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which way does the bottom sprocket face? lip in or out?
Question on swapping driveshaft and track out on KC
- Thread starter blurredelevens
- Start date
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it faces in
T
Thanks, that's the way put it in, seemed to set in the other way.
B
I gotta say, you guys kinda scared me with these posts. How long should this job take? Is it really that difficult? 2 years ago, when I had $$$, I'd just drop it off at a shop, but can't afford that any more.
I've got pretty good mechanical skills, I just really don't want to do this job and get screwed the first day out.
I've got pretty good mechanical skills, I just really don't want to do this job and get screwed the first day out.
9
it's easier than you think, just use common sense and a clear mind, one step at a time.and this site is so full of knowledgeable people that if you get stuck , just post your problem and someone will come to the rescue.
When you get the Hyvo setup, It comes with a washer for the bottom sprocket, Don't use it! It will space it out too far.
Mike
Mike
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T
It's pretty easy, here it is in a nut shell;
Remove the skid
unbolt the speed-o drive 3 bolts - pulled the secondary also
take the cover off the chaincase and remove the chain and lower sprocket. Take the three bolts out of the bearing retainer at the drive axle.
Then slide the drive axle towards the chaincase until you can drop the speed-o end down and then slide it out.
It goes together easier then it comes apart. I grease everything well while it all was apart.
Remove the skid
unbolt the speed-o drive 3 bolts - pulled the secondary also
take the cover off the chaincase and remove the chain and lower sprocket. Take the three bolts out of the bearing retainer at the drive axle.
Then slide the drive axle towards the chaincase until you can drop the speed-o end down and then slide it out.
It goes together easier then it comes apart. I grease everything well while it all was apart.
B
Today, I took the plunge and took most of her apart.
The tunnel is supoosed to be "bent" like this, right?
Also, if you look in that picture, there are rub marks from the track by the rivets on the left in the middle upper......
What adjustment do I need to make on this to
prevent the track from rubbing here again?
I could only pull the track with the driveshaft in because it's broken in half, thus part of the reason I'm doing this. (new track going on too)
While I'm taking pictures, is this the stock can/pipe?
I haven't got to the pulling of the chaincase cover, but I'm guessing these are some of the bolts to pull, not the bigger ones......btw, I drained the oil out of the chaincase so it'll be empty when I pull it tomorrow...
And how the hell does that level check work on the chaincase cover?
Thanks for putting up with all the dumb questions, hopefully it can help others in the future too. I'll take pics of the chain case tomorrow when I crack her.
Thanks everyone!
The tunnel is supoosed to be "bent" like this, right?
Also, if you look in that picture, there are rub marks from the track by the rivets on the left in the middle upper......
What adjustment do I need to make on this to
prevent the track from rubbing here again?
I could only pull the track with the driveshaft in because it's broken in half, thus part of the reason I'm doing this. (new track going on too)
While I'm taking pictures, is this the stock can/pipe?
I haven't got to the pulling of the chaincase cover, but I'm guessing these are some of the bolts to pull, not the bigger ones......btw, I drained the oil out of the chaincase so it'll be empty when I pull it tomorrow...
And how the hell does that level check work on the chaincase cover?
Thanks for putting up with all the dumb questions, hopefully it can help others in the future too. I'll take pics of the chain case tomorrow when I crack her.
Thanks everyone!
Changed a track today on my king. Took about 30 minutes. Swapped my straightened A20 for a CLAW! The claw is the stuff here in the fluffy utah powder!!!
P.S. the secret to a quick and easy track change is having a place you can hang the back of the sled. I have a beam in the middle of my garage that I ran 2 huge eye bolts through. I use 2 tie downs hooked to the gas rack. Of course i dont lift the back end untill i undo the rear suspension bolts.
P.S. the secret to a quick and easy track change is having a place you can hang the back of the sled. I have a beam in the middle of my garage that I ran 2 huge eye bolts through. I use 2 tie downs hooked to the gas rack. Of course i dont lift the back end untill i undo the rear suspension bolts.
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on the chain case there is a bolt under the footwell down low you cant see and is a pain to get to, do it first!
1. Yes, the tunnel is supposed to be "bent" like that.
2. Drop brackets of some sort would keep the track from hitting there, also make sure track tension is correct.
3. Stock pipe, aftermarket can, don't know what brand.
4. Yes, you pull the bolts you have marked, along with a few others. You can see the six bolts to remove on this picture. (one is a royal pain to get to, behind the footwell.)
5. That level is a small dipstick, you unscrew it and look.
2. Drop brackets of some sort would keep the track from hitting there, also make sure track tension is correct.
3. Stock pipe, aftermarket can, don't know what brand.
4. Yes, you pull the bolts you have marked, along with a few others. You can see the six bolts to remove on this picture. (one is a royal pain to get to, behind the footwell.)
5. That level is a small dipstick, you unscrew it and look.
B
^^^^^^^^^^^
Thanks for that awesome post!
Just read that in another thread that the track rub may have been due to a bad bearing (which in turn probably snapped the drive shaft)
So, I'll head down to Walmart tomorrow....what kind of oil do I need to refill the chaincase?
Thanks for that awesome post!
Just read that in another thread that the track rub may have been due to a bad bearing (which in turn probably snapped the drive shaft)
So, I'll head down to Walmart tomorrow....what kind of oil do I need to refill the chaincase?
There are many opinions as to what type of oil to run in the chaincase. We use gear oil, some people use transmission fluid. It doesn't really seem to matter that much as long as there is something in there.
7
this is Pandora's box just stuff some 75-90 w in it and don't look back. this debate will never end on oil, run 2300+ mountain miles a year and have never had a problem with the oil. the simple chain case doesn't care as the type just that it gets some lube......btw check the chain and gears now your in there, the chains suck so buy a new one and put the old one in the gear bag for latter needs.
5
did you have to change anything or just swap track and fit
Just swaped the track. I did change to 20/46 gearing and a different chain but that really doesn't count. Also I am not 100% back together, I have my pipe off so i can sandblast it and repaint.
B
Popped the chain case open today. Bearing seemed okay. Took this pic of it-
I think what must have happened is I hit a rut on the groomer going fast and it hit the driveshaft, breaking it. That explains why the chain was off....bearings were not locked up.
Chain did a bit of damage to the cover, but not much. Luckily I shut the sled off right away when I heard the grinding noise, thus minimizing damage.
It did break the little dipstick off though....anyone have another?
My biggest worry was this little box thing on the cover...is this some sort of vent? What does it look like without damage? Should I replace this little vent cover or not worry about it?
Putting the cover aside for now, I put the chain back on. There were some scrape marks on both the chain and the gear, but nothing serious, so I put them back on and buttoned it back up....does this look correct?
Thanks!
I think what must have happened is I hit a rut on the groomer going fast and it hit the driveshaft, breaking it. That explains why the chain was off....bearings were not locked up.
Chain did a bit of damage to the cover, but not much. Luckily I shut the sled off right away when I heard the grinding noise, thus minimizing damage.
It did break the little dipstick off though....anyone have another?
My biggest worry was this little box thing on the cover...is this some sort of vent? What does it look like without damage? Should I replace this little vent cover or not worry about it?
Putting the cover aside for now, I put the chain back on. There were some scrape marks on both the chain and the gear, but nothing serious, so I put them back on and buttoned it back up....does this look correct?
Thanks!
I am guessing that you have your new drive shaft in place now? If not you need to take your chain and lower gear off again. Oh and yes that does look right. Remember finger tight on the chain tension-er. And check the tension again after your first ride.
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Finger tight on the tensioner...roger that.
Any idea what that box on the chain case cover is?
Yes, the new drive shaft is in.
