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7 tooth driver kit

shadow conspiracy

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Nov 26, 2007
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Quesnel, B.C.
I just purchased the 7 tooth driver kit for my sled. Came with an anti-stab kit, new helix(straight 38*), clutch weights, springs. Anyone have any experience with the clutching that comes with the kit? Like the sled better that it is geared down? My sled has the camo 3" and boondocker box, Full 2.5" exhaust.
 

JustBoostIt

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You'll love the 7t with the 3". Makes it feel even a little better than the stock gearing and stock track.

I experimented with different helixes and clutch set ups in 2012. I had also tried various settings on a straight Shockwave helix. My conclusion with anything straight was it was always a compromise. Too shallow had nice snappy (for a 4s) bottom end for good boondocking characteristics, but it lacked the pull on top end. Conversely, too steep of a helix made the bottom end doggy (ie. 42 degree start on old factory helix) and terrible to boondock with.

I have only used one helix style since 2012 and that is something with a shallow start with a steeper finish, which is where you are making boost and can pull a steeper angle. 38/46 or 38/44 is all I have ever done, so I like 38 to start but it doesn't produce the load and quick acceleration I like to feel when the boost comes on. The huge torque of the 1100 pulls a steeper finish than you might be used to on a 2s.

Just my opinion of course but I have never had anyone that didn't think that wasn't a major improvement. I would take the straight 38 over the 42/40 but I think there is still better choices.
 

shadow conspiracy

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forgot to mention im currently using a 38/44 helix. Rpms are good for most conditions. little low when the snows heavy. What about clutch springs. The kit come with some but I believe they're the same as the original ones that came on the sled? I have an orange secondary spring from the m series I was gonna give a try.
 

JustBoostIt

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I use the stock Cat orange in the secondary with that helix so I would put that in. To get your rpms up with the heavy snow doesn't have anything to do with the helix really, it's your clutch weights. You can use various brands of adjustable weights, I only use Cutler turbo mags. With your mods you would use the 80-90g set and I would guess around 82-83 grams at 4-6000 ft, more weight with lower elevation as what you make for boost is limited to what air the turbo can compress....and it is easier for it to do that at lower elevations. Heavier snow would drop a couple grams to maintain your rpm.

An Evo reflash will make more power at elevation because Evo can manipulate timing, usually it needs a couple grams more weight than a BD 2.0. FYI every weight acts differently because of the arm profile. The Cutler TM weights run about 5g lighter for the same rpm, ie. 85g stock is like 80g in a Cutler TM.

I use the 38/44 or 38/46 helixes from 177hp to 325hp. It's just the weight in the primary that changes.
 

Oinakka

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Oct 16, 2008
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You think a m7000 190hp turbo, would work best with a inverse helix? I was thinking of a straight helix since you got almost zero lag with stock compression, but an inverse maybe is good for slow stuff in the woods?

Sent from my GT-I9295 using Tapatalk
 
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