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Burandt shock up grade front arm shock setting

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silvester

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Dec 15, 2009
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I cranked mine up a little more. Right now with the C.B. re-valve I'm at 140 in the rear float, stock skid mounting locations, and one hole in on the limiter strap from all the way out. The front shock i'm closer to 3/4" of threads showing. I'm liking this so far, but just getting started this season.
 

Superduty348

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hey here is a question for you guys....I just did upgrade also but it seems to sag alot more then it did before, does yours do this? about a 2" Front shock with 7-8 threads showing with 120 to 125 psi in the rear shock.(adjusted with no weight on the track to that psi)Just wondering if its normal?
 
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silvester

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Dec 15, 2009
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you are probably too low in pressure in the rear. I'd start at 140 in the float and go from there. Guys running the geo mod can go to lower pressures but even with the revalve you will still be around 140-150psi...just a guess
 

KSH

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My set-up, I weight 220

Front Shock Ti Spring about 1 full turn from when it touched. Limiter strap in the center.

Rear shock is is at 125



I would start at higher pressure in the rear say 140 and let out 5 lbs at a time until you find the sweet spot. 5 lbs will make a big difference and it's easier to let pressure than try to add if you start to low.

One thing to remember, these shocks were valved to your weight and riding style. So one persons set-up might not work on another sled
 

Superduty348

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why are the pressures so high after the upgrade? my weight is 180lbs so thats why I thought the psi is a little high. or should you run a high pressure in the shock now.
 

KSH

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everyone I know runs at least 140 no matter there weight. If you have more than 2" of sag in the rear when your not on the sled you should add psi.

That's strange, they have the Burandt kit and still have to run 140?

I had lousy transfer at 140
 

WyoBoy1000

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Performance in the deep will be the best with 2" or less of sag. Transfer is not always a plus in the deep and if you want transfer you should do the geo mod. At that low of psi I would be stuck most of the time (at least where I go now) or the sled would want o wheelie over.
 

Superduty348

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So do any of your sleds sag down a couple of inches?Mine I can move it up and down freely like theres a air pocket in the shock if that make any sense.
 

WyoBoy1000

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in soft pow you don't want much preload on the front shock, but still need a little on stiffer snow more preload can help in handling. I think the 2" or less of sag is a must. Just my .02.
 
D
Sep 17, 2009
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Another thing I find, if you like to jump with the 153's... To much preload and too stiff front ski shocks can make your front end pop up, and not want to come down if your doing a big "up and over" type jump. I let off and locked the brake up solid on a few launches and the front end didn't want to drop like it should of. So I released the front arm spring and softened up the front shocks a bit and it reacted much better. It didn't try and "bounce" the front end into the air if I hit things really fast.
 

Superduty348

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ok I will give it try, before the upgrade it used to go back up to full extension but now it doesn't. it comes up but it come up another2"
 
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silvester

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Dec 15, 2009
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The re-valve doesn't really have anything to do with your initial preload pressure but a heck of allot to do with how the shock preforms through the stroke. I'm guessing the pressure in your rear float will be close, if not the same as before. The real results are in how the front and rear skid shocks work, not in pressures. My sled, at the same pressures, feels so much smoother on compression and rebounds allot quicker. That is what i wanted, and why i got re-valved. I'd work from where you were before you sent your shocks in. Make your changes one at a time so you can see what is happening.
 

KSH

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Performance in the deep will be the best with 2" or less of sag. Transfer is not always a plus in the deep and if you want transfer you should do the geo mod. At that low of psi I would be stuck most of the time (at least where I go now) or the sled would want o wheelie over.

Do you have the Burandt kit or the Holz set-p?
 
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