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900 fuel problems

P
Jan 4, 2014
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i have a 05 900 rmk blew the motor she rebuilt it and stuck it back in now she seems like she aint getting her gas she starts up no problem when i primes her down threw the plugs idling for a few secs till the gas burns out of her then shuts off......wondering how to check and see if the pump is working also the tee in the fuel line if i take off the cap and pushs the needle in is there spose to me a gas pressure come out of it....also i hooked up air to that tee and she with start up and then die out any though anyone.
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
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Quebec, Canada
There is a primer plug that if you apply 12 V to will run the pump and prime the line...

Are you sure you plugged the electrical connection to the tank back in?

I think it is a white connector with 2 wires: red and brown.
 
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P
Jan 4, 2014
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i put power on in with a battert she cut in so then i took in off after a min or soo and started in and she started right up but then died out out again in a sec check the pressure no pressure on fuel so i did this for awhile and it kept doing the same thing so i left the power on it and started up and she will stay going constant presure reving it and everything so then took the power off and when back to the same thing no pressure but while i had it goin with the power on it the lights or the gauges wasnt working at all i checked all my connections and everything seems like its plugged in.....any ideas now
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
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Quebec, Canada
Starting to sound like it may be capacitor, stator, relay or voltage regulator; although if it was running when you took it apart I'd be leaning towards something not connected.

Wrt the fuel pump, there is a small black connector up by the fuel tank connections; are you sure this was reconnected? Are you sure you connected the white stator plug (with yellow wires going to it in front of the tank)?

If you pull the tank there are tests you can run on the capacitor and stator.

The sled will run without the relay so save that for last.
 
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P
Jan 4, 2014
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double checked everything again but everything seems connected pulled the tank how do i check the stator from the plugins? also can u do it without a multimeter.
 
P
Jan 4, 2014
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the reading for the capacitor says 28000 uf is there away u can read it in ohms cus the meter i got dont read uf i dont think i check the stator all reading r correct
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
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Quebec, Canada
Sure is...see the capacitor test at the bottom of the pic in post 8...apply 12 VDC for 10 seconds, then remove; voltage should remain the same or drop slowly...
 
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P
Jan 4, 2014
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twice now i haul her over and got her to flick her lights like she wanted to start then i check the voltage on the copasitor and it would say like 5 or 6
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
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definitely seems like you have a power problem...could be the voltage regulator but I'm not sure how to test it...

Have you checked the chassis ground? it's in front of the left footwell....

Have you tried unplugging the kill switch (not sure this would be it though as you had it started when using the fuel prime plug)?
 
P
Jan 4, 2014
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ill check the ground trm and ill try the kill switch thing but i find it weird cus i been ****ing with her for a few days now and i havnt got the light to flick on like that until i started screwing with the capacitor.....how do the capacitor work is it all spose to keep its charge or once its going do the coil keep it charged......also the white plug next to the prime plug if i put power on the prime plug to get pressure then i put the power on the other power she with also make a offer and flick her light....
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
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The stator makes an AC voltage, the rectifier changes the AC voltage to DC voltage and clips the peaks to keep it at 14.5 VDC and the capacitor acts like a battery maintaining the 14.5 VDC during the times when the AC current is less than +/-14.5V. The capacitor is able to do this because of the long discharge time that you tested for.

Since you appear to have a power problem, and you have confirmed the stator and capacitor functionality, the voltage regulator may not be working (particularly because of what you said about the 6VDC earlier.

Having said all that, I still have a feeling something might not be connected properly because the engine was working before she blew up.

The primer plug allows you to apply power directly to the fuel pump and doesn't rely on the sleds power generating capability in any way so all it really tells you is the fuel pump works.

The other plug you probably applied power to was the lights test plug. This plug bypasses the relay and applies power to the hood electronics (MFD & lights). I know that it bypasses the relay because I found out the hard way. So when you apply power to this it should power up your lights and MFD...not just flicker.
 
P
Jan 4, 2014
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ground is good....kill swtich no different trying to test the regulator but can that be tested without the skidoo going....without it goin its reading .06
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
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Quebec, Canada
ground is good....kill swtich no different trying to test the regulator but can that be tested without the skidoo going....without it goin its reading .06

I'm pretty sure it is pretty much just 4 diodes...I'll check the manual to see if the pinout is provided...I also have one kicking around; I'll check it out when I get a few minutes....
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
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So you can test the diode portion of the VR...I'm not sure about the ECU plug.

You need a meter that has a "diode mode" (diode mode is needed because the diodes need to be "turned on"). With the meter in the diode mode you should have no reading between any of the "yellow connectors" and you need to check them between each other first probing with the red lead and then probing with the black lead (i.e., put the black lead on a yellow pin and then touch the red lead to the other two leads then put the red lead on the yellow pin and touch the black lead to the other two pins); repeat for the other two pins. You should not get a reading for any of these.

Next check the DC output...
With the meter set to resistance, red to red and brown to brown should be very low resistance (close to zero).

With the meter set to "diode mode", red lead on a red pin black lead probing the brown pins should result in no reading. Repeat for other red pin.

With the meter set to "diode mode", black lead on a red pin red lead probing the brown pins should result in a reading. Repeat for other red pin.

If your readings don't match then let me know and I'll check another VR that I have in storage to confirm. I'm pretty sure this all checks out based on the way that a bridge rectifier works.
 
P
Jan 4, 2014
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i think im goin to look at the stator again the yellow wires it saying on the diagram .13 ohms but that dont seem right to me now is that actually .13 or that a typo or my eyes also would sshe still have spark if them yellow wire had a low reading
 
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