Silber Install Tips

gmustangt · Nov 16, 2011

Well with a bunch of you recieving your silber kits soon, id figure i would share some tips i came across to save you the headache..Im the kind of guy that learns the hard way lol after 2 hrs i finally had the boot on:frusty:

1. The oil linkage rod does NOT seat beetween the boot and the fuel rail on the boot, its goes in the stock position beetween the boot and the TB.

2. You are going to want to take your control box and plug in the secondary injectors BEFORE you bolt the boot on, else have fun getting at them later.

3. You will have to lift the oil linkage rod up and rest it on the mag side secondary injector Before you bolt the boot on, becasue once the secondary injectors are plugged in you wont be able to get the linkage rod past the MAG side secondary injector.

*Also a good idea to zip tie the injector wires to the billet boot fuel rail so they dont rub on the bulkhead.

I had to take the boot off twice :doh: , so id figure id save you guys the headache.

EDIT MORE INFO:

4. You will want to hook up all hoses on the billet boot before you put the TB back on. this includes BOV, solenoid, boost guage.

5. the airbox bolt on the clutch side as well as the washer and spacer must be through the airbox tab before you mount the airbox to the TB, else the bolt wont fit through.

The450kid · Nov 16, 2011

Lets see some pics... I would like to see the intake as i am waiting on mine for my 2011 kit. I d like to update it sooner then later...thanks!

TurboMatt · Nov 16, 2011

PICS!!!!!

gmustangt · Nov 16, 2011

Whats everyone want to see pics of.. pics have been posted in the other thread there for a while now.
The only thing not pictured is the intake, the intake is just a piece of flex tube. running from the turbo up in to the intake plenum.

The450kid · Nov 16, 2011

how is it routed to reduce the amount of bends is what i am curious of??? I want the most flow possible thats all. Thanks again!

friscospices.com · Nov 16, 2011

Also I might ad that you should read all of the instructions before installing. Most importantly before you put on the air box on the throttle boddis make sure you have all the hoses hooked up and routed. Follow the hint to leave the intake hose on the turbo and route it out around the air box. You will want to be sure to remove the tank and do the fuel line hook ups later in the install, you will need to go to auto parts store to get the kit to remove the hoses. Tomorrow i will show how I did my gauges easy and out of the way and you can see them awesome. I think it can be done in 6 hours but I would suggest 10 to 12 to be sure you get everything to fit and not have issues later I also cleaned up a bunch of wiring. Also I had to cut down the charge tube and make it a bit shorter:face-icon-small-hap

gmustangt · Nov 16, 2011

friscospices.com said:
Also I might ad that you should read all of the instructions before installing. Most importantly before you put on the air box on the throttle boddis make sure you have all the hoses hooked up and routed. Follow the hint to leave the intake hose on the turbo and route it out around the air box. You will want to be sure to remove the tank and do the fuel line hook ups later in the install, you will need to go to auto parts store to get the kit to remove the hoses. Tomorrow i will show how I did my gauges easy and out of the way and you can see them awesome. I think it can be done in 6 hours but I would suggest 10 to 12 to be sure you get everything to fit and not have issues later I also cleaned up a bunch of wiring. Also I had to cut down the charge tube and make it a bit shorter:face-icon-small-hap

X2

You want to have everything hooked up to the billet boot before you put the tb's on. Solonoid, Boost, and the 2 B.O.V hoses.

- Also you will want to put the airbox bolt on the clutch side through before you mount the airbox, it wont go through due to the angle once the air box is on the TB's.

SSABMUD · Nov 17, 2011

I would also pull out the bottom injectors and look at the o-rings. I had two cut o-rings last year and found out after I had the sled running with fuel pouring out the bottom. Not fun doing the complete kit install all over again.

gmustangt · Nov 17, 2011

FYI

The boot has a slightly different design from previous years,

The washer goes between the spacer and the airbox, then the o ring and bolt go on the engine side, as in the picture.

gmustangt · Nov 17, 2011

The450kid said:
how is it routed to reduce the amount of bends is what i am curious of??? I want the most flow possible thats all. Thanks again!

Youd have to talk to justin on that one, due to the fact the 11 & 12 turbos are mounted in different spots.

friscospices.com · Nov 17, 2011

gmustangt said:
FYI

The boot has a slightly different design from previous years,

The washer goes between the spacer and the airbox, then the o ring and bolt go on the engine side, as in the picture.

Well too late now, I dont think it would be a big deal if I just left mine. I figured the washer was next to the oring to you would not twist the oring when you seat throttle body.

Is the 3rd port on the soloniod used? no

Liv4turbo · Nov 17, 2011

fuse

the fuse is on the clutch side it has a black cover on it just above the clutch cover.

the 3rd port is not used make sure that the hoses are on right the control box plugs into the single port side

gmustangt · Nov 17, 2011

Bryan

When installing the new twin trax helix how do you know which angle you are installing?

Liv4turbo · Nov 17, 2011

here you go

Start with the numbers that you wont pointed at the rollers when it settles in the numbers will be more tords the back of the rollers

gmustangt · Nov 17, 2011

Liv4turbo said:
Start with the numbers that you wont pointed at the rollers when it settles in the numbers will be more tords the back of the rollers

Would it end up that the 44-48-36er is facing the "x" on the secondary?

friscospices.com · Nov 17, 2011

If you line up the 40-48 with the rollers you have that cut, if you line up the 44-48 you will have thet angle. The 40 start will allow a faster rev from the start but has a bit more belt heat, and the 44 grips better and loads the motor harder. Got mine fired up a few minutes ago, sounds about the same as when I had a mbrp can on it. Suppose to leave tonight for the snowies but one guy had some BS come up so now we wont leave until Sat night or Sun morning. My boost gauge reads vac pressure on the stand. Reved it up some but still reads like minus 4 psi I am at 900 ft here so I only have the control knob turned out 3 turns. Do we need to bleed the coolant system? If so how do we do it. On the ski doo we just jacked up the front end and ran it through a few heat cycles.

jsandgren10 · Nov 17, 2011

Can you show pics of your gauge placement? You said you had a good spot for them.

Thanks.

friscospices.com · Nov 17, 2011

I used what Justin sent but added a sheet of aluminum to cover the wires and mounted the cluster on the two hood mount screws near where the handlebar wires go into the hood. Does not move with the handle bars.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/album.php?albumid=2830&pictureid=24468
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/album.php?albumid=2830&pictureid=24467
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/album.php?albumid=2830&pictureid=24466

jsandgren10 · Nov 17, 2011

Nice, I like the setup. I also like the gauge lifter you got. Which one did you get? I wonder if you could make a plate for the gauges to sit just below the gauge lifter?

I also see you cut to route wires for the control box, looks cleaner than draping them over the console from the handlebar opening.

powerfuldodge · Nov 17, 2011

jsandgren10 said:
Nice, I like the setup. I also like the gauge lifter you got. Which one did you get? I wonder if you could make a plate for the gauges to sit just below the gauge lifter?

I also see you cut to route wires for the control box, looks cleaner than draping them over the console from the handlebar opening.

where are you seeing the pic ??

i found the pics

Silber Install Tips

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