Lifetime membership is very cheap........
Just do it..........
Just do it..........
Coolant Heated handlebars
- Thread starter Sheetmetalfab
- Start date
J
Best Mod I've invested in yet.
I agree
but i am a Lifetime member i guess i better contact Christopher :face-icon-small-con
but i am a Lifetime member i guess i better contact Christopher :face-icon-small-con
M
Hey Tryagain, what's with the calling out...most members are basic:face-icon-small-ton
N
How do you keep both bars equal when the throttle tube insulates the right one making it feel cooler?
P
You run the coolant through the throttle side first and after going through the balance tube to the clutch side the temps have dropped enough tor roughly balance it out
so any consensus on epoxy to use ? and will epoxy plugs in the end of bars work ?
i remember someone beat rubber plugs into bar ends and that was another option for us who don't have a lathe or alum. welding chops
i remember someone beat rubber plugs into bar ends and that was another option for us who don't have a lathe or alum. welding chops
N
Would you guys be interested in o ringed plugs you just pop into the ends? Weve been running them and I wouldnt mind making a batch for the DIY guys.
I built my own bars and I used a solid hex head pipe plug which I drilled and tapped threads in for the handguard bolt (not all the way through, left about a 1/16" of meat at the bottom of the hole) and I used a pipe tap and threaded the ends of my bars, threaded in the plug and it worked perfect.
M
DYI thread
I just searched for the headed handle bar DYI thread from a few years back with no luck. Any one have that book marked or remember the auther? Thanks.
I just searched for the headed handle bar DYI thread from a few years back with no luck. Any one have that book marked or remember the auther? Thanks.
M
I just finished my bars last week. I turned 6061 plugs, shortened my bars and beveled the ends then welded the plugs in with the tube running through the bars. I tapped the plugs M8 1.25 for the bar end bolts. I didn't have much luck with the epoxy plan, most of it flowed too flat to block off the bars so I pumped the center of the bars full of RTV. I'm going to leave the bars open and dry until the RTV is bombproof because there's a lot of it in there. I installed a valve on both the input and output lines to the bars so that if I spring a leak I can shut off the bars as well as control the heat. I removed the bypass elbow on my Thermobob and replaced it with a Tee, one side feeds the heat and the other is still the bypass which always had a valve on it.
I didn't take any pics stupidly. I actually made 2 sets and still didn't take any pics.
M5
I didn't take any pics stupidly. I actually made 2 sets and still didn't take any pics.
M5
NO PICTURES dam you! :face-icon-small-hap
Bars
Ref diy bars. Fwiw, fastway makes threaded bar inserts. They are 5/8 with the center threaded for bark busters. Part 22-1-400. Also available with the 5/8 tap. They have shoulder so bottom tight in bars and with thread sealant should be very leakproof. Initially, I threaded my bars then decided to buy c3 setup. One of the makers of the coolant heated bars advised against the rtv in center and advised it never fully cures and eventually deterioates into coolant. Probably just scare tactic to sell his bars, but it could be an issue. Also, I didn't find a small transfer hose that was ethylene and propolene glycol tolerate and would fit in the bars. Edpm rubber would work, but smallest OD filled ID of bars. Pvc hose worked and probably ok but did not meet the temp range so would get very soft. Had I continued, I would have tried to force copper through the bars. Initial attempt showed copper would not go easy. I called permatex for info on rtv and epoxy and was advised to use one of there two part paste (not liquid) epoxies. Probably possible but not easy to get in center of bars. Fwiw.
Ref diy bars. Fwiw, fastway makes threaded bar inserts. They are 5/8 with the center threaded for bark busters. Part 22-1-400. Also available with the 5/8 tap. They have shoulder so bottom tight in bars and with thread sealant should be very leakproof. Initially, I threaded my bars then decided to buy c3 setup. One of the makers of the coolant heated bars advised against the rtv in center and advised it never fully cures and eventually deterioates into coolant. Probably just scare tactic to sell his bars, but it could be an issue. Also, I didn't find a small transfer hose that was ethylene and propolene glycol tolerate and would fit in the bars. Edpm rubber would work, but smallest OD filled ID of bars. Pvc hose worked and probably ok but did not meet the temp range so would get very soft. Had I continued, I would have tried to force copper through the bars. Initial attempt showed copper would not go easy. I called permatex for info on rtv and epoxy and was advised to use one of there two part paste (not liquid) epoxies. Probably possible but not easy to get in center of bars. Fwiw.
M
I'm calling BS on the RTV comment. How many times has it been used on thermostat housings in cars or boats or other applications. Mine will be drying for over a month before it sees coolant. It'll be fine. If you want to discourage the DIY market, don't price your product out of reach for what you get.
Just sayin.
M5
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...ex-water-pump-thermostat-rtv-silicone-gasket/
Just sayin.
M5
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...ex-water-pump-thermostat-rtv-silicone-gasket/
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Bars
M5, your likely right about the rtv. Although his implication was that it was too thick a glob in the center and it would harden on the exposed part and did not harden in the middle kinda like what happens in the long nozzle of a tube of rtv. It would still have to deteriorate on the outside to expose any uncurred center stuff so probably no worries. And your extended exposure time would benefit as well. Time will tell, and I'm sure someone has already used the rtv without issue.
P.S. When I called permatex they suggested their "the right stuff" rtv or the paste epoxy. I don't recall why but the guy gave the nod to the epoxy.
M5, your likely right about the rtv. Although his implication was that it was too thick a glob in the center and it would harden on the exposed part and did not harden in the middle kinda like what happens in the long nozzle of a tube of rtv. It would still have to deteriorate on the outside to expose any uncurred center stuff so probably no worries. And your extended exposure time would benefit as well. Time will tell, and I'm sure someone has already used the rtv without issue.
P.S. When I called permatex they suggested their "the right stuff" rtv or the paste epoxy. I don't recall why but the guy gave the nod to the epoxy.
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M
I hear what you are saying. There is a good sized blob in there but its honestly not that big plus its drying from both sides and the center. I'm really not concerned about it, and the RTV isn't going to deteriorate.
I have the Right Stuff here as well, we used to use it to glue all kinds of parts on turbo Apex projects, things like 1/2 moon seals etc, gluing on the intercoolers yada yada. Fundamentally its not a ton different than RTV but I believe it has more adhesion. It is a good product, it sticks like $hit to fur.
The issue with building the heated bars is getting whatever product in there in the first place. There's no way to easily stuff it in through the center hole. You really need to be able to inject it without fouling up the threads for your blocker plug because once the bars are full you have no room to re-tap the threads for the plug. I'm not sure if The Right Stuff comes in a small tube I buy it in a large tube that goes in a caulking gun so, no go on injection into the bars.
I guess we will find out here in a couple of weeks how it all works out. I wouldn't add the RTV or any non catalyzed product bolt it up and go riding though without giving it a good long drying period.
I spent under $50 for all the parts including valves so it is cost effective, and it takes about 3 hours start to finish, bit less now that I have it all figured out.
M5
I have the Right Stuff here as well, we used to use it to glue all kinds of parts on turbo Apex projects, things like 1/2 moon seals etc, gluing on the intercoolers yada yada. Fundamentally its not a ton different than RTV but I believe it has more adhesion. It is a good product, it sticks like $hit to fur.
The issue with building the heated bars is getting whatever product in there in the first place. There's no way to easily stuff it in through the center hole. You really need to be able to inject it without fouling up the threads for your blocker plug because once the bars are full you have no room to re-tap the threads for the plug. I'm not sure if The Right Stuff comes in a small tube I buy it in a large tube that goes in a caulking gun so, no go on injection into the bars.
I guess we will find out here in a couple of weeks how it all works out. I wouldn't add the RTV or any non catalyzed product bolt it up and go riding though without giving it a good long drying period.
I spent under $50 for all the parts including valves so it is cost effective, and it takes about 3 hours start to finish, bit less now that I have it all figured out.
M5
N
The best soft tubing I’ve found is Tygon fuel hose. It’s very tough and won’t harden from anything, and I suspect it will hold up to coolant very well.
The best sealant I’ve found is urethane goopy kind. Like used on windshields. Significantly tougher than RTV. There’s a reason it comes in an all metal sealed tube.
Now, I’d love to see some home brewed setups about these heated bars. I’ve been using heated gloves and they work pretty well, but I’d rather have the heated bars and thinner gloves.
The best sealant I’ve found is urethane goopy kind. Like used on windshields. Significantly tougher than RTV. There’s a reason it comes in an all metal sealed tube.
Now, I’d love to see some home brewed setups about these heated bars. I’ve been using heated gloves and they work pretty well, but I’d rather have the heated bars and thinner gloves.
Hey M5
i know you didn't take pictures while building
can you shoot some of final product
thanks
I'm a visual learner
i know you didn't take pictures while building
can you shoot some of final product
thanks
I'm a visual learner
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