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Complete loss with electrical issue

S
Jan 20, 2016
16
3
3
45
Cadott WI
I have an 06 fusion 900, have been chasing electrical issue for over a week now including removing the motor twice and checking stator.

With chassis relay plugged in the engine starts, idles up, very week lights, no mfd.

Unplug chassis relay runs perfect just no lights and no mfd.

Have tried three new chassis relays all with the same result.

Tested capacitor, 12.16 volts and slowly diminishes the longer I have the meter on it.

Tested stator and ohms out perfectly. Removed motor and stator, no busted wires, flywheel housing is still glued in tight.

started sled without chassis relay in place and checked voltage regulator and getting 13.5 volts at idle and very small increase as I increase the rpms.

Removed MFD wiring harness and inspected, no busted wires, no exposed wires.

Completely loss as to the cause of my problem and any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
S
Jan 20, 2016
16
3
3
45
Cadott WI
by CDI do you mean ECU? I have tested the capacitor and it holds a charge, I have also tested the Voltage Regulator and it holds 13.5 volts to 13.6 volts no matter the rpms.
 
S
Jan 31, 2015
36
6
8
Denver, Co
I'm having a similar issue with the same testing done. Tonight I found out one of the exhaust mounting springs up front it is actually sparking like a spark plug! So I have some weird wiring issues going on

I remember reading about a mod to add ground wires to these 900s but haven't spent much time searching to find that post.

Im sure it has been said before but sometimes the stators can test good and still be bad...

Good luck!
 

guidoxpress

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jul 13, 2008
5,105
1,506
113
Wasilla, AK from MT
Could be bad driver in the Ecu.

I have a bunch of 06 700 Ecus that can be flashed to stock 900 mapping or SLP if u have their pipe at ur dealer. I'll sell one to u if U wanna try it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
S
Jan 20, 2016
16
3
3
45
Cadott WI
I have not only tested the stator but have pulled it and visually inspected it, would agree with the stator being bad if it wasnt for running perfect while the chassis relay being disconnected and no variation in voltage at voltage regulator while the sled is running. My logic tells me that if it was stator problem there would be a loss of voltage and/or variation of voltage as well as the sleds running ability would be consistently affected regardless of wether the chassis relay was connected or not. I have disconnected hand and thumb warmers, no change in running, have disconnected key switch, kill switch, neither changed the issue. I disconnected the mfd and headlight harness and once again no change to it not running while relay was in and it running just fine while chassis relay disconnected.

I am leaning towards bad ecu as that is the one electrical component that isbthe constant within this electrical problem. The ECU tells the relay to close allowing power to MFD, headlights, tailights, etc. If my logic is askew please let me know not only that it is askew but why.

Gonna try to get a used one on Monday to plug in and try. If that fixes it then I will consider purchasing a new ECU.
 
S
Jan 20, 2016
16
3
3
45
Cadott WI
Installed another ECU, and no change, sled runs just fine without the chassis relay, as soon as I plug chassis relay in it idles up for a couple of seconds then dies. Anyone have any ideas? Even when chassis relay i pkugged in no headlights and no taillights.
 
T
Oct 23, 2008
105
37
28
Something is definitely shorted out. Whatever the relay sends power to is shorted. Weather it be the headlight, tail light, hand warmers, thumb warmer or any other accessories that the relay powers. I would start by isolating some of the other accessories one at a time and see if you can find one that is causing your problem.

Unplug the harness that goes up to the hood and see if it will run with the relay plugged in. If it runs with it unplugged, you know your problem is in the hood wiring harness.

If it still doesn't run, then plug that harness back in and move on to the next one.
 

diamonddave

Chilly’s Mentor
Lifetime Membership
Apr 5, 2006
5,569
3,866
113
Wokeville, WA.
Something is definitely shorted out. Whatever the relay sends power to is shorted. Weather it be the headlight, tail light, hand warmers, thumb warmer or any other accessories that the relay powers. I would start by isolating some of the other accessories one at a time and see if you can find one that is causing your problem.

Unplug the harness that goes up to the hood and see if it will run with the relay plugged in. If it runs with it unplugged, you know your problem is in the hood wiring harness.

If it still doesn't run, then plug that harness back in and move on to the next one.


This is good advice...easy way if you don't know how to "chase wires" is you need to unplug everything that is fed with voltage by the chassis relay and then start sled. Then start plugging items back in.

Handwarmers shorting out on the bars was the most common for this as has shorted wires on the tunnel for taillights. I could even see an internal shorted out MFD now that these sleds have some years on them.

Your theory about how it can't be the stator isn't exactly true. You could have a sled run fine but if the "chassis" leg of the stator is bad, then you could have the symptoms you describe. There are 3 legs on the stator. This is how a stator can check good resistance wise but fail once a load is put on it.

Also, make sure you are using a genuine Polaris Chassis relay and not an aftermarket Napa relay. They are not the same. Guys were running into all sorts of issues years back with the Napa relays.

I would print off the wiring diagram and begin
 
S
Jan 20, 2016
16
3
3
45
Cadott WI
I found two bad wires, one brown one that comes out of the ecu wiring harness for the stator. Also found a melted wire connection on top of the oil reservoir, looks to be the wire feeds used for heated shield or a tether maybe, not sure but the factory heatshrink was completely melted as was the plastic on the wire so my guess is that wire was shorting out against the frame and has caused two ecu failures and possibly multiple other electrical component failures including stator, regulator, and capacitor.
 
S
Jan 20, 2016
16
3
3
45
Cadott WI
I dont underatand why everyone is telling me stator, stator, stator, stator, I have consistent 13.5 v at regulator, both red wires and orange wires. If it was stator wouldnt i not have 13.5 v at the regulator?
 
S
Jan 20, 2016
16
3
3
45
Cadott WI
Not sure what I did but now the sled runs fine if the chassis relay is installed or not, still dont have headlights or mfg but now at least the sled doesnt kill when chassis relay is connected. I am pretty sure that has to do with the repair of the two bad wires. I checked voltage at relay connection and I have 13.5 volts there but it is not sending power to the healights or gauges. Tested both all three relays and they click as well as there is minimal resistance when there is 12v hooked up to the relay. I have taken every wire harness apart and checked for pushed pins as well as any other frayed or broken wires and have found none so with the exception of a broken wire inside its plastic housing I am fairly confident that there are no bad wires.
 
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