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Mountain Horse Bearing Broke

S
Nov 5, 2012
47
8
8
I got a used 2012 Timbersled a few weeks ago and have been really loving it...at least until the other day when the drive shaft fell down of the chassis on the left side. It appears that the bearing housing blew apart but I'm not sure exactly what all happened. I order a new bearing housing part #2206759 ASM-Bearing Housing and this is what the chart looks like https://www.parts-polaris.uk/polari...__J11_J15_ALL_OPTIONS_600467/2660/101048.html

This is my first maintenance project on this, so does anyone have advice on fixing this? Or, advice on making sure this doesn't happen again.
 
M
Jan 14, 2004
3,079
1,390
113
If it still has the old single row bearing setup, lose that and switch over to the dual row system. You will need a new driveshaft or you will need to have yours machined to accept the extra bearings. Might just as well switch over to a splined gear driveshaft while you are at it. Use SKF bearings.


M5
 

CATSLEDMAN1

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
2,630
1,207
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Missoula, Montana
bearing failure

the single row bearings require replacement at least once a year , more if you have hp and ride a lot.

converting to the newer splined counter shaft with the double row bearing will increase the life of the bearing by maybe 2x. I tore down my double row bearings this month in anticipation of heading out on vacation with my bike and wanting no problems 300 miles from home, out of the 7 bearing on my TS, only one bearing was usable.
If you convert, just buy 6205 double sealed bearings at NAPA or bearing shop or off the net, no advantage to the grease able bearings, failure will always be from stress not lack of lubrication.

Recently some of the minor parts to make the conversion have been on back order. The shaft/sprockets are the critical parts, IF you have a way to cut fairly accurate spacers out of 1" id heavy wall pipe and the parts blowup show the spacer lengths you need. You can save your self $150 and lots of messing around if you take your new splined shaft to a machine shop and have one of the female splines on the brake disc end ( short spline end ) cut to a 1/4" keyway to run your old brake disc. This simpler conversion does require making two odd spacers but nothing complicated, you will have additional splined shaft extending beyond the old brake disc and you need to make a spacer so you can tighten a nut on the brake disc end.

Replacing the two bolt single row bearing cups with the 4 bolt does require acurate drilling to keep everything in alignment. The original conversion kits had a guide plate to make it a 2 minute fail proof operation. I have one in my TS junk drawer and would rent it to you for price of shipping and deposit to get it back.
 
Last edited:
S
Nov 5, 2012
47
8
8
Thanks for the detailed feedback. I have the double bearing housings coming from Polaris. So what would be the other parts I should get for the conversion? A drive shaft with splines & new sprocket (from Polaris)?

I'm unclear on how the disc brake is involved unless you are replacing bearings on the jack shaft too.
 

CATSLEDMAN1

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
2,630
1,207
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Missoula, Montana
complete overhaul

my post is referring to replacing top and bottom shafts and bearings.

If you don't replace the shafts they will eventully crack through the keyways, bolts will back out, shaft end falls off or sprocket breaks in half a long ways from the truck. Our group has experienced some of all of the above.

the later model TS with splined shafts has a different brake disc and different brake caliper mounting. So if you try and update your whole kit with both shafts and newer brake disc you have to modify your frame work and relocate your caliper to work with the later disc.
 
K

kell8071

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2013
216
48
28
Vashon, WA
My opinion: just do the double bearing conversion if you already have the parts, that will get you years of riding. While in there check your shafts for cracks but i dont think the failure rate is nearly as dramatic as what previous posts have said.

Also my experience has been the opposite, bearings fail from moistire and not loading.

Kell
 
S
Nov 5, 2012
47
8
8
One thing I have found out is that Timbersled support is now horrid since Polaris bought it. I've wasted countless time talking to Polaris dealers in Idaho, Oregon, and Washington and still don't have the parts I need to fix it.

Right now I have two new #2206759 ASM-Bearing Housing but it doesn't come with the extra bolts or template to convert from 2 to 4 bolts. I'm unclear on whether the 2012 driveshaft will fit this bearing or not. CATSLEDMAN1 offered up a guide plate by mail, but I was wondering if there is a quicker option or paper template I can print. Also, I'm unclear on what else I need to install the bearings that Polaris said were all I needed.
 
P

PalousePoo

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
882
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Farmington, Wash.
Or, you could get a take off shaft and single bearing housings from the countless number of guys on here that have done the conversion, and have those parts sitting around the shop in a corner, for probably the free, plus the cost of shipping. This would get you back on the snow for the rest of the season
 
S
Nov 5, 2012
47
8
8
Or, you could get a take off shaft and single bearing housings from the countless number of guys on here that have done the conversion, and have those parts sitting around the shop in a corner, for probably the free, plus the cost of shipping. This would get you back on the snow for the rest of the season

I was starting to think along those lines. Anyone have some old bearings I can just plug in and keep riding? I found out the Polaris part number for the single row bearings is 2206758 for what it is worth.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Lifetime Membership
Oct 5, 2010
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……..
I was starting to think along those lines. Anyone have some old bearings I can just plug in and keep riding? I found out the Polaris part number for the single row bearings is 2206758 for what it is worth.

Haul your bearings to a local bearing supplier.
Get replacements.
 
K

kell8071

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2013
216
48
28
Vashon, WA
Pretty sure the bearings are 6205-2RS, can be has for cheap on amazon. Not greasable like the polaris ones but they will be fine.

Kell
 

Hawkster

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Apr 22, 2010
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AK
There is nothing unusual about that bearing . Very common and any parts store/warehouse should have cases of them .

For someone that wanted to fix the problem or at least make a bearing last longer a cylindrical bearing would be more up to the job on the current skids .
 
M
Jan 14, 2004
3,079
1,390
113
I got a used 2012 Timbersled a few weeks ago and have been really loving it...at least until the other day when the drive shaft fell down of the chassis on the left side. It appears that the bearing housing blew apart but I'm not sure exactly what all happened. I order a new bearing housing part #2206759 ASM-Bearing Housing and this is what the chart looks like https://www.parts-polaris.uk/polari...__J11_J15_ALL_OPTIONS_600467/2660/101048.html

This is my first maintenance project on this, so does anyone have advice on fixing this? Or, advice on making sure this doesn't happen again.


Just re reading your original post and you said the drive shaft fell, have you checked the drive shaft itself to make sure the end hasn't sheared off. All the focus has been on your bearings.

M5
 
S
Nov 5, 2012
47
8
8
Just re reading your original post and you said the drive shaft fell, have you checked the drive shaft itself to make sure the end hasn't sheared off. All the focus has been on your bearings.

M5

Thanks for double checking, but the shaft seems to be all good, it is attached to the sprocket still and just sitting down on the chassis. I can see the actual bearing blown out of the casing.
 
S
Nov 5, 2012
47
8
8
Fixed

Just a follow up to say thanks to the forum community for helping me with the fix. I got some bearings off Amazon based on the bearing number mentioned for 10 for $20 shipped. I swapped out the bearing on the left side, which required some specialty tools such as gear puller, punch (to drive the old bearing out of the housing), and proper size ring for pressing the bearing in using a vise (of which we used the rings off the old broken bearing).

It has been running fine since, but this was just a temporary fix, as my post also prompted another member to let me know he had an extra conversion kit that I was able to purchase from him and now have it to put on this summer.

Having fun on our good spring snowpack now!
 
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