buried in the silicone that Cat uses to seal the gap. I was able to get mine out without removing it but on others I have taken it off.
My oil bottle was stubborn stripped blind nut a swift kick and it was out (not using it again any way) and it was fast. the barbs under the carb boots can be just pinched shut as well
Use the search function you friggin NOOB! 
Jason, I'm not riding much yet (ok, that's a 1/2azz way of saying I haven't been out yet) and have some time on my hands in general. I'd be happy to swing down & lend a hand. The first one is always the toughest, and having done quite a few now I'm pretty handy at it now.
It's not "hard" but it's a pain to do.
You don't need to remove the t-bodies or the intake the tank will come out without.
Loop one oil line to the other t-body, decide how you want to deal with lube or not, zerk or not, and from there it's pretty easy.
I was thinking about going wheeling tomorrow, but if you're by chance working on it, I'd be happy to swing down... gotta do something to occupy my time since I'm not sledding!
Jason, I'm not riding much yet (ok, that's a 1/2azz way of saying I haven't been out yet) and have some time on my hands in general. I'd be happy to swing down & lend a hand. The first one is always the toughest, and having done quite a few now I'm pretty handy at it now.
It's not "hard" but it's a pain to do.
You don't need to remove the t-bodies or the intake the tank will come out without.
Loop one oil line to the other t-body, decide how you want to deal with lube or not, zerk or not, and from there it's pretty easy.
I was thinking about going wheeling tomorrow, but if you're by chance working on it, I'd be happy to swing down... gotta do something to occupy my time since I'm not sledding!
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Kaleb is alwsys willing to help. I wish I lived close when I need help
keep us posted on how you bigbore works for ya as well...!!!!
Bah... you're just a FEW minutes up 80 right???
Kaleb,
That would be awesome. However, got to get some stuff done at the gym tomorrow. Next weekend is the target weekend. I am hoping to have my cylinders back by then and can reassemble my entire sled. Love to have the help from you. Ill keep you in the loop for sure. I found the thread regarding the oil delete, but it didnt address the direct questions that I had.
Bah... you're just a FEW minutes up 80 right???
Yeah. Just a few
We've got a sitter for sun & are planning on riding, if we can work on it on sat I'd be happy to swing over!
