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A stock non boosted Nytro? Better leave your broken motor mounts in so he has a chance:face-icon-small-hap Where did the beer smiley go???
There's so much to clutching that I have yet to fully grasp, but it is said that you should throw a steep helix at the 900 in any chassis form unless its a drag sled and will show all sorts of improvements. Alot of guys recommend the 66-44 helix like sleddude did a few posts back.
When I did my clutching this year, Carls Cycle did not have that helix in their inventory and they recommended a 64-44 for me. I did many changes at once since I was converting a Switchback to a mountain sled, so I can't tell you what a helix alone is going to do for you, but I can tell you that after the changes to the secondary setup I will list below, I have WAY cooler belt and clutch temps and it out-performs stock in every way except top speed, but that's because I significantly lowered my gearing.
Hopefully someone with more experience will speak up and tell you what parts of my setup will, and will not work for you. You may get away with a simple helix swap alone.
Home elevation is 4200'
my motor is stock with an MBRP can and Fire n Ice intake
Lots of venting
19/42 gearing gives me a top speed of 72mph on the speedo at 7600rpm
151x2.4 track
Team 420409 - 64-40ER.46/64-44ER .46 helix (in the bold track)
Team 210184 - red/pink secondary spring 140-260
Delrin washer under spring cup and on other end of spring
As far as tuning for the odd mountain trip, you should really only need to tune for rpm at higher elevation. Some people do this with springs, some with weights, I find weights easier to change on the trail, although they are much more expensive to buy.
Someone care to chime in and help here?
Dan
