Mystik 0W-40 engine oil

I have been using their full synthetic snowmobile oil for years now as it is very economical=cheap, for a full synthetic oil. I still get lots of smoke and smell but that is how it is with 2-smokes. On sale, it is a great deal in the gallon jugs that I bought years ago.

I went looking for a 5W or 0W and was happy to see that my local O'Reilys had the 0W-40 so I bought 4 quarts then went online and saw that there is a $2 rebate per quart thru 01/28, here is the rebate form here: https://www.farmandfleet.com/uploads/rebates/2093.pdf

The online part is here: https://mystiklubes.4myrebate.com/Claim/OfferDetailsNewGrid/?Offercd=MYS-18001
I'm not particular about oil and tend to buy the cheapest, but best stuff I can get and change it out more often. I'm going to drop the full syn 5W-30 I have in the engine sump now and put the 0W-40 Mystik in sometime this week.

I found out that my BIL's 2008 CRF450X also has a separate x-mission and engine sump for the oils as his needs an engine oil change as he had started it up to warm up the other day while it was warm out and he let it idle for too long and the motor was revving high and boiling over so to help things we'll change the oil and top up the coolant this weekend.

Anyone else use this oil?

Ha! While I am a quasi-weekend ranch-hand, it is my BIL that is the farmer. Farmer of animals.

I'm going to buy the last two bottles, unless they put more on the shelf today, tonight as $2-off per bottle, at $7.49 per bottle is not a bad price, ends up $5.49 per quart, plus tax.

I'm going to shove my trailer into the garage after work so I can change the oil tonight, if I'm up to it.

I've now got 6 quarts of the stuff and I'm planning on running it in both my engine sump and my separate x-mission as my clutch sticks when it gets really cold out so I'm hoping that the 0W will help that. When it is cold and I go to put the bike into gear, it slams into gear and the bike stalls as the clutch plates are sticking together and not releasing. I then let the engine warm up some more and keep pulling the clutch lever to see if it helps get the plates to release.

I normally run an expensive Motul Transoil Expert in the gearcase and whatever I got for the motor side provided it is a full synthetic motor oil.

I'm one of those who has run this, that and the other thing, in all my motors over the years and it works because stuff keeps on working.

I do use synthetic everything so at least I got that going for me.

The bike is running just greaaaaaaaaaaaaat on the oil.

Granted, I had started the bike at around 35-degrees this morning so that the bike had no trouble at all with getting running. I will say, though, that the clutch plates still stuck despite the engine having warmed up to 120 degrees. I pulled the clutch a bunch of times, let the temp go up another 10 degrees to 130-F and the bike snicked right into gear.

If there is anything to this 0W-40, at least with the oil in the motor, I'll just know that I can't get a more liquid substance in my gearbox and engine sump than the 0W and just know that I'm still protected once everything is warmed up and running hard with 40 weight oil.

The motor was up over 200 all day today, 217 or so but never past 224 as 224 Farenheit has been the all time max this past winter as the Trail Tech holds the max temp. My bike did come with a fan so that has to be the reason it has not gotten past it, yet. It did get up to at least 40-F today and we had just enough snow on the trails to have another great time riding on the loose granular snow.

It was only 10 degrees this past Thursday morning but even with the 0W-40, the bike still had a hard time getting started. I don't think the issue is with the oil rather, I think it is just that the battery doesn't have the CCA's to get the motor turned over fast enough or something along that line.

While I didn't need to break out the Weego JS12, eventually I got the bike started.