Got a clutch issue? Need Help

IShartd · Jan 4, 2009

Heres the deal, spider came apart on me, think due in part to a bad roller shaving my 70g weight down to a 64g weight and unbalancing the whole thing and streesing the cast. So new clutch is needed, should I go OEM, or try aftermarket? Its a 33 MM 6 tower off of a 06 M7.

Next issue Im having is how the hell am I to get the other half of the clutch off? Ive put heat to it for a while, dont have a big torch, using smaller map gas torch, heated for about 5 minutes, 2 seperate times and nothing, dont wanna beat on it to much, but what other option do i have?

SaberKitty · Jan 4, 2009

A regular AC clutch puller should work to pop the clutch off.

If it were me, I'd find a new uncalibrated stock 8.5" for around $200.

IShartd · Jan 4, 2009

If you look at the photo, the threaded portion of the clutch is gone, there nothing for the puller to grab.

runhard · Jan 4, 2009

Be careful heating that stub on the crank !!

First of all the only way to get that steel shaft off of your crank is to cut it
off and be careful not to hurt your crankshaft ! when you use heat on that shaft if you got it to hot you probably melted your crank seal and your motor will have to come completely apart to be fixed with a new seal.

IShartd · Jan 4, 2009

runhard said:
First of all the only way to get that steel shaft off of your crank is to cut it
off and be careful not to hurt your crankshaft ! when you use heat on that shaft if you got it to hot you probably melted your crank seal and your motor will have to come completely apart to be fixed with a new seal.

Funny, I know a certified Arctic Cat mechanic who just heated one off a friends sled, seems fine, what do you suggest it be cut off with, obviously not heat, cutting wheel perhaps, would that work?

catunder · Jan 4, 2009

Cutting wheel might work but I have taken one off a few years ago with a 4" grinder. Go a little at a time and keep a cool wet rag behind the sheave and over the seal to prevent damage. Good luck:beer;

wysnow · Jan 4, 2009

ya that clutch had a prodlem like that. at togwotee we had to heat it up with a torch and beat it off. u have to be care that u dont get the crank to hot or it will mealt your crank seal. also you can cut it of with a cut off wheel then take a hammer and a chizle and break it off. you will want to go with the 9 tower clutch. we had better luck with the then the old clutches

m8magicandmystery · Jan 4, 2009

well i would weld a big nut one the end of that stub or partly in it...keep stub cool with wet rags,,and have ground close to end..(to not get arcing in crank brgs)..then just run long threaded bolt through nut and pop that baby off....and cutting wheel on grinder will work sweet...and you cold fill cavity with water after nut was welded and plug nut with short bolt and park sled outside for the night and let freeze...your clutch will be lying in the bottom of yer sled...if ya kep stuff cool don;t worry about seal

spring snow hero · Jan 4, 2009

either a cutting wheel or grinding wheel to cut a relief groove or two, if that is not enough...run a garden hose on the crank by the seal to keep the crank cool, get the clutch, or whats left of it hot and it should pop off

I would be really suspect of the soundness of the crank after that mess. Iwould sure check the runout before you make a trip.

m8magicandmystery · Jan 4, 2009

or weld plate over end of stub and install grease zerk and hydrolic it off...don;t sweat it...easy easy fix

CCRider · Jan 4, 2009

Mine broke like that to

nly it snapped right next to the sheeve.We tried using heat etc. Ended up breaking it in half while tring to pry it off after heating it. Not a fun job...good luck.

IShartd · Jan 4, 2009

Thanks for the info, not to worried about the Seal, didnt apply heat to the crank itself, and like I said didnt go at it with a big old acetolyne torch, anyway have a spare bottom end to poach from in the worst case. Gonna get after it with a cutting wheel on the grinder. Do you think I could make a few cuts to the shaft and get after it with the shizzle, or cut the shaft and go all the way up the sheave an try and stretch it apart, would like to keep couterweight intact if possible.

SLEDIOT · Jan 4, 2009

Do a relief cut near the center of that sheave it will take the stress off the shaft. You wont even need to cut the whole sheave.. Worse case scenario hammer a chisel into the relief cut and it will pop off. Seen this done. About 5 mins work........

spring snow hero · Jan 5, 2009

if you weld on it be dang sure you have a relief cut in it. that thing will shrink and never come off.

SLEDIOT · Jan 5, 2009

I wouldnt weld on it, way to many other options. Welding can produce alot of heat which is bad fo yer seals. And welding can affect bearings in yer crank. Nothing like a magnetized bearing thats lost its hardness from welding.......

KMMAC · Jan 5, 2009

Had a bearing race seize in a ford axle tube, tried a puller didn't work. I had a pro grade die grinder and used a small bit ground as small a groove as possible until it was thin and used a flat chisel and it popped right out.

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Got a clutch issue? Need Help

IShartd

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SaberKitty

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IShartd

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runhard

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IShartd

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catunder

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wysnow

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m8magicandmystery

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spring snow hero

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CCRider

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spring snow hero

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