2004 800 rmk Broke Crank-Where to now?

sledheader · Dec 8, 2014

Talked to JJ machinery today. They recieved my core last friday. They said they are a couple of weeks out but since I contacted him last week, he was going to try to get on it sooner than that. Hoping in the next week or so.

He ended up knocking some money off of the lower end rebuild as well as giving me a break on the pistons. Said he hasn't had to warranty one yet but he will give a 1 year warranty. He also told me that if something happens due to his work after the 1 year period, just give him a call and he would work with me on getting it fixed.

So far so good with them and I have no regrets (so far) of going this route. I hope I can get it sooner rather than later so I'm ready to hit the snow!

sledheader · Dec 10, 2014

Well I'm waiting on the return of the bottom end and am currently in the process of getting everything cleaned up.

Like I said, the cylinder still show the cross hatching with no grooves, but have slight discoloration in a couple spots. And I mean SLIGHT. Also, one of the cylinders has two small dings on the bottom of the cylinder walls where it sits inside the block (Don't know the technical term). the bottom is bevelled out there and the dings are on the outside of that bevel and I'm pretty sure it isn't going to effect anything...but will it?

I will try to remember to take some pictures tonight so everyone knows exactly what I'm talking about

sledheader · Dec 11, 2014

Pictures of the cylinders. Should I have any question in re using these?

brandon1 · Dec 11, 2014

I'd take a file and smooth the edges of the nicks just to keep the things easy to handle, the nicks aren't in the area that the piston travels, hone the cylinders and run em'. The only thing I see that's concerning is the last pick that long discoloration looks like is grooved but that is probably just the picture.

sledheader · Dec 12, 2014

Thanks,

I think you are just seeing some reflection in the last picture. THere aren't any scuffs at all the only imperfections are VERY SLIGHT discoloration between the ports but you have to look at it to be able to see it.

The only real concern I had were the small divots at the bottom of the cylinders as pictured. So I can just take a file and smooth those out a little and they'll be ok? Neither pistons or rings should hit them where they are located

The 6th picture down is probably the most representative of the discoloration

sledheader · Dec 12, 2014

What about ring gap and pison/cylinder clearance? I have a feeler gauge but not a bore gauge. What should ring gap be? And do I need to purchase a bore gauge to check piston/cylinder clearance?

sledheader · Dec 16, 2014

I've heard of people using a straight edge to line the clutches rather than an alignment tool. If a straight edge is aligned with the primary, what should the gap be between the straight edge and the secondary?

I also have a 2004 700 so if all else fails I'll measure it and set this one to the same measurements...

sledheader · Dec 16, 2014

I've heard of people using a straight edge to line the clutches rather than an alignment tool. If a straight edge is aligned with the primary, what should the gap be between the straight edge and the secondary?

I also have a 2004 700 so if all else fails I'll measure it and set this one to the same measurements...

sledheader · Dec 23, 2014

Well, figured I would update this thread. The bottom end arrived at 5:30 pm friday and I had a complete motor by 10:00 pm. Very impressed with JJ machinery so far. Everything was there and all cleaned up and looked awesome!

Did the first start last night. I put 40:1 in the tank. Started it after bleeding the oil pump. I pulled the choke, and it wanted to run on the second pull! Shut the choke off and it took about 5 more pulls before it was off and running! As soon as it started idling I reached down and pulled the oil pump wide open and let it idle for awhile. I couldn't see oil in the lines so I shut it off and pulled the oil pump and primed it with a drill. then I got it all warmed up and revved it and it seems to run smooth. It does bog and backfire just a bit if you let it idle for a bit then blurp the throttle. I'm guessing that this has to do with the amount of oil it is consuming. It smokes like crazy with the additional oil in the tank.

All in all I was short one bolt for the pull rope cover and two exhaust springs. Not too bad for the guy handing me the sled and a big box of parts that had been torn apart for 2 years!

sledheader · Dec 29, 2014

Well, I have about 120 miles on it so far. It runs ok, but sometimes it will start to miss at wide open throttle (not all the time). Also, I can only get about 72-7400 Rpms out of it. I'm thinking that It could be an issue with the diaphragms inside the power valves. I'm going to pull them apart tonight and see, but any other ideas of what it could be?

I checked the slides in the carbs when I pulled them apart to clean them and both are synced and the slides open all the way.

It has a stock exhaust with an aftermarket can that the previous owner put on and I can only assume worked fine before the crank broke. The primary was gone through by SLP, the secondary wasn't touched.

hesse · Dec 29, 2014

Broken primary spring?

sledheader · Dec 29, 2014

I haven't looked but I assume SLP wouldn't put it together with a broken spring. It was completely gone through and they replace what they saw wear in, cleaned and balanced it all for me

sledheader · Dec 30, 2014

Well I pulled the VES valves and inspected and cleaned the bellows. The bellows seemed to be just fine and cleaning the holes thoroughly seemed to help the top end a bit, but riding on ice, it's hard to really tell.

I have a new issue presenting itself. After riding, you let off the throttle and the rpms will hang at around 3-4k then all the sudden it'll idle down to 1500 or so, backfire a few times as it idles, then idle smooth. I was going through my head how I put everything back together, and realized I probably should have put some sort of sealant on the stator assembly housing...looked in the service manual and sure enough there it was...I missed it. So I'm going to be picking up a new seal just in case today and tearing it apart. If nothing else, it will rule out it sucking in extra air.

Can I use just regular red RTV silicone? Or is there something else I have to use for the case?

sledheader · Dec 31, 2014

Would a bad or out of adjustment TPS cause any of these symptoms?

sledheader · Mar 9, 2015

Bump this to the top.

I have about 300 miles on the rebuild and the sled runs great most of the time. But if you on a climb and you start slowing down and it has to start digging, it will start to cut out like it's over heating. It seems to do it more after you have hit the hill a few times and got it good and warm. I'm thinking maybe the thermostat isn't opening all the way. Thoughts?

BILTIT · Mar 9, 2015

I dont think its your problem but the updated bypass thermostat is well worth it.

brandon1 · Mar 9, 2015

sledheader said:
Bump this to the top.

I have about 300 miles on the rebuild and the sled runs great most of the time. But if you on a climb and you start slowing down and it has to start digging, it will start to cut out like it's over heating. It seems to do it more after you have hit the hill a few times and got it good and warm. I'm thinking maybe the thermostat isn't opening all the way. Thoughts?

It could be the DET sensor kicking in and retarding the timing. This may not be because of DET but because of the Temp sensor. I had this issue and could never figure it out until I noticed the DET light going off, it's really hard to see when your riding hard. I changed temp sensors and haven't had the issue since.

As I understand it the brain uses temp as one of it's parameters for the DET and when the sensor is bad it fools the DET setup and you get retarded timing at bad times.

I haven't heard of the thermostat from above but it probably can't hurt either.

sledheader · Mar 9, 2015

brandon1 said:
It could be the DET sensor kicking in and retarding the timing. This may not be because of DET but because of the Temp sensor. I had this issue and could never figure it out until I noticed the DET light going off, it's really hard to see when your riding hard. I changed temp sensors and haven't had the issue since.

As I understand it the brain uses temp as one of it's parameters for the DET and when the sensor is bad it fools the DET setup and you get retarded timing at bad times.

I haven't heard of the thermostat from above but it probably can't hurt either.

That is kind of what it acts like. But When it happens, I'm always in a spot where it's not exactly handy to look down at the dash. As close as I could tell, rpms drop to 7000 or slightly below and acts like the sensor is going off. I have the plug from the temp sensor zip tied together as I do on all of them (Had one that didn't want to stay real well one time, so now I just through a zip tie around it to keep it good and tight).

I may try a new temp sensor and a new thermostat both. I'm selling the sled hopefully before next season but I don't want to see it to someone even with the smallest of issue.

Like I said, 99% of the time it runs awesome, just on long pulls where it is really working hard does it start to do it.

sledheader · Mar 9, 2015

Just ordered a new thermostat and a new temp sensor. If I still have the problem after, I know to look somewhere else.

sled_guy · Mar 10, 2015

If you ride an Edge you really ought to buy the temp bypass resistor from SLP and carry it in your tool kit. It is very handy for diagnosing temp sensor issues... if you think maybe you have a problem you just plug it in to bypass the sensor and then you know.

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2004 800 rmk Broke Crank-Where to now?

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