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08 800 with bd Turbo

Mag

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I've asked some questions in other threads with sleds that have similar problems but nothings helped yet so I'll try my own. It's an 08 800 with all updates running the 2009 flash, problems started an hr into the 4th ride this year.

Sled fires on both cylinders at idle but from 2000-6500 only runs on pto side (I switched coils and got the same results) Compression is 110 both sides.

My first thought was reeds so I changed them mine only had a couple chips in the tips not that bad at all. Next I checked the stator and it tested bad so I changed it and still have the problem. I bypassed the bd box and the sled runs on both cylinders again. I tried it both with the jumper and plugged directly into the ecu. Boondocker sent me a new fuel controller and harness to try and it didn't change anything, wish I'd of had them send me another ebc to try just to rule it out.

I've also changed fuel filters, exhaust valves, intake boot, new iridium's and checked every wire on the sled.

I've been running straight trick 110 this year where last year I ran straight ll100. Went to 50/50 110 trick with pump 90 yesterday and it didn't change anything. Also put a can of seafoam in.

With the box plugged in and everything set at zero the mag side is soaked and quits running until you get above 6500 or so rpm then the mag side starts burning and both cylinders run pretty close on the egt's and plug color. With the fuel control bypassed both cylinders run the same all the way up to 5000 checked again with both the egt's and plug color.

Where do I check next?
 
M

mod03rmk800

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With it being 'soaked' and trying to switch the plug wires around, I would say there is an issue with the injector. Can you switch the injectors?
 

Mag

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Have to pull the motor to do the lower injectors hoping to not have to do that and if it where an injector I don't think it would run correctly with the box bypassed would it?

Which injectors are low rpm and which are high?
 
T

theshadowrider

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I am just trying to logically think through this one. You have seemed to check all the usual turbo problems. I have read somewhere that people where have a problem with the connectors and some of the pins not connecting correctly. Have you checked all your connectors to see if the pins are all tight and connecting correctly? If it runs with the bd box bypassed and you replaced the bd box and it still doesn't work then it seems like it's got to be electrical in something to due with hooking up the bd box? Also I have read to make sure your wires for the bd box are not near the coil wires and away from the vr the best you can.
 
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When you had the harness replaced, did you have the little black plug-in box that goes to the sled's ecu replaced (I think there were a few issues with some of these about a year ago). Next guess would be a ground issue. Also, go to the Stats screen on the ctrl box while it's running and see if displayed rpms are correct.
 

Mag

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I've checked every wire on the sled, tested continuity thru every harness, pushed pulled and twisted every pin terminal and cant find anything wrong. Fuel pressure is at 61 idle and 61 throttled up. I think I'm down to it being an ecu, injector (if it's an injector why does it run correctly with the control box unplugged) or ebc. Dealer is of no help and wouldn't let me pull an ecu off one of their other sleds to try and an injector is $300 kinda pricey if it's not the issue.

Which injectors are high rpm and low rpm uppers or lowers?
 
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440dart

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i had an injector sticking lastyear it would run on one cylinder until i got it past a certian point then i think it switched injectors and would run like a raped ape
 
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theshadowrider

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i had an injector sticking lastyear it would run on one cylinder until i got it past a certian point then i think it switched injectors and would run like a raped ape

Yea, but his runs fine when the bd box is bypassed. This doesn't make sense!
 

Mag

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Yea, but his runs fine when the bd box is bypassed. This doesn't make sense!

Correct I'd think if it where an injector it would do it no matter what.

Still trying to find somebody up here with an ebc and/or ecu I can try.
 
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theshadowrider

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I think you can run it without the ebc. Maybe ask Justin at code red but I think if you unhook your ebc, it will just use the spring in the actuator to control boost. Doesn't seem like the ebc can be causing the problem.
 

Mag

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Boondocker sent me everything new to try and I still have the same problem. I'm down to it being an ecu or an injector. I'm still trying to find another 800 up here I can swap ecu's with to test before I pull the motor to check injectors :face-icon-small-sad
 

Mag

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I was going to pull the injectors today and when I took the tape off this is what I found ..........................

167796_1658596038075_1632373362_1490348_3080729_n-1.jpg


All better now :amen:
 
T

theshadowrider

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Did this happen when you where pulling the tape off? Seems weird that it would still run with the bd box bypassed and not with it hooked up. Seems like it wouldn't matter if this was like this the entire time.
 

Mag

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Did this happen when you where pulling the tape off? Seems weird that it would still run with the bd box bypassed and not with it hooked up. Seems like it wouldn't matter if this was like this the entire time.

Yup when I took the tape off that's how it was, It also didn't pull any codes with the bd box hooked up but it did bypassed :tsk:
 

ridgeclimber

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turbo issues

That was a very expensive and time consuming repair. But from what I can see from your picture, why would that harness of been cut or have those but connectors? Get rid of all the but connector, solder and shrink tube all the connections. I had one wire pull out of the ada sensor harness plug. That took a while for me to find. I thought I cooked it. Replace everything, checked everything but it still would start to run poorly once it warmed up. I guess it thought it was getting hot and was adding to much fuel. Plugged in the wire we found on the trail and problem solved.
 

Mag

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That was a very expensive and time consuming repair. But from what I can see from your picture, why would that harness of been cut or have those but connectors? Get rid of all the but connector, solder and shrink tube all the connections. I had one wire pull out of the ada sensor harness plug. That took a while for me to find. I thought I cooked it. Replace everything, checked everything but it still would start to run poorly once it warmed up. I guess it thought it was getting hot and was adding to much fuel. Plugged in the wire we found on the trail and problem solved.

The butt connectors where done bye the dealer last year when they replaced the injectors :tsk:

I think the lower ones in the case are mid range, and trottelbody ones are low and high rpm.

Stock the lower injectors run all the time and the uppers run mid range, Boondocker's fuel controller changes how the injectors work together hence the reason it would run fine with everything bypassed and like crap with the control box hooked up.
 
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theshadowrider

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The butt connectors where done bye the dealer last year when they replaced the injectors :tsk:



Stock the lower injectors run all the time and the uppers run mid range, Boondocker's fuel controller changes how the injectors work together hence the reason it would run fine with everything bypassed and like crap with the control box hooked up.

Makes more sense now! Glad you found this gremlin!
 
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scubba steve

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My dealer did the same thing.(butt connectors) I dint care for the looks of it but they said thats what polaris say's to do..
 
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