Drive and ratio differences

I just did the MC conversion on my 2014 pro-lite so I understand where you're at with your sled. The lower gear on the MC is two piece with a separate center hub. You have to install the hub first, then the outer part of the gear and bolt them together once they are in there. The driveshaft sits so low that you can't get the solid belt drive sprocket on through the stock cutout in the chassis. I think Tom told me the overall diameter changed to help clear something else, but I don't remember exactly. So to keep the same ratio you have you need new lower sprocket, top sprocket, cover, and the longer belt. I ended up just selling my used belt drive kit and getting a whole new MC kit since I'm running oil delete too. Drive shafts are the same for all intensive purposes. If you get a new MC driveshaft (if it's available) it might save you a little weight.

Rear suspension requires rails, front arm shock, rear shock pull rod, and the part numbers changed for the rear idler arm. Front arm is the same. Get the little mountain cat idler wheel that goes in the center of the front arm too. If you are using non-MC rails you will have to trim rail caps to clear the drivers. I completely swapped my skid for a Kmod, but if I was going to upgrade the skid with stock I'd be watching for someone with a takeoff skid.

I'm running 2.54 ratio with 8T drivers, 162 X 2.6 track, 900 big bore, 260lb (street clothes) rider, and 8-10,000 elevation. I'd like to get a 3" under it next year. Tom was doing some kind of deal where he'd just sell you the parts you need or trade some parts in, but I don't know if he's still doing that. Might have to call him and see. Going from the non-MC to MC belt drive the only thing you can re-use is the tank/brackets, tensioner, and the bearings/seals that are already installed.

Tom set my dad up with 2.64 ratio for his stock '17 MC with the 8T and 162X3 track. His recommendation for 153X3 with 8T is 2.54.