Replacing/rebuilding Polaris 2000 700

CHIA_PET74 · Mar 17, 2011

Hello,
I recently purchased a 2000 700 RMK 136" for a pretty good price. I now know why. I had a mechanic give it a once over and replace spark plug wires, fix choke switch, etc. While he was doing this he did a compression test and said one side is 73 psi, which ain't good. I'd like to step up and pull this engine out and rebuild it or replace it with an 800. Any suggestions?
Thanks.

rdr99 · Mar 17, 2011

Just rebuild the 700, it is a great motor.

CHIA_PET74 · Mar 18, 2011

Thanks rdr99. Do you see any problem with making it a 144"?

skibreeze · Mar 18, 2011

agreed, good motor. go for it.

CHIA_PET74 · Mar 18, 2011

Thanks Guys, glad I got the 700. Thinking about extending track also. I get around pretty good behind the house even in waist deep but haven't hit any real hills or anything yet. Is it just a matter of going fast and having her tuned really well to hang with my buddies' 153's? Thanks again, any advice is greatly appreciated!

rmkboxer · Mar 18, 2011

it won't be like the new sleds, think of how much money you have in it and how much they do. I've been in both seats. gear the sled at 19/41 clutching is the key on all sleds. depending how long you have been riding experience also helps. 151's work great on those sleds

CHIA_PET74 · Mar 18, 2011

Understood that it won't be a new sled, I just want to be able to get to where they're going. Thanks for the advice. I'll check out some other threads for changing the track out. You'd suggest a 151 over a 144? Bigger is better?

CHIA_PET74 · Mar 18, 2011

What is the difference between VES and non VES? Is one better than the other or do I even have the option with a 2000 motor. Thank again for advice, I'm gonna learn on the fly with some help from a neighbor/retired engineer.

rdr99 · Mar 18, 2011

VES wasn't available until 2002.

RMK4life · Mar 19, 2011

I would definetly go with a 151 over a 144. You could get around with a 144 but youre going to have to work a little bit harder to get where your buddies are going. Its a pretty simple swap. All youll need is the track tunnel and rail extensions.

CHIA_PET74 · Mar 19, 2011

Thanks again guys. I took her out today just cause it keeps snowing and now have some new issues. My drive belt is "slipping" for lack of a better term. Also a light saying prem only came on for maybe a minute. I did take the ACCS off(ran exhaust to airbox, capped source from carb). Any suggestions?

151" is starting to sound good. Its' chest deep right now in spots, so bigger would be sweet!

eric_in_ak · Mar 20, 2011

The premium only light is an option on the key. I found this out after hitting it with my knee. The middle position on the ignition is premium only and the farther one to the right is normal unleaded. It advances the timing on that setting.

retiredpop · Mar 20, 2011

CHIA_PET74 said:
Thanks again guys. I took her out today just cause it keeps snowing and now have some new issues. My drive belt is "slipping" for lack of a better term.

Do you mean over revving or squealing?

CHIA_PET74 · Mar 20, 2011

I was on some relatively packed stuff and basically had to walk beside her to get get going. Then we stopped and I gave gas and watched the belt spinning but not really engaging. Wasn't going to super crazy rpm's or anything(4000 ish, little higher) SO we got her going again by pushing and a couple minutes later I'm going great. As soon as I let off gas and then hit gas again I'm back to same problem with sled just not wanting to go. Even on hardpack, doesn't matter. Replace belt and adjust those three screws on the secondary? Slipping from water?
I did take the ACCS off and noticed an immediate improvement, until this happened about 3 minutes later. The joys of used snowmobiles!!

rdr99 · Mar 22, 2011

Was the belt burning/smoking? There are a few causes of belt slip: Is snow getting on the clutches while riding? Is it the proper belt? Should be a 3211065. Are the clutches clean? Is there excessive drag on the track? Melted hyfax, track too tight, drive chain too tight, gearing wrong, appropiate oil in chaincase, brake sticking, excessive snow/ice buildup in tunnel. Where is the belt riding in the secondary? Top of the belt should be approximately 1/8" above the sheaves. Are the clutch springs in good shape, not broken or sacked out?

CHIA_PET74 · Mar 22, 2011

I think the belt was just wore out. Super slack, and God know how old. I replaced the belt and still wasnt going anywhere. Wasn't really slipping anymore though. So I took carbs apart and the throttle cable in the mag carb was toast. So replaced that and am now figuring out where those lines on the oil pump are to align the nuts on throttle cable with and how to know how much to screw the cap on the carbs(if that makes any sense) I know they should be tight but you can adust the height of the cap it looks like. I've learned a lot in the last couple weeks. Thanks everyone for your help!

FEZ · Mar 24, 2011

Now that you have taken the ACCS off you need to set up the carbs correctly:

What you need to run:

1371G needles in #3
38 pilots
and run 2 sizes leaner on the main for your elevation from what
Polaris recommends on a 2000 700 SKS.

How many miles on the machine?

Probably needs clutch work. I.E. new springs, weights, maybe new rollers in the primary along with bushings in both clutches.

I also recommend going to a 151. I went to a 144 on mine and most of the time it is enough, and I have been riding for 25+ years in the mountains so that helps, but if I could do it over again I would have gone straight to the 151. And get either a Challenger or a Series 4 IMO. I run 18-41 in my 700 for 6-9K. Works great in the trees but with a stock helix will lose a little on the longer pulls. Adding a more aggessive helix mitigates this but that takes some tuning to get it right

You can run a power mad pivot adaptor handlebar riser with a 2" block. This totals 3 1/2" which is the max on the stock cables. Some slight bending of the brake line may be necessary. Lose the swaybar and set the front end to skinny position.

CHIA_PET74 · Mar 24, 2011

Thanks. She's got 3400 miles so I'm sure the clutches need some work too. When you say the needle in #3, what does that mean? Jets are 45's, I'll look into the ones you suggested. I'm in Tahoe, so pretty much run at 6-9k.

Once I get this engine rocking I'm all over the track extension, pretty sure I'll go with your advice and go with 151.

Fortunately I already have risers, but I feel like the steering post is weak. I'm 210 lb's and sometimes it seems like I'm bending it. I'm gonna see if a shop around here can fab me a cro moly or titanium on.

Thanks again guys. The responses are really helping me out.

keefer · Mar 25, 2011

There is a guy using the name wildchild on here that makes cromoly stearing posts.

CHIA_PET74 · Mar 29, 2011

I have pm'ed and emailed wildchild. His website says gen 2 posts are unavailable for 2010 season. Thinking about puling mine out and taking to local machinist.
I'm waiting on new jets and needles, she's already running so much better after taking the ACCS off.

At 6-9k how many turns of air screw? I've got it at 1. Thanks.

Replacing/rebuilding Polaris 2000 700

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