Why do a y-can on a m1000, when a stock 2010 m8 is just as capable and more reliable.

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 14, 2010

Some of you are way off base, the statement is.
Compare a y-can only m1000 to a stock '10 m8, not going to be much difference and most likely anyone that didn't have time invested. would pick the m8. I would bet if people didn't know which was which they would take the 8, (although we would know)

I do run both boxes, the PC box has more capability of tuning but not on the hill. I use the bd box for changes on the hill if need be, until I get the PC programmed accordingly, Last year I was having a horrible bog off bottom, I had to add a ton of fuel and the PC III will only add 10% low mid high, I added the full 10% at low then added (i think) +8, +5, +2 at 3000rpm on the bd and it ran great for the rest of the day, no idea what happened but it ran decent until after we got to good riding and I was making hard pulls and sidehills then an all out bog and thats when I would add the fuel on the bottom. Not sure if its a mod problem or a sensor going ??? and I'm not 100% sure I got it fixed but it didn't do it on the last ride last year. I'm wondering if it has something to do with getting heat soaked and going into a limp mode,

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 14, 2010

IDspud said:
300 plus reads, must still be an issue people have interest in. You can say that again, over a 1000 viewers in two days,

As for the m-1000 reliability, no offense wyo, but it looks to me like you could have taken out an m-8 with the mods you were playing with.

I consider them both to be awesome for reliability, have read several times recently that the m-10 is unreliable, still curios to see some examples that weren't self inflicted. Belts have been an issue for some, but plenty of m-8's and an occasional xp have been known to carry the same issue.

I'm not looking to buy or sell anything here, just looking for some issues that may be headed my way that I am unaware of. As of now, my m-1000 has been the most pull and go sled I have ever ridden. Thanks Kevin at MMSPORTS.

I am taking out m8's that weigh 70+lbs less, but thats not the point. I find mine reliable as well but there are many who have no idea and could wind up with problems. Your setup looks sweet though. I would like to try the SW pipe just to see.

IDspud · Nov 14, 2010

Your bog and extra pains with the two boxes etc. intrigue me. Mine took two rides to dial and I haven't touched it since. My biggest adjustment is actually removing fuel at the bottom, and adding at the top. The guy I ride with the most has just the y and a tunnel dump with stock pipe. His sled does extremely well, but definetely loads up on the bottom.. He could correct it for his pipe setup, but doesn't want to buy a box to subtract the fuel. I run very crisp and consistent with my setup, he runs strong, but lacks the consistency.

IDspud · Nov 14, 2010

One other thought, my two sleds listed below are similar other than bd box and tunnel dump can. The 1000 has NEVER experienced anything close to a bog. The 800 doesn't do it often, but it has bogged.

Dano702 · Nov 14, 2010

The only reason i own an 8 , is because i could not afford an M1 back then. I rode it stock a few times to break it in , i was a long ways from happy. Now days that 8 drinks Sunoco and 14 lbs is getting old . My new 09 M1 162 is the sweetest thing i have ever been on.

127 miles stock last year. 14 lbs on the thumper is going to be nice. I will never buy another 8 for myself . Maybe the wife might need a sled , a race gas 8 is a good ladies sled.

:focus: my stock 09 10 , is one nasty sob.

jakim · Nov 15, 2010

Quote:
Originally Posted by jakim

i am 400 miles from the nearest dealer of any brand. I ride from 0- 6000 feet and cover that in about 2 hours. We do not have any trails here and it is all cross country up hill rideing with an average snow fall of over350 inches. I tried to read every post on here just to learn stuff.

350 inches of snowfall?? where the He LL do you live??:face-icon-small-sho

Valdez Alaska. We ride from the the back yard across the bay at sea level and go straight up to about 4200 ft and than it starts to get a little steep and goes up to 6000ft. 1700 miles on my sled last year and I don't own a trailer.

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 15, 2010

Take into consideration my bog started when I added the PC III with slp map, shortly after adding the PC I lost my crank (bdx oil delete) when I got it back shortly after the exhaust temp sensor went and my clutch, I only have a 1 ride on the new parts so I'm not sure what caused the bog yet. But because I know what I'm doing it was only an interruption and not a lost day. These are also items you don't deal much with on a m8, but on a mod m1000 its bound to happen. On the stock ecu once the sled senses something is not right it will shut you down for the most part to save itself, part of the reason the warranty is as good as it is, with the Fuel controllers you can over ride it, but at times cause bigger failures. I once scared the cylinders on my 07 and lost compression to the point in would not run, and broke the spider at the same time, locking it in gear, I was able to dump enough fuel in it to gain compression and start it, but it took +60 on the bd box to do it and I road it out.

The point is still, either go for the power or go for the m8. If you don't know how to go for the power but want it, you can still go with the m1000, you just have to learn it first or you will spend less time on the snow and more in the shop(speaking from experience). If you don't have the money don't get a m1000, the more power you want the more it will cost upfront and in maintenance down the road.
Or get a good dealer to set you up if you trust them, I had my dealer set mine up but it still cost me so I figured it out from there, I am pretty sure I know these sleds now but who knows for sure, (Mine is about the only one that has had problems with this dealer that I know of) I just run them to the limits and have to know its going to handle it.

A m8 with lightweight mods and a good suspension will do things most people don't understand. It comes down to rider ability. I am not trying to get people away from the m1000 as I want it to stick around because I love it. Just trying to help people understand it along with there situation.

007 · Nov 15, 2010

428PONY said:
I do not want to be the *** of the bunch but in march I rode with a HOm8. Ipersonally ride an m1000 along with another guy. All weekend I listened to my 2010 m8 this my m8 that.

Now that is a classic! You said enough! Nut to BUTT! EWWW

KJP

backcountryislife · Nov 15, 2010

WyoBoy1000 said:
The point is still, either go for the power or go for the m8. If you don't know how to go for the power but want it, you can still go with the m1000, you just have to learn it first or you will spend less time on the snow and more in the shop(speaking from experience). If you don't have the money don't get a m1000, the more power you want the more it will cost upfront and in maintenance down the road.

You miss the other point though... you can go for more power without putting an expensive pipe on that adds low end bogs & tuning issues.

Few people do it because the aftermarket pushes pipes so hard, but after finally trying a relatively full setup without one, I won't buy another one anytime soon.

There's more to getting power out of a 1000 than a pipe.

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 15, 2010

No I get your point and am not arguing with what you have done or your purpose for doing it or for that matter anyone that has a purpose and know what they are doing. But even the y-can combo requires tuning to get the full potential, and you should have egts or do some basic tuning from the start. I have also seen many m1000 with full pipe setups that ran perfect from day one without any tuning issues, and a y-can setup that had tuning issues (bogs and ran lean). All I'm saying is don't think you can do a y-can only and run with a 2010-11 m8, most likely you wont. If you have planes on doing what ever it takes to beat that m8 then by all means do it in what ever way possible.

It's just stupid when I here, "yeah I got a M1000 and I'm going to throw on a y and can because it doesn't need a controller and it will be better than stock, it adds like 12hp and drops all this weight, the thing will be wicked sick" yeah until it locks up or a stock m8 kicks your a$$. So if your going to do it go for it weather its a full pipe or other mods I don't care just dont get caught up in this BS.
Like I've said before, I'll bet $$$ I can blow up a m1000 with only a y-can combo and no other mods, and most likely I can do it in minutes.

backcountryislife · Nov 15, 2010

WyoBoy1000 said:
Like I've said before, I'll bet $$$ I can blow up a m1000 with only a y-can combo and no other mods, and most likely I can do it in minutes.

We've run 4 of them here with Y, bdx intake, can without a single issue, Perhaps at lower elevation this can be a problem, but I have yet to see anything like that out of any of these setups. The egt readings I've seen on the 08 & 09 versions (never ran the egt on the 07's when it was just at this point) were WELL within the safe range. Y only... you may be right, but Y & intake, I'll bet my next paycheck that an M8 isn't going to be ending up on top. (you're comparing 182ish hp to 164 & less torque with only about a 18lb weight advantage at that point (assuming both have cans)

I've owned both of them (2 8's & 3 1000's), and still do. Also ride with a good variety of different mod sleds (07- 2010 M8's & 07-09 1000's) & the sleds that have had that setup are well above stock. If you feel you'd blow them up, I'm not sure how. I've seen many thousands of miles from 7k to 13.5k on those setups & just don't see it.

I'm not trying to be disagreeable... but I disagree:face-icon-small-ton!

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 15, 2010

Elevation is a big factor and I have never gone above 10,500 in most cases and down at 6k its a lot worse. But at 9-10k mine ran much better with added fuel and although it may not have burned down, egts in the high 1200 are to close. My argument is with a y-can only nothing else. I also know many y-can setups that ran for a long time but when a friend has a y-can and all I had (at the time) was the slp exhaust (and was down on rpm) I stomped his a$$, he weighed 50lbs less then me and I'll bet I had another 10-15lbs of gear. But then another guy with a 2010 m8 in the same weight department -50 lbs stays right with me until the very last part of the hill but usually still makes it. ???
You have your points, I'm not going to bet you with your mods and really shouldn't be comparing at an altitude I've never ridden at, All in All I think you get my point, I get yours.

Pile snow on the hood so it can't breathe well then hold the throttle wide open for a minute and see what the egts are. let alone just riding it at 6100 rpm down the trail for a long time.

knzee · Nov 15, 2010

Wyoboy are you talking about hard pack snow drag up a hill when you keep referring to kicking everyones azz or deep powder hill climb? Two different worlds of clutching here. Or are you beating everything all the time on both snow conditions before your sled took a chit.

FCR112 · Nov 15, 2010

WyoBoy1000 said:
I have also seen many m1000 with full pipe setups that ran perfect from day one without any tuning issues, and a y-can setup that had tuning issues (bogs and ran lean). All I'm saying is don't think you can do a y-can only and run with a 2010-11 m8, most likely you wont.

It's just stupid when I here, "yeah I got a M1000 and I'm going to throw on a y and can because it doesn't need a controller and it will be better than stock, it adds like 12hp and drops all this weight, the thing will be wicked sick" yeah until it locks up or a stock m8 kicks your a$$.

Like I've said before, I'll bet $$$ I can blow up a m1000 with only a y-can combo and no other mods, and most likely I can do it in minutes.

Just to be clear,

Most of what is written above is exactly the opposite of what myself and the guys we run with have experienced. Altitude must make quite a big difference...

w4cstriker · Nov 15, 2010

I loved my 08 sp 1000 i only put a can on but it ran really well had no issues just the weight which was fine im a big man but when stuck with a bad back had to let it go otherwise love that pull it would give ya ,hope they keep making it.:tongue:

shanny · Nov 15, 2010

FCR112 said:
Just to be clear,

Most of what is written above is exactly the opposite of what myself and the guys we run with have experienced. Altitude must make quite a big difference...

I agree 100%, FCR. I've been running the bdx/y/can set up on an '07 for two+ years and no issues/bogs/lean conditions. ( at 9k and higher).I replaced the top end at 1500mi and the pistons looked great. The power IMO is very compairable to the '10M8 up until the end of a long pull. It's very possible that altitude is the difference here.

camocat1000 · Nov 15, 2010

All this talk has got me confused.I really like my m1000 but the new m8 is tempting me.

backcountryislife · Nov 15, 2010

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Whatever he said... I agree with.:face-icon-small-hap

1080paul · Nov 15, 2010

Yeah...I thought just a y-pipe and can would be silly so I added a pipe also. Then I figured since the pipes were off I may as well add a D&D 1200 kit. Heck why stop there so then came the light weight brake rotor, DDlite drive, and BDX intake. Too loose a few more pounds I figured a 141 would be fun then this week I just dropped another grand on STM valves and billet spider. Now I wish I had just gotten a 2010 M8...I probably could have bought two??

I think this thread is directed at the guy that's standing on the showroom floor looking at a new M1000 and a new M8 and wondering what to buy. If you just want to add gas, oil and go...I say buy the M8.

sadly I can't see any replies after this post.

backcountryislife · Nov 15, 2010

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Why the heck do you basic members keep posting in here??????:face-icon-small-sho

Why do a y-can on a m1000, when a stock 2010 m8 is just as capable and more reliable.

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