Did a trail ride with the wife over the weekend, on a groomed trail and 20+ degrees. Never saw over 132 degrees on the trail and 105ish off trail.
18 MC EB overheating
- Thread starter dboivin
- Start date
Historically cats have run a little hot in the midrange with the timing they run. As long as you're staying under 150 degrees I wouldn't worry about it. If you really want the long cooler, get a list together of all the mods you want to do to your sled, and have the parts ready because you'll have it torn down far enough to do them all in one shot.
I noticed is that my sled runs hotter when standing up vs sitting down. The difference is really noticeable when slow speed boondocking through the trees. I did some experimenting with overheating on my sled and I found that ride height in the rear skid makes a huge difference. When I'm sitting down the rear of the sled is squatted down more vs when standing.
Basically the closer the snow flap is to the snow, the cooler the sled runs. I suspect this is because it allows the snow flap to deflect the roost back on to the paddles more, which in turn carries the snow back up to the heat exchanger.
Normally I run 120 psi in the rear shock and when I dropped the pressure down to 110-115 psi there is a noticeable improvement in cooling. The draw back to being in the 110-115 psi range, is that there is more sag unloaded and ride quality/handling was somewhat reduced.
Taking it to next level I decided to try a Hygear dual pressure reservoir on the rear shock. Basically it makes the shock in to an EVOL type shock. Depending on where you set the pressures, a dual pressure shock is more linear. This allows you to be able run a slightly higher main chamber pressure and still utilize the full suspension travel without it becoming to stiff towards the end of the travel.
I set the main chamber pressure back up to 120 psi and 180 psi in the bottom out chamber. I have just one ride on it so far on firmer spring snow, but the sled rides better and more importantly the heat light never came on once all day! I'll probably have to wait until next season to know for sure if the shock mod helps with cooling, but so far the results look promising.
Basically the closer the snow flap is to the snow, the cooler the sled runs. I suspect this is because it allows the snow flap to deflect the roost back on to the paddles more, which in turn carries the snow back up to the heat exchanger.
Normally I run 120 psi in the rear shock and when I dropped the pressure down to 110-115 psi there is a noticeable improvement in cooling. The draw back to being in the 110-115 psi range, is that there is more sag unloaded and ride quality/handling was somewhat reduced.
Taking it to next level I decided to try a Hygear dual pressure reservoir on the rear shock. Basically it makes the shock in to an EVOL type shock. Depending on where you set the pressures, a dual pressure shock is more linear. This allows you to be able run a slightly higher main chamber pressure and still utilize the full suspension travel without it becoming to stiff towards the end of the travel.
I set the main chamber pressure back up to 120 psi and 180 psi in the bottom out chamber. I have just one ride on it so far on firmer spring snow, but the sled rides better and more importantly the heat light never came on once all day! I'll probably have to wait until next season to know for sure if the shock mod helps with cooling, but so far the results look promising.
