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Primary clutch sacked out... again

R
Feb 29, 2016
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341
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So in addition to needing a new motor at under 1000 miles, my primary had a bad roller about the same time. I brought the sled back right after the motor job and they told me it was the clutch and wanted ~$650 for the job. I just do not think that is right. I bought an expensive machine new from a dealer and paid extra for the promotional extended warranty. I did the work myself for the $250 worth of parts it looked like it needed. I thought I was very careful but just 200 miles later it is apparently in need of the same $650 rebuild, and that is the claimed reason the sled hasn't made over 7200 rpm since the new motor went in.


I took it back to them this time thinking I had the clutch fixed including a new spring and belt. The dealer told Polaris that I had worked on it so definitely no coverage. Again, what a crock. Because I don't feel like being raped by your dealer I do some work and now for sure it is my fault? I have been successfully wrenching on things with motors for decades. I think it should have been done the first time because it wore out prematurely. Are we now accepting 1000 mile motors and clutches that crap out as wear items? that is a pretty pathetic standard for a $13,000 machine with an extended warranty that Polaris can't even find? The dealer says they don't know who the warranty company is either? Well who paid for the motor job guys? Neither side knows?


It is just a freak show. I told them to button it up I would come and get it and make other arrangements. I go out of my way to spend money at this dealer. I recommended my buddy to them who bought a new sled from them. This is how they helped me out. I get it, by the book right, fair enough. Do not expect me back nor should you expect positive referrals.


So with a quick search I found a new primary for $483. All is should need is the spring and the weights fitted right?. I could get new weights if needed, and the spring only has 200 miles on it. Any tips or tricks to getting a new one set up and working?


I have ZERO faith that this will restore the sleds performance. Pretty sure it has several other issues yet unresolved. It needs done though, obviously. The dealer made no offer the go with the new one for less, probably couldn't get full mark up that way I guess.


Seems like the dealer and the manufacturer have both forgotten that the money only comes from the customer. Customers have lots of other choices in the market. Lose one or two and you will be fine. Make a habit if this like I think Polaris has and best of luck.


Anyway, end rant. Tips on fixing my clutch issue?
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
1,515
810
113
Elko, NV.
You have to be very careful when replacing primary rollers. New pins and rollers are the way to go and need to be installed without scuffing the contact surface of the inside of the roller. New thrust washers should also be installed, and again installed with care, do not pinch the thrust washer with the pin when you press it in. The spider buttons should be shimmed or shaved to have as little clearance as possible without binding. Torque spider to 200 ft/lbs. and lock nut to 230 ft/lbs with a little blue locktite on the lock nut. Every now and then when pressing out the original pins you will get a little metal transfer and the new pins won't have any interference fit, if this happens you may have to raise the contact surface on the spider in a few places with a nail set or some similar tool. Make sure you replace the bushings in your clutch weights also. If all is done properly your clutch should perform well for another 1,000 miles or so. At 2,000 miles you will want to give the moveable sheave bushing a good inspection and may also want to replace the cover bushing.
 
R
Feb 29, 2016
398
341
63
You have to be very careful when replacing primary rollers. New pins and rollers are the way to go and need to be installed without scuffing the contact surface of the inside of the roller. New thrust washers should also be installed, and again installed with care, do not pinch the thrust washer with the pin when you press it in. The spider buttons should be shimmed or shaved to have as little clearance as possible without binding. Torque spider to 200 ft/lbs. and lock nut to 230 ft/lbs with a little blue locktite on the lock nut. Every now and then when pressing out the original pins you will get a little metal transfer and the new pins won't have any interference fit, if this happens you may have to raise the contact surface on the spider in a few places with a nail set or some similar tool. Make sure you replace the bushings in your clutch weights also. If all is done properly your clutch should perform well for another 1,000 miles or so. At 2,000 miles you will want to give the moveable sheave bushing a good inspection and may also want to replace the cover bushing.



I did ALL of what you listed. I even bought an extra set of roller washers because I pinched the first one. It all went back together pretty well otherwise.


Definitely looks like garbage again, rough rollers, weights off to one side starting to dig into the aluminum.


I still think that 1000 miles of service is pretty poor, and the dealer wanting $650 for it? I do not ever recall in 20 years of riding having to rebuild a clutch at 1000 miles.


Anyway, how about setting up the uncalibrated new unit? Simple as it seems?
 

Jay

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Nov 26, 2007
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Smithers, B.C.
If your shaking a clutch apart that fast maybe you have other issues. Engine mounts? crank? I rebuilt a clutch ONCE using spi parts, big mistake. Rollers shot in 40 miles, definitely use oem parts.
 
F
Sep 11, 2014
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seems like something is wrong that the dealer needs to fix, maybe time for a new dealer if one is close?.... riding buddy has 2100 miles on his axys - replaced his first belt at 1700 and no other issues. Have 5 axys in our group and no issues.
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
1,515
810
113
Elko, NV.
The weights being off to one side and digging into the aluminum is a sign of worn out bushings in your clutch weights. Worn bushings in your weights will destroy your new rollers and thrust washers on your first ride. We've been getting 1100 to 1200 miles out of Axys clutches before requiring fresh rollers. I used to get about 1,800 out of my Pro clutches. I agree SPI clutch rebuild kits are junk and so are there aftermarket electrical components such as stators. I wonder if anyone at SPI ever actually tried to use the products they sell and fit them to a sled?????? Setting up a new or used clutch is quite simple. If it came off the same model sled you shouldn't have to reshim the spider for proper belt sheave clearance. Most weights sold have the same heel backstop height as OEM and will simply bolt in and yield proper clearance .0010" to .0020". You should be able to simply replace the spring and weights, torque to 60 ft/lbs. wing it up, retorque to 60 ft/lbs. and rock and roll.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Oct 5, 2010
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The weights being off to one side and digging into the aluminum is a sign of worn out bushings in your clutch weights. Worn bushings in your weights will destroy your new rollers and thrust washers on your first ride. We've been getting 1100 to 1200 miles out of Axys clutches before requiring fresh rollers. I used to get about 1,800 out of my Pro clutches. I agree SPI clutch rebuild kits are junk and so are there aftermarket electrical components such as stators. I wonder if anyone at SPI ever actually tried to use the products they sell and fit them to a sled?????? Setting up a new or used clutch is quite simple. If it came off the same model sled you shouldn't have to reshim the spider for proper belt sheave clearance. Most weights sold have the same heel backstop height as OEM and will simply bolt in and yield proper clearance .0010" to .0020". You should be able to simply replace the spring and weights, torque to 60 ft/lbs. wing it up, retorque to 60 ft/lbs. and rock and roll.

Torque spec is 80 foot lbs.
 

hamlin

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Sep 13, 2013
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This is somewhat off topic but have you or the dealer looked into the ves cable? Sounds like it might be worth looking at if your only getting 7200 out of it. I don't think the clutch would drop the rpm that much unless something obvious was wrong like a broken spring.
 
R
Feb 29, 2016
398
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I am well aware of the fact that there are other issues with the sled. When you take it in and there are clutch issues, that needs to be addressed before they can start looking for other issues or they will keep blaming it on the clutch. With a brand new clutch maybe I can convince someone to find the other problems. Maybe... because the clowns at Polaris can't figure out who the warranty company is.


This will be my last Poo for a while, just can't take the run around anymore on this poorly built machine. It was a great one year machine. I have hardly been able to ride it this season and it is far from sorted out.


I will be using a different dealer. This already was a new dealer after the last one took 12 visits for the TPS and never fixed it on my '14 Pro. This dealer isn't any better. Guess I have a 2hr drive to my next two choices...


It will get a new primary and weights along with the 2 week old spring. I will try to proceed from there.
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
1,515
810
113
Elko, NV.
I was doing some serious bitchin' myself a couple months ago but finally figured it out. If you want your Axys to run properly day after day you will need to rebuild your primary every 1,000 miles, new secondary spring every 1,000 miles, new motor mounts every 1,000 miles, fresh belt when worn to 1.410" (about 500 miles). I wish the dealer would have informed me of all the above, they just stole $200.00 said everything was fine and I had to figure out the issues myself. It sure is a fun sled when working right, I was doing some wicked steep chute climbing in the Ruby Mountains this morning and had a blast, climbing over the bars trying to keep the front end down, spinning 8,100 R's to 11,000'. My 2017 turned 1,800 miles this morning and still runs strong after all the above were addressed.
 

kiliki

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I thought the poo clutch was a selling point. if you have to rebuild them at 1k miles kinda kills the clutch is more durable part. I have 2100 miles on a 2016 cat with a 900 kit and the primary is looking great. kinda seems cat a poo have traded places with clutching and motor mounts over the last 5 years.
 
R
Feb 29, 2016
398
341
63
I was doing some serious bitchin' myself a couple months ago but finally figured it out. If you want your Axys to run properly day after day you will need to rebuild your primary every 1,000 miles, new secondary spring every 1,000 miles, new motor mounts every 1,000 miles, fresh belt when worn to 1.410" (about 500 miles). I wish the dealer would have informed me of all the above, they just stole $200.00 said everything was fine and I had to figure out the issues myself. It sure is a fun sled when working right, I was doing some wicked steep chute climbing in the Ruby Mountains this morning and had a blast, climbing over the bars trying to keep the front end down, spinning 8,100 R's to 11,000'. My 2017 turned 1,800 miles this morning and still runs strong after all the above were addressed.




I think we all have a right to be bitching about it. 1000 mile intervals are pretty sad for a $13k machine. The incredibly poor dealer support system and obtuse "customer service" Polaris trys to provide are pathetic excuses for what they should be.


I will order up the parts and fix the sled myself. Exactly what I was trying to avoid having to do by buying new sleds. I love the sled but man Polaris sucks at building and supporting this machine.
 

CO 2.0

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Well my 16 team cat clutch blew rollers at 1100 miles, and same miles I rebuilt my axys clutch due to sloppy bushings. If you ride them hard and get them hot a lot they just wear out fast. I dont ever remember getting more than 1000 miles out of any clutch on the past 10 cats and poos ive owned. Best was an indy dan p85 that i had on my edge 10 years ago. That one had 2000 miles on his rebuild, then I sold the sled.
 

DDECKER

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Nov 26, 2013
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I agree with the above I mean it is what it is I normally go through a primary 600-1000 miles but meh it is what it is gotta stop riding my stock sled like a boosted one hehe...
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
1,515
810
113
Elko, NV.
I totally agree on the customer support front. If Polaris really cared about their consumers they would have warrantied my motor mounts, rebuilt my primary, inspected my secondary and discovered the sacked out/broken spring especially when you consider my sled was only 1.5 months old when it started giving me fits. I am not sure how I got it in my head that first year was bumper to bumper warranty, but apparently I was hallucinating.
 
R
Feb 29, 2016
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I hit ebay for parts. Found a new take off primary from M&M in Mn for 280 shipped and a full set of new take off motor mounts from somewhere in Wa fro $180 shipped. Still less than the worthless dealer wanted to rebuild my old primary. I still would have had issues because the mounts are worn out. I did rebuild the clutch and it did pick up rpm, just never over 7700.


So riding a borrowed, solid fast reliable heavy old Cat tomorrow... I should have the parts I need to get the Axys back on the snow for one last ride next weekend.
 
R
Feb 29, 2016
398
341
63
7700 rpm-- you need to do the E-VES push pull test of the cable. make sure you are between 16-18mm.

I wouldn't be surprised if your cable is broken-- 7700 rpm is about all they will pull with a broken cable, or a stretched cable.





7700 was right after the new motor was installed. That is how the worthless dealer returned it to me. I assumed they would have noticed if the cable was broken. I brought it back to them with the low rpm issue and they blamed the clutch. Slightly better but not fixed.


I will check the cable while I have it apart for the mounts. BTW rpm was down to 7200 max the last time out.
 
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