TPS.....more things to check on your new Pro....
- Thread starter AKSNOWRIDER
- Start date
A
I went a different route and used an ATX Computer Power Supply to get my 5.5vdc and 12 vdc.....
Easy DIY Power Supply instructions on the web, basically all you have to do for a switch mode Power Supply is jump two specific pins on the main 24 Pin Block, outside of that it's elementary...make a harness, match polarity, and go.
I also used both a digital and analog mulitmeter........
Would it be better to check throttle cable slack before or after adjusting the TPS?
Easy DIY Power Supply instructions on the web, basically all you have to do for a switch mode Power Supply is jump two specific pins on the main 24 Pin Block, outside of that it's elementary...make a harness, match polarity, and go.
I also used both a digital and analog mulitmeter........
Would it be better to check throttle cable slack before or after adjusting the TPS?
49er. you need 4.9 to 5.0 volts on the reference line..not 5.5 thats to much and throws all settings off, but yes I know several people who use a quality computer power supply for setting them..I built my tester years agoand I need one that is usable when I dont have 110 around..?And yes you should alwaays check throttle cable freeplay after setting the tps....
A
Damn, oops, it is actually 5.0 vdc output on the power supply, I added the .5 amp to that figure that I remembered from that circuit.
5.0vdc @ .5amp
I never considered using something like that outside of my garage, good idea having it transportable.
5.0vdc @ .5amp
I never considered using something like that outside of my garage, good idea having it transportable.
Ak, care to recommend a multi reader that will work for this and not break the bank?
I would highly recommend a fluke meter..I have yet to see anyone build a better more accurate, durable meter..they do make inexpensive models compared to the one I use...if it was a tool I would only use once in a while(and once you get a good meter and start learning to use it, you will be amazed how much more it will be used and how much easier it becomes to diagnoise issues) I think I would be looking at the fluke 113 which is a basic meter but has all the functions needed to do most electrical diagnosis..You can expect to hand any fluke meter down to your kids when you no longer need it..they are just that good...here is the fluke store (if you hunt around you can find some smoking deals on fluke meters too) ...
this shows a comparison of the 113 vrs the 88 I use(mine I bought as a kit and then added some other things to it)
http://www.myflukestore.com/c77/multimeters.php?compare=1&t=category
here is a used one(113) on e-bay(looks brand new) for 84.00..pretty hard to beat...
http://compare.ebay.com/like/230663730407?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
and here is a 88 kit(these run almost 800 new) for 489.00
http://compare.ebay.com/like/330509336782?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
http://compare.ebay.com/like/230663730407?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
and here is a 88 kit(these run almost 800 new) for 489.00
http://compare.ebay.com/like/330509336782?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
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Thanks for the info, meters are new to me so it's hard to justify dropping a lot of money but the 113 is reasonable. Would I need an extras for basic stuff like setting tps for now with that? I would assume not. Might make an offer on it I suppose.
only thing you might want would be the backprobes..they work really good for pushing into the back of connectors(without doing damage)...other wise that basic setup should do ya good..if you go to the fluke site, they have some good reads on proper operation and testing methods....
T
oops did screw on the wrong screw, I was backing off the idle screw but i wasnt.. it was not on the same spot as older 800cfi.. didnt even think about until i looked at the throttle cable..
I turned on the screw infront of the airbox, in the center of the throttlebodys. its a 8 mm lock nut on it, anyone know whitch one i mean? what does that screw? it seems that the sync screw is just below it..I havent removed my airbox jet.. what have i messed up with?
Sorry for my bad english!
I turned on the screw infront of the airbox, in the center of the throttlebodys. its a 8 mm lock nut on it, anyone know whitch one i mean? what does that screw? it seems that the sync screw is just below it..I havent removed my airbox jet.. what have i messed up with?
Sorry for my bad english!
AK, MH, or anyone else...has anyone verified the voltages for base and idle on the 11-12' DC-CFi2 engines? My base voltage on a 2012 was 0.74, same as AK's so it has me wondering...
B2.. Where did you get .74 Volts at??
Where did you take the reading from??
thanks
my idle volts at tps.. is like .913
Where did you take the reading from??
thanks
my idle volts at tps.. is like .913
With a TPS tester plugged into the TPS, and the idle adjustment screw backed all the way off, mine measured .74 volts. You adjust this (base) voltage by actually moving the TPS sensor, then adjust the idle screw to set the idle voltage (.93-.95)...these are the voltages (base and idle) I would like someone to verify.
Base voltage should be .690-.710. Make sure you have the throttle cable disconnected as well as the idle set screw backed off.
F
when the base voltage is higher, is that richer?
yes....but be very very careful trying to use the tps to adjust mixtures..not a good idea...TPS settings seem to have a more pronounced effect from idle to 1/2 throttle then they do from 1/2 to full throttle...
you can use an inexpensive power supply for a computer..the too run a dedicated 5 volt reference volt....
A
I thought that when I read the original post that you got your schematics from, the author had specified using both a digital and analog meter.
One for one setting, one for the other.
IIRC the use of the el-cheapo analog meter was to see how smoothly the needle sweeped, this would show any dead spots between the wiper and the bands on the potentiometer (TPS) that is being tuned. This would be hard to see with a digital MM only.
Kinda' along the same lines as the old needle tachs. being more easy to read than the new Digital Tach. on the MFD's that roll numbers by so fast, it is hard to read where your at.
Thoughts?
One for one setting, one for the other.
IIRC the use of the el-cheapo analog meter was to see how smoothly the needle sweeped, this would show any dead spots between the wiper and the bands on the potentiometer (TPS) that is being tuned. This would be hard to see with a digital MM only.
Kinda' along the same lines as the old needle tachs. being more easy to read than the new Digital Tach. on the MFD's that roll numbers by so fast, it is hard to read where your at.
Thoughts?
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