check engine light!
- Thread starter rymo84
- Start date
pipe sensor is fine. check engine light would blink 4 times then pause and blink 4 times and so on. called the dealer and he said it was a t map sensor. they are proud of them ($85). he also said they have never had one go out. has anyone else had this problem or am i the only lucky one?
Is the t-bap sensor still plugged in? I also have never heard of one failing.
D
light flashing
i have a 08 d7 with bd turbo and am having problems too. my light flashes just as it comes under boost then stops after 7800 wot. but mine has no bottom end it is driving me crazy. what are your tuning #s if u dont mind. im running 7lbs of boost with 91 pump gas.
i have a 08 d7 with bd turbo and am having problems too. my light flashes just as it comes under boost then stops after 7800 wot. but mine has no bottom end it is driving me crazy. what are your tuning #s if u dont mind. im running 7lbs of boost with 91 pump gas.
just a stab in the dark here but could it be the exhausts valves? sounds similar to the symptoms
yes the t map sensor is pluged in. i have unpluged it and the light still flashes four times. i have a new one order and it wont be here tell wed so im gunna borrow one from a friend. maybe its just a bad wire or somthing
how many times does your light flash befor it pauses for a second?
my #s are all messed up right know cuz i was trying to get the sled to run right. with the tmap sensor out it would adjust correctly for alltitude, air temp, and what ever eles it does.
checked the exhaust valves and cleaned them. spring and belows are fine. what rpm do they open and how do they work with that selonoid?
J
Attitude boxes are the way to go they are ten times easier to tune with!
the boondocker fuel box had nothing to do with the check engine light. just a broke wire. i like to see actual #s and not have to carry paper around to tell me what light does what. thanks
J
I can't tell you how many times my boondocker box caused my check engine light to come on and I had to hook the battery up and by pass it!
K
I have very similar issues, other than my check engine light isn't flashing or coming on at all. I am running the BD Race gas setup with the water kit on the turbo, as well as the pony intercooler and BOV. I run 12-13 PSI and was having no troubles whatsoever, until I split my pipe at the seam. I fixed that problem, and now my sled is running strong again, other than two issues. First, at full boost/full throttle it cuts out on top, almost like I am hitting a rev limiter. Second, the bottom is doggier than it was before.
As to the first problem, my RPM's are only getting to 8250 or slightly above, So I don't think the rev limiter should be messing with me, (can anyone tell me where it is set from the factory?). The only other thing I can think of is the stock pipe EGT sensor. I run egts off the Y pipe as well and that is what I tune from, those are running a little higher than I would like, but not too bad. The final variable in this is that I opened up my exhaust valves when I was hunting down the pipe issue, and the bellows were filled with a really thick black unburned oil looking crap (like the consistency of grease). One had blown by to the top side of the bellows, so I cleaned the whole assembly, and put in a new set of bellows. I am wondering if this has woke up the engine enough to be causing both my top end cut out issue, as well as my bottom end dogginess.
Any help or tech info on rev limiter, and pipe sensor settings, and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
As to the first problem, my RPM's are only getting to 8250 or slightly above, So I don't think the rev limiter should be messing with me, (can anyone tell me where it is set from the factory?). The only other thing I can think of is the stock pipe EGT sensor. I run egts off the Y pipe as well and that is what I tune from, those are running a little higher than I would like, but not too bad. The final variable in this is that I opened up my exhaust valves when I was hunting down the pipe issue, and the bellows were filled with a really thick black unburned oil looking crap (like the consistency of grease). One had blown by to the top side of the bellows, so I cleaned the whole assembly, and put in a new set of bellows. I am wondering if this has woke up the engine enough to be causing both my top end cut out issue, as well as my bottom end dogginess.
Any help or tech info on rev limiter, and pipe sensor settings, and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
