2010 M8 Sno Pro - new owner questions

GarageTime · Mar 28, 2011

Hey Guys,
I picked up a low mileage 2010 M8 162 over the weekend. Rode it yesterday and it is awesome. I felt a little clumsy at first but after a couple hrs I was loving it.

Is there any updates I need to do to keep it healthy? I ask this as I had to tow a buddy out yesterday with a busted up DD on his 2005. Are there issues with the 2010 DD???

It has an SLP can and Cutlers secondary and it ran great - anything else I should consider doing?

So far, I am very happy with the purchase.

Thanks!

Coldfinger · Mar 28, 2011

If it has over 500 miles I'd replace the DD bearing, and fluid.

The 6203 bearing (stock) tends to go bad. There are at least a few threads on this.

GarageTime · Mar 28, 2011

Is there a consensus on this bearing update? 5203, 5203 with machining, 4203, etc?

mynewuseddoo · Mar 28, 2011

Go to an AC dealer. They will have a double row bearing for you.

SnoShark · Mar 28, 2011

10 M8

The primary springs were warrantied. Orange/Black was stock and breaking; replacement is yellow/white I think. I'm guessing you know of this.

Recall/update bracket for the A-arms.

Check oil pump to make sure the arm/lever isn't sticking after letting off full throttle.

Check the routing of the spark plug wires, especially near the main coolant line coming out of the antifreeze reservoir. They like to rub together.

x2 on the bearing. I was never able to find the "general consensus."

Coldfinger · Mar 28, 2011

The 5203 is optimal. Seems like 50/50 whether you need to machine or not. Recently seems the trend is to not machine but remove the DD to install.

The 4203 is NOT an angular contact, but should be stronger than a 6203 but for $45 it is not readily available and BDX says the 5203 is the way to go.

Me, I was in a hurry last fall and just put a "quality" 6203 SKF Napa in and figure to pull the DD apart after 500-800 miles or so to check it. Figure I would pull it apart anyhow and at that time a consensus for the "right" fix was non-existent. Plus, the $11 6203 was readily available.

winch_warrior · Mar 28, 2011

Remember that there were actually two clearance issues with the Diamond Drive bearing. I'm giving credit where credit is due........Mega Thread on the Diamond Drive Bearing. Saved my ***!

1) If you update to the 5203 double roller bearing you need to check clearance of the cover and do not "pull up" with the cover screws. Take 10 min. and pull the entire Diamond Drive out, much easier. The Diamond Drive cover should "fall" back onto the Diamond Drive housing with no interference. If the cover doesn't go back on then you need to machine the Transfer Gear Shaft. I ended up machining off .046 so my cover would go back on with the 5203 bearing.

2) The second issue was that some 2010 and 2011 M8's had problems with the tunnel being to narrow and putting excessive "side load" on the transfer gear bearing. Even with the 5203 bearing, if your tunnel is too narrow then there is way too much side loading on transfer gear bearing. I ended up bolting up my Diamond Drive up with the sled on it's side and tighten up to the tunnel. Put a dial indicator in the middle of the Diamond Drive cover and slowly loosen the Diamond Drive assembly while closely watching the dial indicator. I had .098 "outward" deflection from the tunnel and the Diamond Drive. That meant my trackshaft was pushing out on the tunnel because the tunnel was too narrow. I machined .108 off the trackshaft. (.054 per side).

I rode the piss out of my 2011 M8 this year and just pulled my Diamond Drive last weekend after 953 miles to inspect. 5203 bearing is as tight as the day I put it in, no metal flakes in the Diamond Drive oil. I pulled the seal off one side just to verify all the rollers were still intact. All was good.

M6johnny · Mar 28, 2011

If I had to start over, I would have bucked up the 250 for a billet spider for the primary. I waited too long and mine turned into a shrapnel throwing bomb. I just sent out a polaris p-85 to get machined to fit my 2010 m8. Crappy deal, but trust me on this one, do the billet or the p-85 upgrade. That cat primary is a ticking time bomb!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :frusty:

Oh, and invest in either a revalve for the rear shocks or send them to Fox for the Burandt upgrade. World of difference in ride and getting up on the snow!! Good luck with your new toy!! :face-icon-small-coo

GarageTime · Mar 28, 2011

I think I had a blue or purple primary and an orange secondary spring. The secondary spring actually looks like it is collapsed a little bit at one end and the outside of the spring has contacted the clutch housing (the paint is worn off).

What is the deal with the A-arms?

I talked to BDX today and they said use the 5203 but take the case out to install it and it would be fine. I will pay attention to the case halves when I reassemble it.

M6johnny · Mar 28, 2011

GarageTime said:
I think I had a blue or purple primary and an orange secondary spring. The secondary spring actually looks like it is collapsed a little bit at one end and the outside of the spring has contacted the clutch housing (the paint is worn off).

What is the deal with the A-arms?
I talked to BDX today and they said use the 5203 but take the case out to install it and it would be fine. I will pay attention to the case halves when I reassemble it.

There was a recall on the a arms but not a full recall. You have to get a set of bolt on parts to reinforce the welds. No biggie, but kinda lame. I was hoping for a new set of orange a arms to match the rest of the sled.

Don't forget about doing something with your primary, seriously!!!

Coldfinger · Mar 29, 2011

GarageTime said:
I think I had a blue or purple primary and an orange secondary spring. The secondary spring actually looks like it is collapsed a little bit at one end and the outside of the spring has contacted the clutch housing (the paint is worn off).

What is the deal with the A-arms?

I talked to BDX today and they said use the 5203 but take the case out to install it and it would be fine. I will pay attention to the case halves when I reassemble it.

RE the 5203 & what BDX said - so even if there is side loading from the shaft it doesn't matter? I assume the DD cover will fit fine with the DD unit pulled out?

GarageTime · Mar 30, 2011

Coldfinger said:
RE the 5203 & what BDX said - so even if there is side loading from the shaft it doesn't matter? I assume the DD cover will fit fine with the DD unit pulled out?

He made it sound like it would assembly easily (and without problem) if I did it with the DD out of the sled. It really is quite easy as I did it on my 06 last night...which already has the 5203 bearing.

I did not ask him about the side loading due to a narrow tunnel or long shaft.

I also talked to my dealer about the primary clutch issues and he showed me the spider cracks - he had a cardboard box with a few stacked in there. He said you can take the cover and spring off and then see if there is excessive wear on the shaft - if there is excessive wear then time to replace it. He made it sound like no big deal and they seemed to happen around 1500 miles. I don't think it is 'no big deal' that there is this much potential of not being able to ride my sled back to the trailer each time I ride. I don't really want to replace the clutch every 1000 miles or so. I sold my 2003 RMK at 3500miles without a single clutch issue - or any other type of issue for that matter...

Brett Slagle · Mar 30, 2011

Besides all the good input thus far...

Your oil tank will warp and then leak because of exhaust heat. There is a guy on here that sells a $10 dollar fix. Do a search.

I've seen some problems with the track tension bolts. I carry a couple extras with me because they break. I've seen it on a few sleds thus far. I think we got it boiled down to a bad batch of bolts that AC put on the boxed up rigs. All the bolts I've replaced have held up like normal.

Lube the throttle line. It will get water in it, freeze and then it won't run until it is unfrozen. PITA.

DD and primary will be your two biggest issues. DD is curable with routine maintenance and the primary is not really curable... The real cure is a P-85. Billet spiders are an option. Racinstation rebuilds primaries too... so call him if you want yours rebuilt.

Also, on the DD... it is best to do your summer maintenance on them early in the summer. So when you call it for a riding season, try to pull the DD the next weekend. They get water into them sometimes and it'll rust if you are not quick about it.

Have fun!

MT rydn · Mar 30, 2011

anti stab

anti stab kit if not already mentioned

20k miles · Apr 1, 2011

GarageTime said:
Hey Guys,
I picked up a low mileage 2010 M8 162 over the weekend. Rode it yesterday and it is awesome. I felt a little clumsy at first but after a couple hrs I was loving it.

Is there any updates I need to do to keep it healthy? I ask this as I had to tow a buddy out yesterday with a busted up DD on his 2005. Are there issues with the 2010 DD???

It has an SLP can and Cutlers secondary and it ran great - anything else I should consider doing?

So far, I am very happy with the purchase.

Thanks!

I put a fuel pressure regulator on mine and dropped it from 45 to 40, it cleaned up the totally black plugs and made it snappier.

The FP was the biggest improvment aside from the p-85 I have a can, bdx airbox, not much power difference if any, some weight loss I guess.

I also turned back my oil pump link 2 turns, revalved my shocks.

I would light that thing on fire before I put that A arm kit on it.

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2010 M8 Sno Pro - new owner questions

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