"2014 Broken Connecting Rod, 100 miles, Why?"

ApeSh*tBananas · Dec 29, 2015

So last weekend had my 2014 Std Rmk bottom end grenade. Sled had 100 or so miles on it mostly trail (Bad Snow last year). I finally got it off the mountain a week later and snapped a picture before taking it to the shop today. Broken Connecting rod on clutch side. What would cause this. Sled was properly broken In, Vented oil cap, Polaris oil, Non ethanol 91. Has anyone had this happen or can chime in. I want to make sure it does not happen again.

Sheetmetalfab · Dec 29, 2015

My brothers 11 did that at 2800 miles.
Did the sled sit in a high humidity environment for the last 2 years?
His was determined to be a siezed lower rod bearing.
A rusted bearing might have blown like that.
with that low of miles a manufacturing defect is more likely.

cascadesnowjunky · Dec 29, 2015

Probably nothing you did, I would say defective parts. These isolated incidents can happen with any mechanical parts. Hopefully you have warranty otherwise that will be a very spendy fix.

ApeSh*tBananas · Dec 29, 2015

Sled was bought new last year as a hold over. Kept sled outside under cover, started twice over summer between last ride of last year and first ride of this year. Sled ran perfect not a hiccup. Had no warning lights, temp was 120 at last check. I honestly thought I blew a belt, until my coolant started pouring out of the sled before I could open the side panel. I didn't see no rust or blueing on the rod?

LoudHandle · Dec 29, 2015

My bet is bearing failure, most likely the lower (more Leverage on the rod), the upper typically just gets hot, blues and stretches until it parts and frees the piston. If you are using synthetic oil it's viscosity is too low to keep the internals coated with an oil film, which allows rust to form on the steel parts / bearing surfaces. Which will lead to premature failure. Also storing it in the summer, outdoors with the cover on, results in a condensation trap (due to the natural thermal cycling between day and night) and can accelerate the formation of surface rust on the engine internals. As well as water in the fuel and oil tanks.

FWIW

Hope they take care of it, and expeditiously. Good Luck!

Drewd · Dec 29, 2015

Sorry that happened to you. Please make sure wife knows that the only solution to your issue is to get an Axys since Polaris doesn't sell parts for older generation sleds anymore :eyebrows: :eyebrows:

ApeSh*tBananas · Dec 30, 2015

LoudHandle said:
My bet is bearing failure, most likely the lower (more Leverage on the rod), the upper typically just gets hot, blues and stretches until it parts and frees the piston. If you are using synthetic oil it's viscosity is too low to keep the internals coated with an oil film, which allows rust to form on the steel parts / bearing surfaces. Which will lead to premature failure. Also storing it in the summer, outdoors with the cover on, results in a condensation trap (due to the natural thermal cycling between day and night) and can accelerate the formation of surface rust on the engine internals. As well as water in the fuel and oil tanks.

FWIW

Hope they take care of it, and expeditiously. Good Luck!

For the last 15 years I've stored my sleds on trailer cover on under the carport roof on the side of the garage. Im not saying it's the right way, but I've never had a problem with rust or the sleds sweating. I wish there was room in the garage, there's just not. As far as oil goes, I'm using the polaris ves 2-cycle that the owner's manual recommends? What oil do you use and or prefer? It didn't look like there was any rust on the lower collar of the connecting rod. I could see a couple dots of rust on crank, but that could of been new, the sled sat on the mountain for a week during a huge storm cycle, sled was half full of snow and covered up to the handle bars. That new axys is looking better and better everyday.

LoudHandle · Dec 30, 2015

ApeSh*tBananas said:
For the last 15 years I've stored my sleds on trailer cover on under the carport roof on the side of the garage. Im not saying it's the right way, but I've never had a problem with rust or the sleds sweating. I wish there was room in the garage, there's just not. As far as oil goes, I'm using the polaris ves 2-cycle that the owner's manual recommends? What oil do you use and or prefer? It didn't look like there was any rust on the lower collar of the connecting rod. I could see a couple dots of rust on crank, but that could of been new, the sled sat on the mountain for a week during a huge storm cycle, sled was half full of snow and covered up to the handle bars. That new axys is looking better and better everyday.

Dew point, ambient temperature, and other environmental factors all add in to the condensation forming or not forming. It is ridiculous here in Alaska on the coast as our summertime high average is 65-70 degrees F and cools off a lot at night.

My oil preference in the newer dry case engines is Legend. It is still petroleum so it protects the internals better than the synthetics, yet retains a ultra low pour point.

I have an enclosed trailer, so I don't use covers, but even in the enclosed if I don't open the windows / vent in the summer it rains condensation due to our conditions here.

Vincenthdfan · Dec 30, 2015

Maybe go back to the olden days of fogging the motor when putting the sled into storage mode for the off-season??

I know that's one of the big problems Indy Dan always mentioned in the past was storage and dry motors because of synthetic oils.

That's why he used to be such a big proponent of Catrol Dino oils.

AZ800 · Dec 30, 2015

I get the whole condensation thing but let's face it, this was a defect. I take really good care of all my stuff, but like 99% of people, I don't fog anything unless maybe I think it will be sitting for years.

BILTIT · Dec 31, 2015

Will it be covered under warranty?

If not, long rod it (indy specialties). He will fix the cases up and be a much better engine afterwards.

CO Powder · Dec 31, 2015

Does fogging the engine really work for the lower end bearings on the CFI2 motor? I know it is in the owners manual to do so, which could be a point of contention for them but, can that protect the bottom end from rust?

Caper · Dec 31, 2015

I have an Engine from a 2014 polaris 800 for sale with only 430 miles on it if it's not covered under warranty.

ApeSh*tBananas · Dec 31, 2015

BILTIT said:
Will it be covered under warranty?

If not, long rod it (indy specialties). He will fix the cases up and be a much better engine afterwards.

Yes polaris is taking care of it. I think it was one of those one in million type deals, having a connecting rod break what else can you say but sh*t happens. I had a 2014 xm before this sled loved the suspension, motor, and fit and finish, but that chassis is terrible. I fought it for 250 miles and sold it. Storm cycle is over, I missed most of it but should get my sled back next week

jhurkot · Jan 3, 2016

My 2014 has had 2 lower rod bearing failures. Have heard of a few from friends as well. Dealer turned my oiler all the way up. Wonder if there was a bad batch of parts...

Reg2view · Jan 11, 2016

Yes to fogging does get to the bottom end through the throttle bodies.

A look at the rod bearing out of the sled will tell you if it was corrosion seizure or defect. I've had rod bearings go running low detergent synthetic Amsoil Race/Dominator, even tho motor was fogged in summer. Oil, hours, and environment can make the difference alone. Hole in case from excessive runout is typical before a corroded bearing seizes and snaps rod. I'm guessing defect.

ApeSh*tBananas · Jan 11, 2016

Reg2view said:
Yes to fogging does get to the bottom end through the throttle bodies.

A look at the rod bearing out of the sled will tell you if it was corrosion seizure or defect. I've had rod bearings go running low detergent synthetic Amsoil Race/Dominator, even tho motor was fogged in summer. Oil, hours, and environment can make the difference alone. Hole in case from excessive runout is typical before a corroded bearing seizes and snaps rod. I'm guessing defect.

No corrosion on either top or bottom bearings, it was a defective rod. Sled had less miles then I thought I was at 82 miles. I was the lucky one ?. Sled was 20 days out of warranty. I have a great dealer and very thankful that polaris took care of it.

sleddin pete · Jan 12, 2016

ApeSh*tBananas said:
No corrosion on either top or bottom bearings, it was a defective rod. Sled had less miles then I thought I was at 82 miles. I was the lucky one ?. Sled was 20 days out of warranty. I have a great dealer and very thankful that polaris took care of it.

Glad they warrantied for you and the dealer stood behind you.Obviously at that amount of miles it was a manufacturer defect.
Lesson learned I hope for many.Get the 3 year extended warranty for $500 more.Will you need it....Maybe,,, but if you were offered the option and declined it and it blew hole thru the case you'll be out $5000+ for a new crate motor plus install.
Speaking from experience,I bought an 11 Pro RMK snowcheck with the option of money off or 4 year warranty.Chose the warranty,a wise choice,2505 miles at 3 years it blew up,piston,cylinder,hole in case.Total loss,$50 dollar deductible plus shop fees(oil, antifreeze,shop supplies).
My dealer will sell a sled with 1 year warranty but recommends the 3 year.I'll always spend the extra for piece of mind.'

Search

"2014 Broken Connecting Rod, 100 miles, Why?"

ApeSh*tBananas

Well-known member

Sheetmetalfab

Well-known member

cascadesnowjunky

Well-known member

ApeSh*tBananas

Well-known member

LoudHandle

Well-known member

Drewd

Well-known member

ApeSh*tBananas

Well-known member

LoudHandle

Well-known member

Vincenthdfan

Well-known member

AZ800

Free Member

BILTIT

Well-known member

CO Powder

Free Member

Caper

Free Member

ApeSh*tBananas

Well-known member

jhurkot

Well-known member

Reg2view

Well-known member

ApeSh*tBananas

Well-known member

sleddin pete

Well-known member

Similar threads