Which one would you prefer and why?
Carbon or fiber Turbo reed
- Thread starter brycter
- Start date
D
I like the carbon fiber/Kevlar/??? turbo reeds by TDR. Not sure what Boyesen turbo reeds are composed of. They seem like more of a plastic. I will test some Boyesen reeds along side the others and compare. We both know how long V-Force hold up under boost--1,2,3,4
. Not very long at all!! Stock reeds last longer than the V-Force.
Dave
. Not very long at all!! Stock reeds last longer than the V-Force.Dave
K
I just installed a set of boyeson turbo specific reeds, and hope they work. I had decent luck with the super sport reeds they sell, but they still broke the corners off the top pettal, outside edge. Time will tell.
D
I just got some more TDR turbo specific reeds in and they are called an epoxy fiber. Whatever that is. They are white in color, like I think the Boyesen reeds are too. Can someone verify this on the Boyesen reeds? How thick are they too? The TDR reeds are .024" thick.
Dave
. They are white in color, like I think the Boyesen reeds are too. Can someone verify this on the Boyesen reeds? How thick are they too? The TDR reeds are .024" thick. Dave
G
usually refered to G -(Insert appropriate thickness ) fiberglass epxoy resin board.
You can purchase it in sheets from Enco or MSC.
Tony uses a laser so as to ( cauterize ) the cut edges.
boyesen and the rest of the OEM world too just sheer it.
Gus
You can purchase it in sheets from Enco or MSC.
Tony uses a laser so as to ( cauterize ) the cut edges.
boyesen and the rest of the OEM world too just sheer it.
Gus
boysen's are .023"
Boysen carbon tech are .018"
The "FiberGlass" reeds are yellow and are cut with a 22000 rpm carbide bit end mill. Also with the carbon fiber. NOT STAMPED
this topic can be battled also so i will through out what i know and you guys tell me what you think.
Laser cut reed pettles are not the best because. 90% of all epoxies are what we call Thermo set epoxy. When you take heat to cut that type of epoxy you bubble the epoxy up on the end of the reed and you need to sand it off. These types of epoxy's can only hold up to 200* before they start to fall apart.
now there is another type of epoxy out there that is called thermo form and this type of epoxy can with stand alot more heat. That is the type of reed that i am know prototyping right know ( or as soon as i get snow). This type of reed has never been produced and given to the public yet.
All the other Turbo spec reeds are the best that we can get at the moment.
As far as thickness goes. The thinner and lighter that the reeed petal can be the better throttle responce that you get. That is where carbon fiber comes into play.
So it sounds like we have some options. The chose is ours.
Boysen carbon tech are .018"
The "FiberGlass" reeds are yellow and are cut with a 22000 rpm carbide bit end mill. Also with the carbon fiber. NOT STAMPED
this topic can be battled also so i will through out what i know and you guys tell me what you think.
Laser cut reed pettles are not the best because. 90% of all epoxies are what we call Thermo set epoxy. When you take heat to cut that type of epoxy you bubble the epoxy up on the end of the reed and you need to sand it off. These types of epoxy's can only hold up to 200* before they start to fall apart.
now there is another type of epoxy out there that is called thermo form and this type of epoxy can with stand alot more heat. That is the type of reed that i am know prototyping right know ( or as soon as i get snow). This type of reed has never been produced and given to the public yet.
All the other Turbo spec reeds are the best that we can get at the moment.
As far as thickness goes. The thinner and lighter that the reeed petal can be the better throttle responce that you get. That is where carbon fiber comes into play.
So it sounds like we have some options. The chose is ours.
G
No one wants to be riding on a timer , waiting to split a petal.
The correct way is single V cage, NONE of the oem doo's have had this since the 600 ho carb did.
Use cat f ( 600 700 800s) or 800 900 twin cages and petals, Use 11 mm cat reed spacers and cat reed gaskets, get longer 5mm bolts .
Install them and forget them. simple and painless.
Not one failure in 4 years at up to stupid boost.
Time will teach,, as more install and run these set ups.
Any of the current laymans 2 stroke development programs will lay this all out for you too.. run simulations on double and single v cages and the answers jump off the screen to you.
Heat is a small part of the issue, angle and operating tension are others as well as total flow, lean conditions and too much timing.
pressure and carb or t body diameter.
larger arpetures cause much worse issue with petal failure.. even catastrophic cage failure from petal failure are not unseen when using too flat a angle reed cage.
Good riding to all.
Gus
The correct way is single V cage, NONE of the oem doo's have had this since the 600 ho carb did.
Use cat f ( 600 700 800s) or 800 900 twin cages and petals, Use 11 mm cat reed spacers and cat reed gaskets, get longer 5mm bolts .
Install them and forget them. simple and painless.
Not one failure in 4 years at up to stupid boost.
Time will teach,, as more install and run these set ups.
Any of the current laymans 2 stroke development programs will lay this all out for you too.. run simulations on double and single v cages and the answers jump off the screen to you.
Heat is a small part of the issue, angle and operating tension are others as well as total flow, lean conditions and too much timing.
pressure and carb or t body diameter.
larger arpetures cause much worse issue with petal failure.. even catastrophic cage failure from petal failure are not unseen when using too flat a angle reed cage.
Good riding to all.
Gus
4 years of running. Cool. Is this dragging or on the mountain? On what sled? I am not trying to knock your set up gus just trying to put all the info together so that learning can happen. I think that you are on the right track.
One of the problems that i have seen by doing this is that it gives more room for the intake boot too baloon and delaminate. On the Xp. The way that the intake boot s curves speeds and slow the velocity through the reeds and boot causing a flutter in the X Style reed cage. That is another reason that we see reed failure in the xp. Straight intake boots would be awesome but there is no flexability to put the carbs in.
One of the problems that i have seen by doing this is that it gives more room for the intake boot too baloon and delaminate. On the Xp. The way that the intake boot s curves speeds and slow the velocity through the reeds and boot causing a flutter in the X Style reed cage. That is another reason that we see reed failure in the xp. Straight intake boots would be awesome but there is no flexability to put the carbs in.
Good info guys! It just shows how every component has it's +'s and -'s....make one aspect better and it may create another weakness. Not just with reeds/cages but just about anything mechanical.
I do various forms of controlled environment destructive testing for a living and this is almost always the case....nothing is ever perfect. :beer;
I do various forms of controlled environment destructive testing for a living and this is almost always the case....nothing is ever perfect. :beer;
G
Its almost all dargging Bryce, only one sled putzzing around.. the rest are all dragging.
now.
The xp boot is pretty tough I was going to make aluminum but with boyesen building his own its not worth while.
useing boysens cage and duct with doubled .018 base reed, .012 second would be more responsive.
Ballooning,, I never saw that but the xp is its own long throated boot..not unexpected when you laook at one.
We'll keep on keepin on !!! LOL
Damn plumbing on the xp is tiresome..
Gus
now.
The xp boot is pretty tough I was going to make aluminum but with boyesen building his own its not worth while.
useing boysens cage and duct with doubled .018 base reed, .012 second would be more responsive.
Ballooning,, I never saw that but the xp is its own long throated boot..not unexpected when you laook at one.
We'll keep on keepin on !!! LOL
Damn plumbing on the xp is tiresome..
Gus
S
skull
Guest
I am not suppose to say anything. But i was down to bryce's ans he has some top secret mods that he is doing to the reeds to make the live longer. K.I.S.S Thats all i have to say.
S
got it on mine.
Q
Hey guys, we have finished testing our prototype reeds for 2-stroke turbo specific model applications. Like many of you we struggled with the frustrations of cracked, broken and missing petals under extreme boost levels and lean sneezes. Over the past few months we have done testing on a variety of materials including stainless steel, non-ferrious metals, and various fiber materials, including many other manufactures reeds.
Unfortunatelly, for our application we could not keep reed petals alive over 25 psi of boost, which lead us on the quest for new materials and designs. I'm happy to say that we have put our new steel material reeds to the ultimate test of 36 psi of boost on our 2-stroke Yamaha Vmax-4 for over 10 dyno test runs @ Dynotech Research for a new horsepower record of 560.2 hp and 332 ft. lbs of torque. After further inspection the new petals are excellent in condition and our material has great memory for holding form.
So the good news for you boondocker riders and race purpose sleds that can't afford to be stuck with something as simple as a failed reed assembly there is a new option for you riders. We have finished with our Arctic Cat reeds in 2-petal and 4-petal designs, and running our first production of our Polaris version. The Cat reeds are being tested by Glenn Hall of D&D Racing and should be offered thru him after further testing. We are currently working on our Ski-Doo production reeds... hold tight we should have an alternative option for you gentleman as well. Not knocking anyones reed products, just another solid option for some of you to have.
Thanks,
Justin Durand
Unfortunatelly, for our application we could not keep reed petals alive over 25 psi of boost, which lead us on the quest for new materials and designs. I'm happy to say that we have put our new steel material reeds to the ultimate test of 36 psi of boost on our 2-stroke Yamaha Vmax-4 for over 10 dyno test runs @ Dynotech Research for a new horsepower record of 560.2 hp and 332 ft. lbs of torque. After further inspection the new petals are excellent in condition and our material has great memory for holding form.
So the good news for you boondocker riders and race purpose sleds that can't afford to be stuck with something as simple as a failed reed assembly there is a new option for you riders. We have finished with our Arctic Cat reeds in 2-petal and 4-petal designs, and running our first production of our Polaris version. The Cat reeds are being tested by Glenn Hall of D&D Racing and should be offered thru him after further testing. We are currently working on our Ski-Doo production reeds... hold tight we should have an alternative option for you gentleman as well. Not knocking anyones reed products, just another solid option for some of you to have.
Thanks,
Justin Durand
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