700 gen II wont run in powder

McLaughlin_7 · Dec 9, 2012

i have a 2000 700 with a 144 and slp twin pipes and a fresh engine went out for first today and got in to some deep snow drifts and and the engine was losing power and acted like it was loading up with fuel get out on some flat and pin the throttle and takes a while to clean it out and still kinda blubbery at wide open have tried everything dont know what else to try

X2Freeride · Dec 9, 2012

You say it has a fresh engine, what happened to the old engine?

What temp, what jets, new or old fuel, running an air box not running an air box. More info required.

xc_rider08 · Dec 9, 2012

McLaughlin_7 said:
i have a 2000 700 with a 144 and slp twin pipes and a fresh engine went out for first today and got in to some deep snow drifts and and the engine was losing power and acted like it was loading up with fuel get out on some flat and pin the throttle and takes a while to clean it out and still kinda blubbery at wide open have tried everything dont know what else to try

need more info. .but u running some mixed gas??? how do the plugs look?? lots of variables yet to be found

treetopflyer · Dec 9, 2012

Limited information here but ill take a stab at it. You say it loads up when playing in powder and drifts, Clears up on flats when you open it up.

Many possibilities here. Time to cross some off the list.

Ive personally had this happen more than once,You have to look to see if the exhaust snow gaurd is still attached to the belly pan in front of exhaust outlet. If it missing and your jumping drifts or sidehilling on that side the exhaust will fill with snow and load the motor up creating a rich condition.

McLaughlin_7 · Dec 9, 2012

the old engine scored on piston so started fresh from the ground up new crank,pistons jugs etc, running around 1800 feet and it was around 10 degrees today, right now i am running a the stock keihan carbs and have a 205 main jet fresh 92 octane gas and fresh plugs and wires plugs a are like a dark brown colored took boroscope to it and the burn pattern on pistons loks real good still using stock air box but i tok the baffle out of the middle of it

BB454 · Dec 9, 2012

If it ran ok before you scored the piston and you didn't change anything then I would look at the belt and clutch springs. If you haven't changed them in a couple of seasons then I would suspect they are dead.

McLaughlin_7 · Dec 10, 2012

so so far today i have replaced plugs, wires, boots and made new snow deflector for exhaust and put new grommet around hole, cleaned the carbs again and rebuilt primary clutch its a little better but still blubbery in powder and at high rpm and help would be great dont know what else to do

X2Freeride · Dec 10, 2012

What pilot jets and what needles are you running? These carbs are SUPER finicky when it come to needles and pilot jets.

Put the shelf back in the air box, ensure the vent lines are hood up to the carbs and the airbox.

The other thing that I would check is verify that your TPS voltage is correct.

camppowersports · Dec 10, 2012

205 seems a little fat for main jets. I ran 185s in Mine. I think Polaris recommends 185 mag and 190 pto

FEZ · Dec 22, 2012

camppowersports said:
205 seems a little fat for main jets. I ran 185s in Mine. I think Polaris recommends 185 mag and 190 pto

He has twin pipes so needs more fuel.

What did you change on the sled besides rebuilding the motor? You mentioned the shelf in the airbox. Put it back if it ran fine with it.

Check the water traps on the carbs. The hoses deteriorate from the inside causing bits of rubber hose to get into the carbs. This casues the float needle to not seat properly causing a rich condition.

The snow deflector is good to do , especially with twin pipes. Have you replaced the float needles? How many miles on the sled? The seats in these carbs are not replaceable and do wear out over time.

McLaughlin_7 · Dec 23, 2012

noit ran the same without the shelf the needle are only about two seasons old and i replaced te drain tubes this last summer before riding, made a new slightly bigger deflector the can stuck past the old one a bit but still didnt change anything there is about 4500 on sled only 300 on new motor might try a new set of carbs probably go to flat slide everyone says the are night and day difference and now we dont have enough snow to do some more test and tune

retiredpop · Dec 23, 2012

You didn't happen to lose the airbox chimney that seals the airbox intake to the bottom of the hood? I'm thinking you may be sucking snow into the air box from the hood vents instead of pulling air from behind the windshield through the filter material.

McLaughlin_7 · Dec 23, 2012

no still have the foam peice and i dont have a windshield havent rode with one for years and it has ran great before with out it i dunno what to do next about ready to just say the hell with it and go buy a new pro tired of fighting with this one

rmk4ever · Dec 30, 2012

Who did the crankcase? Might be too much "crush" on the fittment of case/bearings. It will not let the motor "wind up" don't ask me how I know.

cascadesnowjunky · Dec 30, 2012

exhaust plugging with snow, been down that road in the past. twin piped sleds are way more prone to that than single piped sleds fo some reason.:face-icon-small-win

Fitz! · Dec 30, 2012

It could also partly be your driven clutch. If RPM's drop when you go from trail to powder at same throttle position then you need to tighten up you Driven spring.

McLaughlin_7 · Jan 1, 2013

havent had any snow to try it out lately but i am thinking big part is the carbs are shot let it sit overnight in garage one night left the gas on and there was a big puddle under it the next day i got a set of racks for it just have to get them installed

montanagrizzly · Jan 3, 2013

I would be willing to bet you are suckin snow through the carbs or at least steam from the snow melting on the pipes. Had that happen to me. Acted the exact same way.

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700 gen II wont run in powder

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