"$28 Upgrade" parts list

TRS · Dec 13, 2013

Solby said:
Just thought I would throw this out there. I put the kit on my new pro this week. Be careful to closely inspect where the can will be in relationship to the new thermostat housing. I was looking at the upper hose from the head and trying to keep it relatively in line. Well it looks like you have all this nice room to work in. Turns out when you put the can back on it gets really close to the new thermostat housing if you aren't careful. I heat taped the heck out of the new housing and cut my upper hose shorter to pull it towards the engine. Just a heads up about measuring twice and cutting once and double checking where the can will be when assembled.

Thanks TRS great mod and thanks Polaris for being smart enough to engineer a can you can remove without removing the pipe. Oh yeah and a hood and side panels that are decent to get off.

Thanks Solby,
Yes, you will need to position the thermostat as close to the stock clamp/hanger on the airbox as possible. The 8205 hose will have a slight bend in it when installed.

mountainhorse · Dec 13, 2013

Please note:

That if you install this setup in your sled that still has warranty on it and you have an engine problem... You will most likely be denied warranty claims on the engine should a problem arise... Magnuson act or not.

Just a heads up. If you change it out... don't expect warranty coverage.

That being said.. I'm putting this in my sled..

.

beamslayer · Dec 13, 2013

Plenty of room with a HPS can . Hoping to try it all out tomorrow .

Trenchmaster · Dec 13, 2013

Solby said:
Just thought I would throw this out there. I put the kit on my new pro this week. Be careful to closely inspect where the can will be in relationship to the new thermostat housing. I was looking at the upper hose from the head and trying to keep it relatively in line. Well it looks like you have all this nice room to work in. Turns out when you put the can back on it gets really close to the new thermostat housing if you aren't careful. I heat taped the heck out of the new housing and cut my upper hose shorter to pull it towards the engine. Just a heads up about measuring twice and cutting once and double checking where the can will be when assembled.

Thanks TRS great mod and thanks Polaris for being smart enough to engineer a can you can remove without removing the pipe. Oh yeah and a hood and side panels that are decent to get off.

I also ended up with a close fit between the thermostat and exhaust can. You want to install the thermostat as close to the airbox as you can without kinking the Napa hose!

TRS · Dec 13, 2013

a couple reference pictures

sledhead9825 · Dec 16, 2013

TRS said:
a couple reference pictures

TRS in one of your pics in another thread, it showed the upper hose 8205 coupled to the original hose.
What did you use to couple them? I mounted the thermostat a little further back,so it is putting a little more curve into 8205. I was going to couple 8205 to the original hose with a elbow. Would allow the thermostat to sit further rearward away from muffler or turbo. Thoughts?

TRS · Dec 16, 2013

sledhead9825 said:
TRS in one of your pics in another thread, it showed the upper hose 8205 coupled to the original hose.
What did you use to couple them? I mounted the thermostat a little further back,so it is putting a little more curve into 8205. I was going to couple 8205 to the original hose with a elbow. Would allow the thermostat to sit further rearward away from muffler or turbo. Thoughts?

With the first install I used hoses that were in my inventory for testing. I don't like the coupler that wed the two hoses together it has to small of an ID. They are available at Home Depot, they are made of nylon. Do not use PVC couplers, they will deform. I have been using, only, the 8205 from the motor to the thermostat housing on NA and Turbo sleds. No issues to date. You will need to cut/trim the 8205, the install length is critical. To long and it will kink. It is a trial and error fit. Each and every individuals placement of the thermo housing dictates the 8205 length. I hope this helps.

sledhead9825 · Dec 16, 2013

TRS said:
With the first install I used hoses that were in my inventory for testing. I don't like the coupler that wed the two hoses together it has to small of an ID. They are available at Home Depot, they are made of nylon. Do not use PVC couplers, they will deform. I have been using, only, the 8205 from the motor to the thermostat housing on NA and Turbo sleds. No issues to date. You will need to cut/trim the 8205, the install length is critical. To long and it will kink. It is a trial and error fit. Each and every individuals placement of the thermo housing dictates the 8205 length. I hope this helps.

Yes that helps Thank You

Ult680 · Jan 8, 2014

Has anyone done this with the Silber kit? Not sure how to re-route the hoses.

cateye5312 · Jan 8, 2014

A friend of mine who is a retired Poo rider recently dyno tested a couple engines at different temps. Normal temp for Poo seems to be around 125 degrees. By increasing engine temp to 145 degrees the engine gained 5 HP on the dyno. He just went to a higher temp thermostat and now his sled runs 145. Not sure I'm excited to be lowering the operating temps.

Setsaa · Jan 9, 2014

Anyone who will sell/ship this kit to norway? if i should buy the parts here it will probably be a 500$ upgrade. :/

TRS · Jan 9, 2014

Setsaa said:
Anyone who will sell/ship this kit to norway? if i should buy the parts here it will probably be a 500$ upgrade. :/

Call Roger's Sports, they sent a shipment to Norway last month.
307-587-6818

Norway · Jan 10, 2014

TRS said:
Call Roger's Sports, they sent a shipment to Norway last month.
307-587-6818

Yup! Got my helix and other polaris stuff yesterday.

But I got kits from two sources and since a swede here asked, I followed through on both kits. Now when I sent an account number and a price, silence...

So I have a kit for sale, can be on your door in two days Setsaa.

Rune

tuneman · Jan 10, 2014

cateye5312 said:
A friend of mine who is a retired Poo rider recently dyno tested a couple engines at different temps. Normal temp for Poo seems to be around 125 degrees. By increasing engine temp to 145 degrees the engine gained 5 HP on the dyno. He just went to a higher temp thermostat and now his sled runs 145. Not sure I'm excited to be lowering the operating temps.

I recommend going back to the original post from TRS and read up on what this upgrade is for. It's not to run the engine cooler. First, the bypass thermostat warms the engine more evenly, reducing hot spots. Second, the Poo thermostat is too restrictive. Third, it helps the engine hit it's temperature sweet spot, and maintain it in deep powder.

TRS said:
Operating temps seem to be very crucial on the CFI2. Here is an example, a 2013 PRO 155 800. I was clutching this sled. Long up hill pulls, long side hill pulls, tree riding(74 mi. day). At 125 to 127 degrees it would hold 8100 RPM and very responsive. When it hit 129 it would fall to 7900 RPM. At 131 it fell to 7600 which is below peak torque. At 7600 it could not and cannot recover and would drop to 7400. Get it back down to 125 and all was well again, hit 131 and you better be looking for an escape route. What is the ECU doing??? When running the sled down the trail, no load, wide open, and it hit 131 degrees it would drop 100-150 RPM. With a heavy load on the motor it is more evident on running issues.

geo said:
I don't think extra tunnel cooler would change my 13's (don't know anything about 11 and 12) temp spike.

I've watched my temp gauge since day one and even a stocker with too light a weight (meaning the clutch is not asking the motor to work very hard) hit's this spike. As TRS said it just starts to lose power at 129 and on up and it doesn't take long for a modified one to get there. 100 to 150' of good strong braap then it starts to sign off
One other thing happens here too. It doesn't make a difference if there is 6' of fresh or 6"! As soon as you back off and turn out you can glance at the temp and will see it drop. By the time you are straightened out and gravity takes effect the temp has dropped to 125 or 123 in a matter of seconds and it's all good again.
Coolers are doing their job but the coolant can't flow through the engine fast enough because of the restriction caused by the tiny (Doo one looks bigger) open thermostat IMO. 1" in at the pump and maybe 5/8" out at the top of the head. At full load on this light engine that's a big deal. At 3/4 throttle not so much.

I believe the majority of " not backshifting" and "won't pull more weight even with the added power" threads have a lot to do with this temp spike. I even think it is designed in so that the beancounters safety protocols can take effect more quickly.
I've pulled my plugs in the field and have seen the amount the timing retards at this temp. I'd guess at 2 to 4 degrees easy.

Thanx for the confirmation TRS and the cure. I can`t wait to reinstall the clutching my a** likes instead of the one my computor requires me to run. Your pick of thermostat makes it better than the others I looked into.
For open country riders with the long pulls, I think this is a big bang for the buck. Install and ask more from your motor with clutch load. It won't fall off now but be ready to give it some fuel in case the pipe temp sensor can't keep up.

800 pro. 130 some ponies on a dyno lol. If you've ridden one you wonder about that no.. If you do short pokes with 160 plus sleds you wonder about that no..
I think that by the time you get up to temp to do a pull on the dyno the engine is already retarding itself to give that no.. This is a strong motor from what my a** tells me.

If you see +5hp on the dyno at 145, the thermostat is wide open. So, it negates the setpoint of the thermostat. The concern is now overall flow to keep the temperature consistent. This mod helps with that.

I've got this mod in my sled. Major kudos to TRS.

rotax · Jan 11, 2014

TRS said:
Roger's Sport Center in Cody, WY 307-587-6818

Can anyone share the price on Roger's Sport Center's kit?
Availability?

Have sled tore apart for pistons, seems like a good time to tackle this mod.

If their kit is <$50 shipped, it seems like a no brainer to go through them vs parting things together..and running around town.

Looks like their closed Sun, will try to call Monday, but if anyone has the info before hand, that'd be great. Thanks.

EDIT: Looking for the original topic about this mod, can't find anything. Anyone have a working link?
EDIT more: Found it here: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339282&highlight=$28

Kyle.laabs · Feb 24, 2014

Has anyone tried this on the IQ chassis? Curious as to if it would be the same. Thanks

Joemt · Jan 26, 2015

I know this thread is older, but the last question posted is mine also:

Has anyone put this mod on a 2009 Dragon?

I have installed this mod on a 2011 RMK assault and the results were great. Sled was ridden all day in 50 degree temps yesterday......107 - 113 temps all day. My son had to drop his scratches when the road did not have enough snow to cool the sled. right back to 111.

Anyone install this mod on a 2009/10 dragon? I do not want to just pull the thermostat out............

TRS · Feb 11, 2015

Had a few wanting more picture of the install. Hope these help. The top hose, in the kit, comes as one piece. It doesn't need to be spliced. These are pictures of the first install, test sled. Routing remains the same.

sledless bdh · Feb 13, 2015

TRS, is the kit in the pics the one from Rogers? If so, do I just call to purchase or do I purchase online somewhere? Met the owners a week ago, top notch people for sure!!

Austin

TRS · Feb 13, 2015

Yes, Rogers sells this kit.(307-587-6818) The pictures are of the mockup I did for testing. The kit will consist of one piece hoses that will need to be cut to length for your install. The kit doesn't have the CT clamps(pictured) but utilizes the Gates heat shrink clamps. You will also receive the PEX plug and cap to plug the unused port along with the BRP thermo housing and a washer to replace the thermostat. You must install the plug under the cap, the rubber cap degrades in time and will leak.

"$28 Upgrade" parts list

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