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What would cause this clutch wear?

Dirty Steve

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Axys 800 with 650 miles. Everything works as it should. I have the clutches torn apart for cleaning and was changing the primary spring and noticed this wear inside the front cover.

Everything was factory.
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Dirty Steve

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I replaced the spring, that is why it was apart.
I did notice any corresponding wear on the spring paint.

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ZRP Engineering

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The primary springs coil-bind its pretty common for them to rub on the cover in that spot when it happens. Not a lot you can do other than try a different spring rate
 

mountainhorse

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The springs can bind as they compress and the ends dig in as they twist slightly during this compression and dig in.

If they cant twist... they will deform a bit, or...sometimes break. They chew up the spider and the sheave as well.

Thunder products make these "Glide washers" to go in there and help to alleviate this issue.

http://thunderproducts.com/shop/clutch-spring-glide-washer-kit/

GWashersAll.jpg


Glide Washers

Have you ever noticed how some of the compression springs in a snowmobile clutch are sometimes twisted and deformed when you take a clutch apart for service? Most every technician has seen this, and often replaced springs due to their deformation.

Besides the spring being twisted and deformed, what does this do to the performance? Well, the shift characteristics of the clutch and entire drive system is calibrated upon a known spring rate. If the spring is twisted and distorted, the drive system calibration is suffering. You know it.

Clutch springs are in constant motion, being subjected to compression, expansion, end-to-end radial torque, vibration and distortion. One way to help the minimize the twisting forces and help keep the springs moving freely instead of binding is to allow the ends of the spring to move freely within the “spring pocket”, the capture area inside of the clutch.

One solution to this problem is to install “Glide Washers”. These steel shims act as slip-washers and are custom-made with a baked-on lubricity coating, and are far more durable than simple plastic washers. By placing a Glide Washer on each end of the spring, it is allowed to slip when required within the spring pocket, thus no longer able to bind on the spyder or clutch cover. The spring will remain straight and true, free to do its job.

Thunder Products offers “Glide Washer” kits for all makes and most models that includes two lubricity washers and three additional zinc-plated washers for precision tuning. Each washer increases the spring preload and clutch engagement speed by 40-50 rpm, so with the benefit of knowing your springs are not binding and staying aligned better you can do some tweaking along the way. Multi-tasking, of sorts.
 
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FCR112

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I would consider glide washers Mandatory equipment on Polarry and cat primaries. And I am not sponshured in any way:)
 

Indy_500

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Ever since I was 14 years old breaking springs on my 99 xc 700 I've been taking a Dremel to the ends of the spring to deburr it to reduce it from binding. Give it a try, it costs nothing!
 

Dirty Steve

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Ordered some glide washers. Also, checked my sheave to belt clearance on a brand new belt after installing new SSI weights. Should be .010" to .020"....I stopped stacking feeler gauges at .066. Looks like this clutch is getting sent to Indy Dan to have the spider shimmed/machined and a balance job. Looking at going to light weight primary cover and Ti bolts while I'm at it.

I see Indy Specialty has a new one coming and I like the Zollinger cover that seems to have been proven on the RMSHA Circuit.

I want to make sure all the power is getting to the snow!
 

ZRP Engineering

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Ordered some glide washers. Also, checked my sheave to belt clearance on a brand new belt after installing new SSI weights. Should be .010" to .020"....I stopped stacking feeler gauges at .066. Looks like this clutch is getting sent to Indy Dan to have the spider shimmed/machined and a balance job. Looking at going to light weight primary cover and Ti bolts while I'm at it.

I see Indy Specialty has a new one coming and I like the Zollinger cover that seems to have been proven on the RMSHA Circuit.

I want to make sure all the power is getting to the snow!
Just about every Polaris mod sled run our cover last season. The ZRP cover also includes a shim washer like shown above
 

mountainhorse

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shims and stuff

Ordered some glide washers. Also, checked my sheave to belt clearance on a brand new belt after installing new SSI weights. Should be .010" to .020"....I stopped stacking feeler gauges at .066. Looks like this clutch is getting sent to Indy Dan to have the spider shimmed/machined and a balance job. Looking at going to light weight primary cover and Ti bolts while I'm at it.

I see Indy Specialty has a new one coming and I like the Zollinger cover that seems to have been proven on the RMSHA Circuit.

I want to make sure all the power is getting to the snow!

You should also make sure, that your flyweights are exactly the same weight... and its a good idea to put the SS shims on either side of the weight, the weight pin goes through the shim, so that your bushings in the weights don't wear out too quick....not a bad idea to replace the bushings if there is any play in them.

Here is a great thread from 'Ron' about the P85


http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=416808

Clutch is off of an 09 Dragon, checking specs as indicated in the write up.
Belt side clearance is .050 vs spec of .005-.035. I will disassemble the spider to shim to .010. With this amount of adjustment to the clutch it should be balanced again.


005.jpg



The clearance on weights is .017 to .021 so I will add the comet shim washers to the thrust side. One washer is resting on the thrust side of the weight. The picture also show my measurement between the buttons and tower. These are very close at .002 on two & .003 on the other. Keeping these tight maintains proper clutch alignment through shift.


014.jpg


On reassembly make sure that the X on the spider and the X on the cover align so that your clutch stays in balance.

015-1.jpg

attachment.php


COMET SHIMS.jpg
 
Last edited:

SRXSRULE

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If your checking belt clearance with a new belt you better start by measuring the belt. I bought 2 new polaris belts last year and both were out of spec. They both were narrower then the factory belt that had around 500 miles on it. I returned both of them and out of the 10 they had hanging behind the counter, none of them were in spec. Just an FYI. Eric
 

mountainhorse

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I think the Gates belts seem to have better tolerance control than the Mitsuboshi (factory polaris) belts.

The Gates G-Force carbon belts have a lot of rave reviews as well... at about $90 delivered to your door.

Wash/scrub any new clutch belt with hot water and good detergent to remove the mold release compounds and get rid of any rubber dust. Wash them like this ever few rides and clean the sheaves for optimum performance of your sled... the belt and clutch are what gets the power to the track... make sure it works as best as possible!


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V

volcano buster

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You should also make sure, that your flyweights are exactly the same weight... and its a good idea to put the SS shims on either side of the weight, the weight pin goes through the shim, so that your bushings in the weights don't wear out too quick....not a bad idea to replace the bushings if there is any play in them.

Here is a great thread from 'Ron' about the P85


http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=416808



attachment.php


I believe your shim is not on the thrust side of the weight. It should be on the back side of the weight where the clutch will "run into" the weight, not on the leading edge of it.
 

mountainhorse

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I believe your shim is not on the thrust side of the weight. It should be on the back side of the weight where the clutch will "run into" the weight, not on the leading edge of it.

Not my photo...Rons..

BUT

I think it is just laying there to show us what it is.

from his first post in the linked thread:


TIP
Replacement Weight bushings by Comet are available. (Western Power Spts. #208342-3 are $21.95) To remove a weight bushing you need a tool with a shoulder.
You can also buy steel Comet washers to shim the weight and keep it true in the clutch. (WPS part #204203 6@$4.50) At 500-1000 miles there is enough wear that a single washer will usually fit on the thrust side of the weight. The clutch turns counterclockwise so looking down at the weight nearest you; it would be the right side of the weight is the thrust side. You may need to grind a little off at the base to square the surface for the washer-a Dremmel works great. The slot for the weights will be wider at the top and narrow at the bottom (V) so grind the bottom to square the opening. If you are ambitious you can add the washer to both sides & then all wear is to a washer that can be replaced. This small amount of material won’t change clutch balance much. Once you are done with clutching it’s a good idea to have your primary balanced again.



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idahosledder

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I think the Gates belts seem to have better tolerance control than the Mitsuboshi (factory polaris) belts.

The Gates G-Force carbon belts have a lot of rave reviews as well... at about $90 delivered to your door.

Wash/scrub any new clutch belt with hot water and good detergent to remove the mold release compounds and get rid of any rubber dust. Wash them like this ever few rides and clean the sheaves for optimum performance of your sled... the belt and clutch are what gets the power to the track... make sure it works as best as possible!


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I thought you didn't need to wash the carbon belts due to the manufacturing process.....
I do anyway, but was told they dont have the mold release stuff on them.
 
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