08 dragon 700 question and problem

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Dragonekimp

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Jan 23, 2017

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• Jan 23, 2017

• #1

Hey everyone my dragon recently had bad vr and fried ecu. Got used ecu and new vr ecu has yellow flash my sled has red injectors. Runs fine seems to have a ton of bottom end power no fuel smell when idling plugs look good. should I run it like this or get ecu flash to red? Second question last time I had it out after 15 20 min riding voltage on gauge started to drop fell to last two bars lights were bright dash stayed lit any ideas?

 

XCaSSAULT

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Dec 9, 2016

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• Jan 23, 2017

• #2

Get it flashed to red, i wouldn't take any chances.

As far as the electrical u could test your capacitor and make sure that is good. And chassis relay. First place to start anyway.

 

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Dragonekimp

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Jan 23, 2017

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• Jan 23, 2017

• #3

checked capacitor tested good 12v dropped .1 every few seconds. The relay I did not check think it could be the cause? I tested stator resistance on yellow wires was a bit high .3 or .4 when hot .1 .2 when cold also brown white wire to ground was open loop I think it's supposta be .0

 

XCaSSAULT

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• Jan 23, 2017

• #4

u could also try cleaning were the ground wires are connected and adding a ground wire from that point to motor mount since these sleds have a poor ground system. I've read that when the ground wires get corroded it can cause problems like yours. U could also have a short somewhere like handwarmers or something causing an issue. Relay part number at napa is AR274 and only $20, be easy to elemimate that from the mix

 

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Dragonekimp

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Jan 23, 2017

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• Jan 23, 2017

• #5

Thx I will try relay tomorrow also I have done the extra grounds.

 

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Dragonekimp

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Jan 23, 2017

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• Jan 23, 2017

• #6

Also would like to add sled is on its 3rd top end in 3000 miles with red flash and red injectors

 

XCaSSAULT

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• Jan 23, 2017

• #7

Man that sucks. I was in need of a sled upgrade and found a 2010 assault with 1400 miles on it, really good condition and talked the guy down to $3,600. He said top end was replaced at 1200 cause of volt reg failure. He paid a dealer $1,800 to fix! So I put the fix on, got a power commander, vented oil cap and a laundry list of other things to try and feel confident in this thing. Got about 200 miles on it and squeaked the pto piston. It's tore apart with parts on order now. Total was $625 (a lot better then $1,800!). Pretty hard to trust this thing now. If it goes down again it's getting parted. At least yours being a 700 has a little less stigma. They all seem to have poor electrics. Can't believe there's no fuses or any kinda protection. They dropped the ball on
that!

 

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Dragonekimp

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Jan 23, 2017

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• Jan 23, 2017

• #8

Yaa its too bad came off a pro x 700 8500 trouble free miles. This could be my last polaris.

 

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Dragonekimp

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Jan 23, 2017

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• Jan 24, 2017

• #9

would yellow flash on red injectors be rich or lean?

 

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Dragonekimp

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• Jan 30, 2017

• #10

update it was stator gone. Have few hundred km on sled now with red flash yellow injectors thing is a rocket plugs nice and tan.

 

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Dragonekimp

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• Feb 15, 2017

• #11

Sled now has 1000 miles on top end I think yellow flash red injectors might be the answer haven't fouled a plug. Plugs are perfect tan and thing is a rocket have had it up too 98 mph I less that ideal conditions also runs neck and neck with 800 etech skidoos and new 800 cats. Hope this helps someone

 

M

mormud

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Feb 6, 2010

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Munising, Mi.

• Mar 23, 2017

• #12

having troubles with mine too. did you check the brown/white to ground on the new stator? mine shows open also

 

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retiredpop

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• Mar 24, 2017

• #13

mormud said:

having troubles with mine too. did you check the brown/white to ground on the new stator? mine shows open also

Click to expand...

My curiosity got the better of me regarding the open you guys are seeing so I looked into the wiring schematic. The note in the wiring diagram of reading 0 ohms from Brn/Wh to ground is misleading. When you have the connector open and are looking back into the stator there is no way you will read 0 ohms to ground. The Brn/Wh is just one side of the exciter coil and does not tie to ground within the stator wiring. If you have the stator connector plugged in then you pick up a ground from the ECU connector B pin 14 which feeds back to the Brn/Wh. Bottom line is you need to have the stator plugs connected in order to read 0 ohms on the Brn/Wh to ground.

 

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mormud

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Munising, Mi.

• Mar 25, 2017

• #14

still can't get mine to run right after a rebuild and different injector assembly. checked bn/white today with it plugged in and still open continuity. also no continuity between motor ground and chasis. any help would be very, very appriciated.

 

M

mormud

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Feb 6, 2010

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Munising, Mi.

• Mar 25, 2017

• #15

what ive got going on now is starts good idles good wants to die at slight throttle to half, then sounds good after that. checked tps ,thats good. i did have 50;1 in my gas and now i added 8 gal. just gas to that three gal. plugs are wet if checked at idle, dry if i shut it down at three quarter throttle, pistons still look very wet. it is giving me the 7 count on check eng.