2001 RMK 700 Idles, but won't run

JDUB39 · Dec 26, 2012

Howdy everybody!

I picked up this 2001 RMK 700 a couple months ago from a guy that had a small snowmobile shop... He told me he had just serviced it and it was good to go...I rode it a solid 2 days with NO issues, on the third day (didn't touch it, still has 3/4 tank from previous day) I took it out of my truck (starts first pull) and it would idle but then cuts out and dies if the throttle is touched just the slightest bit (back fires, pops, crackles, the whole nine, then dies)...

So after cleaning the carbs and replacing the spark plugs, I took it into the shop... They put 300 & 320 jets in it, set the needle to #2 position, 2.5 turns out of the A/F crew... 110 PSI on the compression (fairly low, but should still run) When I picked it up, it seemed to run ok (revving it in the parking lot)~ 5,000 ft, ~ 40 degrees...

Got it up to Vail Pass ~10,600, 20 degrees... Started it up first pull (as always) but still would only idle... Went and bought 340 and 360 jets, put the 320 and 340 jets in, drove it 100 yards, died.

Put the 340 and 360 jets in it, started it, wouldn't move... Put a rag over the airbox and the choke on, limped it back to the truck...

Then I started it, with it idling, sprayed carb cleaner all over the reed cages, the crank seals on both sides, EVERYWHERE, with no luck finding an air leak...

I'm stumped... My next step is to take all the fuel lines and pump off and check for a blockage... (I've never dabbled with this kind of fuel pump setup, so I'm open to suggestions)

Anyone have any input? Other areas for me to check?

retiredpop · Dec 26, 2012

Sounds like you may have a faulty throttle safety switch or it is not set properly.

JDUB39 · Dec 26, 2012

retiredpop said:
Sounds like you may have a faulty throttle safety switch or it is not set properly.

OK, I looked into that a little further with no luck on finding the proper procedure on set up or testing?

Anyone have a service manual or input?

Thanks!

Jay · Dec 26, 2012

What main jets were in it originally? At 10,000' that sounds like pretty big jets. Check your throttle cables, did one pop off a carb slide? Try to determine which cylinder is not firing, pull each spark plug wire off one at a time and see which one kills the engine or both? If you have compression and you have spark then it's fuel related, throttle cables, carbs, jetting etc. Also 2 1/2 turns doesn't sound right either, is it an air screw or a fuel screw? no such thing as an air fuel screw.

JDUB39 · Dec 26, 2012

Jay said:
What main jets were in it originally? At 10,000' that sounds like pretty big jets. Check your throttle cables, did one pop off a carb slide? Try to determine which cylinder is not firing, pull each spark plug wire off one at a time and see which one kills the engine or both? If you have compression and you have spark then it's fuel related, throttle cables, carbs, jetting etc. Also 2 1/2 turns doesn't sound right either, is it an air screw or a fuel screw? no such thing as an air fuel screw.

It had 280/300... I realize that the 340/360 are big, just thought I'd give it a shot... Both carb slides are functioning properly, cables have slack in them...

Going to verify the TPS is adjusted properly (4 volts at WOT) and tear apart the fuel pump and see what I find after work tonight...

Jay · Dec 26, 2012

If you unplug the tps it puts it into a full advance on your ign. timing. It might need adjusting, certainly not uncommon, but if you just unplug it, it will give you an idea if it's causing problems. The '01 700 rack mikunis had air jets located in the throat of the carbs, .09 is stock, and a fuel screw on the side. I don't know what the fuel screw should be but 2.5 sounds like to much to me. If it's putting to much fuel into it try the screws at 1 turn out and see what that does. The air jet may be to rich for your elevation, you might have to go to a larger # like a 1.0, bigger # means more air, leaning it out. If it liked 280/300 I'd go back to them, check what you have for air screws and see where the fuel screw should be. Check your throttle cable adjustment, like retired pop says if there is to much slack it might be causing your throttle overide switch to be cutting the ignition. Fuel pumps rarely screw up, but nothing is impossible. Be very carefull leaning out your engine, remember just cause some stranger gives you advice on the internet it doesn't mean he knows what he's talking about. :face-icon-small-ton

JDUB39 · Dec 26, 2012

Jay said:
If you unplug the tps it puts it into a full advance on your ign. timing. It might need adjusting, certainly not uncommon, but if you just unplug it, it will give you an idea if it's causing problems. The '01 700 rack mikunis had air jets located in the throat of the carbs, .09 is stock, and a fuel screw on the side. I don't know what the fuel screw should be but 2.5 sounds like to much to me. If it's putting to much fuel into it try the screws at 1 turn out and see what that does. The air jet may be to rich for your elevation, you might have to go to a larger # like a 1.0, bigger # means more air, leaning it out. If it liked 280/300 I'd go back to them, check what you have for air screws and see where the fuel screw should be. Check your throttle cable adjustment, like retired pop says if there is to much slack it might be causing your throttle overide switch to be cutting the ignition. Fuel pumps rarely screw up, but nothing is impossible. Be very carefull leaning out your engine, remember just cause some stranger gives you advice on the internet it doesn't mean he knows what he's talking about. :face-icon-small-ton

Thanks for the continued support... Ill try unplugging the TPS tonight. Im not going to mess with the jetting any more than I have, since it DID run fine at one point...

Stay tuned! :yo:

retiredpop · Dec 26, 2012

JDUB39 said:
OK, I looked into that a little further with no luck on finding the proper procedure on set up or testing?

Anyone have a service manual or input?

Thanks!

First of all ensure you have .010" to .030" gap between the throttle block and the throttle lever when the throttle is in an idle position. This clearance is controlled by the throttle cable adjuster sleeve and the idle speed screw. With the idle screw set for the proper rpm adjust the cable adjuster to obtain a gap of .020". If this is not set properly the two switches within the throttle block won't engage at the proper time and will kill the engine.

If you have the proper gap and there is still a problem you can check the switch operations by unplugging the switch harness at the throttle block from the main wire harness. Plug in your multimeter (set to ohms) to the two switch wires. With the kill switch in the run position you should read an open circuit. As the throttle lever is moved from idle to off idle the meter should continue to read an open condition. If it fluctuates and the throttle lever to throttle block clearance is adjusted properly then the switch assembly is bad.

JDUB39 · Dec 27, 2012

retiredpop said:
First of all ensure you have .010" to .030" gap between the throttle block and the throttle lever when the throttle is in an idle position. This clearance is controlled by the throttle cable adjuster sleeve and the idle speed screw. With the idle screw set for the proper rpm adjust the cable adjuster to obtain a gap of .020". If this is not set properly the two switches within the throttle block won't engage at the proper time and will kill the engine.

If you have the proper gap and there is still a problem you can check the switch operations by unplugging the switch harness at the throttle block from the main wire harness. Plug in your multimeter (set to ohms) to the two switch wires. With the kill switch in the run position you should read an open circuit. As the throttle lever is moved from idle to off idle the meter should continue to read an open condition. If it fluctuates and the throttle lever to throttle block clearance is adjusted properly then the switch assembly is bad.

Awesome, thanks retiredpop! I'll look into that tonight...

Tinkered with it a bit last night. Tested the TPS, which was at 4.3v @ WOT... I brought it back down to the spec'd 4.0v... (it was too late to start up and test last night)

I'll test the TSS this evening... Stay tuned, thanks for the procedure. Seems as though everyone beats around the bush when it comes to the TSS topic, but not you! :hail:

JDUB39 · Dec 27, 2012

Anyone know the proper resistance the temp sensor should be? Anyone have a running 2000-2005 RMK 700/800 that could check theirs for me?

JDUB39 · Dec 27, 2012

I checked the temp sensor which read 5.6k @ ~ 20 degrees (i'm working in my non-heated garage)

I started it up and let it run for a min or so, and checked the resistance which came up to 1.4k... Which makes sense, so I am going to cross out the coolant temp sensor variable in this fiasco.

Took the fuel line off of the pickup line inside of the tank, drained the gas, pulled out the pick up tube and found nothing, no dirt, no blockage, blew through it with my mouth...

Took apart the fuel pump and found one of the small diaphragms has some form of crease in it...

Anyone think that this small crease could have such a catastrophic effect on this machine?

Im hoping to track down a rebuild kit tomorrow, I called around before all the shops closed for the night, with no luck.

(mean while the mountains got another 12+ inches today... :face-icon-small-con )

WyoUltra · Dec 27, 2012

You might check your impulse line, mine was pinched and cracked and it would idle till it was warm then die.

gdn · Dec 29, 2012

I had the same problem on a 2000 800 RMK and it turned out to be the temp sensor. Ran fine one day, then nothing but idle the next morning. Changed the temp sensor and it was fine.

JDUB39 · Jan 2, 2013

WyoUltra said:
You might check your impulse line, mine was pinched and cracked and it would idle till it was warm then die.

Checked that... 100% functional.

Verfied the TPS, TSS and CTS are working properly yesterday.

Waiting on the fuel pump rebuild kit for now...

Stay tuned.

JDUB39 · Jan 4, 2013

I rebuilt the fuel pump lastnight and it runs like a raped ape once again...

Thanks for everyones help!

resent: :rockon:

retiredpop · Jan 4, 2013

:thumb: Good to hear.

JDUB39 · Jan 9, 2013

Scratch that.

Unloaded it (10,600, 20 degrees), let it warm up, took it for a 10 minute spin, no issues, brought it back to the truck, loaded my gear, went about .25 miles and it acted up again.

Let it sit ~ 2 minutes, started it, same issue... Disconnected the black/white wire(to delete all safety controls and ignition switch), started it, same issue. Started it again, ran like a raped ape. Tons of power, brought front end off the ground, then acted up again. Towed it back to the truck, loaded it up.

This issue is so inconsistent, it makes my brain hurt.

Went through the entire wiring harness last night, checked all specs per service manual schematics (coil resistance, stator resistance, voltage regulator has 10-15 Vac, checked all chassis grounds) pulled the stator cover off, checked the pick up coil for corrosion, sanded the magnets (they weren't corroded, just thought I'd do it while I was in there.) Verified all the wires going to the CDI connector had proper continuity/resistance... Checked the Coolant warning bulb, works 100%...

Verified the oil/water pump belt was functional.

Started it, jacked up the rear end, let it warm up, revved it, let it idle, held it at 1/4 throttle for a bit, couldn't make it act up for the 20 minutes I had it running. (~5,000 feet, 40 degrees)

Jay · Jan 9, 2013

Change out your cdi

Nychaze · Jan 10, 2013

Switching out the CDI this weekend. Fingers crossed.

Nychaze · Jan 15, 2013

CDI switched out. Running great. Thanks for the help!

2001 RMK 700 Idles, but won't run

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