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Arctic Cat: M Series 2005-2011, all models in the M-series chassis
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Old 02-28-2019, 10:49 AM
Boom-n-Zoom Boom-n-Zoom is offline
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Default 2010 M8 Sno Pro?

Looking to buy a clean 2010 M8 Sno Pro. It has some miles but looks to have been well taken care of. What compression is acceptable for the motor. Anything special to look at on this sled that may be a problem, If I pick it up what should I do as far as maintenance. Sled is stock still has stock pipe and can. I figure this is the best place to ask

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Old 02-28-2019, 12:19 PM
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MI1M600EFI MI1M600EFI is offline
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Compression numbers vary a lot depending on elevation... I'm at 7k' and my 5500 mile '09 is showing just over 90psi. If I was at sea level,I would probably get closer to 110. For an '09, I don't think that's too low.

The '10's were slightly higher compression motors, so you should see a bit higher compression numbers, better than 120 at sea level would be ideal.

It is honestly more important that the two cylinders are fairly close than to go looking for an actual number, since I've seen different correction factors for elevation. Different gages give different values too. FWIW, don't use a HF compression tester, it'll give you WAY low numbers on small engines...

I'm not sure there's a more bulletproof engine than the cat 800 that was in these sleds. No reason you shouldn't get 5000 miles out of it before a top end, so long as you don't frequently overheat it or run it out of oil...

As for maintenance, pull the cover off the DD and make sure it has the wide bearing. If it doesn't, put one in. Fresh DD fluid every year doesn't hurt. I run synthetic 80W140. I used to cut it just a little with ATF, but haven't bothered at the last two changes.

Disconnect the power valve cables from the servo and pull and release each one. They should pull smoothly, and release with a clunk. If they're sticky clean the powervalves. I have never cleaned mine, and they're fine. Prior to this year I ONLY ran APV oil.

Check the Y-pipe for cracks. Check the engine mounts and replace them if they look torn or heavily distorted.

Check the bulkhead for cracking behind the engine, just in front of where the steering shaft hits it. Several fixes available.

If it doesn't have the guards for the kill and warmer switches, buy them. Best $20 you can spend... I put an SLP can on mine, but just went back to the stock can this year. I didn't see any perf gain, only more noise. Weight difference wasn't worth talking about. I'd leave it stock and just go ride.

Biggest bang for the buck if you ride steep and deep would be a 2.5" CE or 2.6" PC track. I'm about to do that to my turbo sled, since it's running a Maverick track that pretty much sucks. My other sled has a 2.25" PC and it's pretty good. The 2.6" is even better though.

And let me know if you want to trade a '09 style seat for the '10 seat... My HCR has the taller '10/11 "Mountain" seat, and I'd love to get one for my Sno Pro.
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'09 M8 Sno Pro 153"
'02 Z440 Sno Pro - Wife's sled, my project...
New to the fleet:
'09 M8 HCR 153 Boondocker Turbo

Last edited by MI1M600EFI; 02-28-2019 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 02-28-2019, 12:32 PM
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Primary clutch wear, secondary clutch hub & bushing, mag side motor mount, plug caps rubbing on steering post, chassis ground behind coolant bottle & from stator. Otherwise great tough sled
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Old 02-28-2019, 12:46 PM
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Oh, the primary clutches wear the weights eventually, which will keep the clutch engaged, or make for an abrupt engagement. When this happens, the rollers are usually also toast, or will be soon. Just go spend the $300 for a new "uncalibrated" clutch and toss in a new spring and new weights. I tried to rebuild my clutch with new pins/buttons/rollers and blew the spider about 500 miles later. That was at about 4500 miles.

I'd also recommend changing from the yellow/white spring... I think it engages a little higher than is now considered ideal for powder... The cat gold spring used to be the standard, but will raise the top RPM's a little. I prefer the newer dark green spring, 0646-252, which lowers engagement just like the gold, but doesn't change the top end.

And mind your belt deflection. On my '09, if deflection gets too high, I'll get an off-idle bog at times. Pretty easy to change deflection with shims in the secondary, no reason not to have it correct.
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'09 M8 Sno Pro 153"
'02 Z440 Sno Pro - Wife's sled, my project...
New to the fleet:
'09 M8 HCR 153 Boondocker Turbo

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Old 03-01-2019, 10:28 AM
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Also add a thunder abc kit to clean up sheave to belt in primary. Makes any spring engage really smooth. 👍 On the green primary spring
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Old 03-10-2019, 12:39 PM
catmechanic catmechanic is offline
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I checked mine the other day and compression was 135 on both sides.

x3 on the dark green spring. Used to run the black/gold. This still has light engagement but pulls much harder.

just replaced my primary as a roller stuck and ate a weight out west this year.

Replace the diamond drive bearing annually. Its a cheap component and as easy as it is to pull the DD out to inspect, at least you are getting a look at everything on the inside as well.

I MAY be selling mine. It's been a great sled, but everyone in my group has upgraded and i am leaning in that direction.
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