What insulation to use for enclosed trailer?

Supplicate · Dec 11, 2007

So after wasting three hours worth of propane and having the sleds still be frozen solid, I need to insulate my trailer.

Any suggestions on what insulation to use? Any ideas on prices of insulation?

MARV1 · Dec 11, 2007

Blue board or some of that insulated reflective stuff.

Supplicate · Dec 11, 2007

MARV1 said:
insulated reflective stuff.

you mean the insulation for heater ducts? Is that stuff worth a damn for this application?

tmk50 · Dec 11, 2007

I bought the 4' x 8' sheets of the styrofoam from Home Depot or Lowes, we used some old steak knives to cut the pieces. I used 1" thick stuff on the walls, and 1.5" thick on the ceiling.

NWGooser · Dec 11, 2007

Any of the rigid work real well. If you go with a fiber type insulation make sure it is not moisture sensative. I would also suggest covering it with an F.R.P. product. Fill the gaps with expanding foam, cover it with FRP and Bob's you uncle. A nice warm trailer.

noob · Dec 11, 2007

you want an honest opinion. sell the trailer and get a trailer with the insulation already in it. I did this to mine, what a pain in the arse. I went to one of my clients (home heating and a/c) and got a roll of this tinfoil/insulation setup and used that. my trailer is like a sauna now.

Supplicate · Dec 11, 2007

noob said:
sell the trailer

Thanks for the opinion, but not really possible for me.

Double A · Dec 11, 2007

Anyone insulate behind the wallboards or above ceiling panels?

Could you blow some in like they do in houses?

tudizzle · Dec 11, 2007

I've been looking for something to insulate mine as well. Gets warm but doesn't stay without the heater cranking. I have been leaning toward the 1 inch sheets with the foil covering. You can get a 4x8 sheet for 13$ at HD. I was going to put it in between the ribbing on the roof and see what the difference is. If it still needs help I will cover the walls as well.

sledhauler07 · Dec 11, 2007

I was looking into this myself. The trailer (custom mirage) is finished inside both walls and ceiling. The problem with blow in insulation on the walls is that there is no bottom on the trailer. It would simply fall out because the floor doesn't extend to the outside panels. You can look up under the trailer on yours and see if it is the same...

Blown in may work in the ceiling but you still have to create "access" holes and depending on the type of blower, you may not be able to blow from one end to the other so that means several holes.

To that end. I plan to use "silver board" for the job on the walls and an appropriate sized batt style for the ceiling. The board is a high density foam board with a reflective surface (silver) that will help retain heat. I used to install steel roofs and this was a common way to increase R factor and make a smooth surface for the steel. With the batt blankets you can drop one side and push it to the other side pretty easy if there aren't a bunch of wires in the way. Unfortunately, there is no way to get around pulling the inside wall panels down to install the silver board... that sucks!

Love to hear a better idea :light: before I start in on this project.

Brad

Double A · Dec 11, 2007

Do you know where to get the foil and how much it is?

I can buy some stuff called Temptrol (reflectics), in bulk. Supposed to reflect 90 some % heat but yet it breathes as well so maybe it wouldnt condensate so much? I think it comes 60 inches wide x 50 or 100 yds rolls. A 50 yd. would do a 24' to 28' trailer off the top of my head.

sledhauler07 · Dec 11, 2007

I'm sure you can buy the foam board with reflective surface at home depot or lowes or any other building supply store. Not sure how much it costs. I roll on product would be an easy install if you have a way to "fix" it in place. Also in your favor is that you don't have to remove and the re-install inside panels.

I'm wishing now that I had this done when I ordered the trailer... has alot of other options. Guess lesson learned.

Double A · Dec 11, 2007

I was thinking to use snaps to hold it in place. If a guy did that he could pull it out at anytime for numerous reasons.

LSB · Dec 11, 2007

Supplicate said:
So after wasting three hours worth of propane and having the sleds still be frozen solid, I need to insulate my trailer.

Any suggestions on what insulation to use? Any ideas on prices of insulation?

First off, before you go and do a major job like insulating the trailer, your comment begs a question. What type of heater are you running? I have a trailer that I have added a lot of stuff to but insulation isnt one of them. BUT the heater I have in it will have you in a t-shirt in a couple of minutes. Point is that a better heater could be a way easier install. I have a 100lb tank that would last a LONG time if you were only using it a couple of hours at a time, like to dress, undress, thaw things out, etc.

Supplicate · Dec 11, 2007

I guess I should post a pic of my trailer so you guys could understand my question a bit better:

I have a two burner "Mr Heater" that mounts on the tank in there, 28,000 btu on high. Can't mount a "good" heater like most people are doing. As you can see in the third pic its an open rib interior, would be cake to install insulation.

Also have to refloor the bugger soon, a few of the plywood floor sections are bad enough you feel like you might fall through. Planing on sloping the floor slightly to ge the water not to puddle like it does.

tudizzle · Dec 11, 2007

that trailer is a trip! whats the heat for, just to melt the snow and dry the sleds?

Supplicate · Dec 11, 2007

tudizzle said:
that trailer is a trip! whats the heat for, just to melt the snow and dry the sleds?

yeah, after the last ride the sleds are solid blocks of ice. Trying to get em thawed out a bit before hitting it again. Thats the problem when it snows the whole trail back to the trailer and it hasn't been above 30° F since.

MtnCrazy · Dec 11, 2007

I think your problem is...the trailer won't hold any heat when the roof is up?

Double A · Dec 11, 2007

Thats a cool trailer Supplicate. Did you build that? Looks aerodynamic!

I use an Olympic Wave 8 catalytic heater in mine. Its only 8000 BTU max. uses about 1/3 pound per hour. It will heat a 24' up to 75 plus degrees on the thermometer when it is 35 degrees outside but it takes 5 or 6 hours! Found this out when I left it running while riding the other day! Oops...felt good getting undressed though. I might do that again.

sledhauler07 · Dec 11, 2007

holy crap! that is a cool trailer. I've never seen anything like that. Probably pulls great... mine is just the opposite. It is a foot taller than normal and has 30 amp electric, sky lights, 2 roof vents wired for ac, 22' roll out awning, RV door on curb side, cataletic heater... we use it for camping / motox in the summer and sledding in the winter.

another problem I had last week was the heater shut off on the road upto the parking lot. It was the first trip with the new heater. Is it possible for the line to freeze and stop the flow? The tank is on the front like a normal RV. If so, has anyone figured out a fix. It ran fine later...

What insulation to use for enclosed trailer?

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