I pull a 27 ft inline enclosed and we sometimes have a bit of sway when it gets windy and the roads are icy. I think our weighting as far as balance is pretty good. Ive been told a hitch would help but dont know alot. Found a good deal on a curt 1000 - 10000 # WD and Sway hitch but want to know more first. I kinda understand how the WD hitch part works but not the sway part. Thanks for any info.
Give me a crash course in weight distribution and sway control hitches.
- Thread starter ndmtnsledder
- Start date
A
I pull a 27 foot enclosed haulmark with a 1/2 ton and it was a bear until I got a hitch. It really made a difference. Not sure how it all works.
Sway control hitches are basically a shock absorber thrown in between your truck and trailer. I tow with an 05 Dodge 3/4 ton with none of these devices and do not have any problems with a 26ft Rance(Aluminum) w/ 5 sleds. If you are not distributing weight right in the trailer itself leads to these problems also.
D
The sway bar is like bilko said, a shock absorger or sometimes a friction bar that hooks to the side of the ball and to the side of the tounge. There are load leveler hitches, they put lifting leverage at the ball hitch and can be adjusted to lift the hitch to aid in carrying the load. A lot of sway is caused by having your hitch too low. You want to look at your rig on the level and make sure the trailer is not tipped down in the front. You should be just a little high in the front. By a little I mean only 2 or 3 inches high when fully loaded. V-nose trailers do have a tendency to push you around and a sway bar does help.
IMO a weight ditributing hitch is worth it's weight in gold. Even with proper distribution of weight in a trailer, the vehicle is left out of the picture. A wd hitch will allow more weight to be put on the front of the tow vehicle for better handling, braking all around as well as sway control. For serious control, skip the sway control and get a wd hitch.
Thanks for the info. Sounds like I'll pick up the WD hitch next time I'm in town if they still have it. I think our weighting is pretty good but were also really limited the sleds only fit in the trailer one way to get all 4 in so I think this is the best solution. In a way the studded tires sounds about like what we should have. Seems like every time we get to western ND we catch patchy ice and 30-40mph cross winds makes for some white knucle driving and I'm used to driving semi most of the winter. I've pulled it some in the summer with my 1/2 ton ford and once in the winter with a cousins 1/2 ton dodge and alot with a friends 3/4 ton chevy. This winter I'll be pulling with my 08 F250 which should help over the 1/2 ton at least also. Only time the sway is bad is with the cross wind so in the end there probably isn't a lot you can do about it.
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As a side question
From the looks of it these WD and Sway hitch setups would limit the turning radus of the trailer. Meaning you cant jacknife it tight when turning around .
I have to turn around in some tight spots sometimes
yes........... no ................
this is a intresting topic thanks
From the looks of it these WD and Sway hitch setups would limit the turning radus of the trailer. Meaning you cant jacknife it tight when turning around .
I have to turn around in some tight spots sometimes
yes........... no ................
this is a intresting topic thanks
If you have to turn around in a tight spot, its takes seconds to release the WD bars, thrown them in the back of the truck and turn. Like it was said before, worth its weight in gold.
B
We use a WD hitch on our 24 ft travel trailer, and yes it does limit the turning on it a bit. But like was said it takes a min or 2 to pull the bars off, throw them in the back and your good to go.
Guys towing enclosed trailers with 1/2 should have these IMO. They really help to put weight back on the front end of the pickup. Also the sway bar is awesome, they will cut down, not emliminate, the trailer sway in the wind. Anything a guy can do to limit sway and goofy balance on winter roads is a good idea IMO.
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I am buying my first enclosed 21' ish foot triton this year. Dragging it around with a 3/4 ton dodge diesel.
Is there something I should look into ?
Is there something I should look into ?
Mine didn't affect the turning noticeably but the hitch was longer than a std. receiver and had a narrow tow vehicle. I'm sure that some are going to be more affected than others.
S
Lol didn't even think of it when I wrote that "crash course". One last question then is any WD significantly better then another or are they all about the same. The one I found a close out deal on is a Curt has the bars with brackets that go on the hitch and some short chains to go from the bar to the brackets.
I personally like the t-bar designs ( not the L shape ) seems like people that have used the L have lost some of the bars.
I sell the a WD hitch with 1000 or 1200 lb bars includes everything BUT a ball
(adjustable mount, bars, chains, hitch brackets & pipe handle @ $265)
for your info, of course that is picked up at my shop.
I reccomend install the WD hitch first, then if more sway control is needed add the sway bar! of course this is just my opinion
I sell the a WD hitch with 1000 or 1200 lb bars includes everything BUT a ball
(adjustable mount, bars, chains, hitch brackets & pipe handle @ $265)
for your info, of course that is picked up at my shop.
I reccomend install the WD hitch first, then if more sway control is needed add the sway bar! of course this is just my opinion
Been doing some research online and talked to a local dealer about sway controls. From what I'm understanding the standard type you have a shock absorber looking part you have to remove when you back up or make really sharp turns.
I found another type that uses some sort of cam on top of the chains at the end of the bars but haven't been able to find alot of info on it other then its a bit more automatic.
Another which I like the sound of the most sounds like an all in one uses a bracket instead of a chain at the end of the torsion bars. The bracket puts resistance on the torsion bars preventing them from sliding freely in and out as you turn. The resistance is low enough to allow you to turn but high enough to help prevent swaying.
What is everyone else using for setups what company type ect.
I found another type that uses some sort of cam on top of the chains at the end of the bars but haven't been able to find alot of info on it other then its a bit more automatic.
Another which I like the sound of the most sounds like an all in one uses a bracket instead of a chain at the end of the torsion bars. The bracket puts resistance on the torsion bars preventing them from sliding freely in and out as you turn. The resistance is low enough to allow you to turn but high enough to help prevent swaying.
What is everyone else using for setups what company type ect.
