The Oil Delete Thread

ItDoAble · Oct 16, 2009

LeftyM77 said:
Good luck dude, im sure it will work out fine I'm doing mine as soon as I have time. how long did it take ?

Only a few hours. Take off belly pan, pipe, intake, throddle bodies, drain oil, etc.. Put in new Boyesen reeds while I was at it. Taking off the oil tank and pump were pretty easy, especially if you plan on not using them again. Did not take off y-pipe as per instructions.

More wrenching this weekend (Koso EGT, venting, hand/thumb warmers, change drive oil, launch my flying saucer, etc.).

backcountryislife · Oct 16, 2009

ItDoAble said:
Only a few hours. Take off belly pan, pipe, intake, throddle bodies, drain oil, etc.. Put in new Boyesen reeds while I was at it. Taking off the oil tank and pump were pretty easy, especially if you plan on not using them again. Did not take off y-pipe as per instructions.

More wrenching this weekend (Koso EGT, venting, hand/thumb warmers, change drive oil, launch my flying saucer, etc.).

WOW, I didn't do near that much to do mine!

I think I did pipe & belly pan, def. didn't do intake & throttle bodies, but it's a squeeze.

They come with instructions now? That would have been nice.

Nubulin · Oct 17, 2009

Anyone thought about hooking up a hose and remote mouting the zerk like they do on tractors? It seems like it would be a lot easier to give it 1 pump every ride that way? I don't like the idea on a hole in the belly pan.

89sandman · Oct 17, 2009

itdoable, how'd you like those boyseen reeds? been thinking about adding a set since i've got mine all tore down. did you buy the ones that go in the stock reed cages?

ItDoAble · Oct 17, 2009

89sandman said:
itdoable, how'd you like those boyseen reeds? been thinking about adding a set since i've got mine all tore down. did you buy the ones that go in the stock reed cages?

Don't know yet (waiting for parts to fix a gas tank leak) .. they are the 2 stage reeds in the stock cage. Should be more responsive (so I've read). They did seem stiffer then stock. One of my original reeds was shot so I thought I'd try the Boyesen.

Be sure you order the PN with an 'E' on the end for EFI. Boyesen's PN on the internet was wrong, only listing the carb ones (same PN w/o an E).

Must say they have excellent customer service. Priority mailed me a new set with a return envelope for the wrong ones. Though you can probably get them a little cheaper if you don't order direct.

BarkBustnOutlaw · Oct 18, 2009

how much weigh do you think you loss doing this mod.

Comp 670 · Oct 18, 2009

The proper way that has been proven to work 100% over the years is to pull a cyl off and drill a 45* hole in the upper case half down into the oil cavity so the water pump shaft gets oil from the fuel/oil premix.There is a hole there allready that supplys the bearing with oil,I drill right next to that at a 45 angle into the oil cavity.I have done over a 100 cases like this with never a failure or worry.No lines to worry about,gravity drips oil/fuel down into the hole at all times.No pumping action or anything else needed to make it work.

I belive D&D,Speedworks,CPC and others all do it this way also.....

JHG · Oct 18, 2009

AA/AT said:
The proper way that has been proven to work 100% over the years is to pull a cyl off and drill a 45* hole in the upper case half down into the oil cavity so the water pump shaft gets oil from the fuel/oil premix.There is a hole there allready that supplys the bearing with oil,I drill right next to that at a 45 angle into the oil cavity.I have done over a 100 cases like this with never a failure or worry.No lines to worry about,gravity drips oil/fuel down into the hole at all times.No pumping action or anything else needed to make it work.

I belive D&D,Speedworks,CPC and others all do it this way also.....

I agree that this is the best way to do it, the next ones I do I'm going to do them this way.

snowmobiler · Oct 18, 2009

AA/AT said:
The proper way that has been proven to work 100% over the years is to pull a cyl off and drill a 45* hole in the upper case half down into the oil cavity so the water pump shaft gets oil from the fuel/oil premix.There is a hole there allready that supplys the bearing with oil,I drill right next to that at a 45 angle into the oil cavity.I have done over a 100 cases like this with never a failure or worry.No lines to worry about,gravity drips oil/fuel down into the hole at all times.No pumping action or anything else needed to make it work.

I belive D&D,Speedworks,CPC and others all do it this way also.....

sounds like your drilling without splitting the cases?would be cool if anybody could post the hole pic.:beer;

Comp 670 · Oct 18, 2009

Drilled many without splitting the cases.Just flip the engine upside down or tape off the crank area with duct tape to catch the chips and grease the drill bit.Also helps to have a shop vac sucking the chips away.

Going to do this to my GF's M8 next weekend when I have it apart to inspect everything.I really hate oil inj,you never know if it's working and even if it is it's prob putting the wrong amount of oil in anyway.

snowmobiler · Oct 18, 2009

ok.might do this someday.do you use like a speed square to get a 45* to hit gold and not the bearing?

or is there plenty of room for error.thanks

Comp 670 · Oct 18, 2009

I just "eyeball" it...There is some room for error but not a ton.Never missed yet though.:face-icon-small-hap

Passelat · Oct 18, 2009

It would be great with a picture off this drilling

Both my cylinders are out and I think I will drill my case when I already have the cylinders out.

ItDoAble · Oct 18, 2009

Two things I learned when putting it in this weekend.

First is I put in a zerk and left it overnight without filling as it was very late in the evening. In the morning there was a 1/2 dollar size puddle of injection oil on the floor. Was leaking out of the zerk. Either the zerk was defective, or they are not designed to hold back that thin of a fluid. Was afraid if at some point the grease washes away by premix, it would continue to leak.

So, given the leaking and that you can't inject engine assy lube in a zerk anyway, I errored on the safe side and filled it with lube then put the bolt in. I can still pull the bolt a few times a season and fill it back up with grease if needed.

Second is the left side of the sled is now significuntly heavier then the right side. Might have to put the stock can back in to balance it out.

Not really ..

Need to win a quick pick so I can get a BDX lite DD.

Vertical-Extreme · Oct 24, 2009

snowmobiler said:
you cant get a drill lined up straight on the mag side with engine in sled.so i guess ill do the oil in the tube thing or zerk.

Why not drill in the same spot on the PTO side? You can get at it with the motor in? Is there any issues with this ?

GettnUnstuck · Oct 26, 2009

Oil Delete

Ok, so i'm going to run premix in my 09 M8, my only question is since the injectors will be injecting the oil with the gas... this will lean it out, correct? If so, what fuel to oil ratio would be the best/safest?

Vertical-Extreme · Oct 26, 2009

LeftyM77 said:
Why not drill in the same spot on the PTO side? You can get at it with the motor in? Is there any issues with this ?

I answered my own question this weekend while installing the delete kit on my TM8. the reason I chose to do this mod was not because I think the engines are starved for oil in a turbo application, but due to there being no room for changing reeds and doing any other matenence related to having a turbo. as for the install it went "fairly" smooth after I got the oil tank out. here are some things to look out for if you decide to do this:

1.) The bolts that hold the oil tank to the frame are locktited to the nuts that are injection molded to the tank itself. With mine the nuts striped in the plastic on the first turn, so I ended up having to use a cutting wheel on the die grinder and cut the heads off the bolts (not a good way to start.)

2.) you do not have to take the Y pipe off as per the instructions. there is lots of room once the air box and t-bodies are removed.

3.) the instructions tell you to connect the oil injecton holes in the reed boots with a peice of the existing hose, I never had a peice that was long enough to do this, lucky for me my brother had some clippard line around that was the right size.

4. The vacume packing that the bdx kit came in basically
ruined the instructions, not that it is too hard to figure out, but sometimes a reference is nice. there was also one step in the instuctions that made no sense.???

5.) you can drill and tap the case while it is in the sled, you just drill in the exact spot on the PTO side of the case. drill slow and grease the drill bit, and the case is a bit thicker than .75, but you will know when you are through becase some gas / oil mix will come out. Then you can clean up the hole and run the tap in.

6.) we used the shop vac after drilling and a couple times while tapping the hole just to make sure the inside of the case was kept clean.

7.) make sure you install the oneway valve right and you are all set.

after doing this once I would not hesitate to do another, as long as thhe tank came out a bit better.

thanks to Chris79 and RJM350 for the help and beer fetching :beer;

Vertical-Extreme · Oct 28, 2009

gettnunstuck said:
ok, so i'm going to run premix in my 09 m8, my only question is since the injectors will be injecting the oil with the gas... This will lean it out, correct? If so, what fuel to oil ratio would be the best/safest?

40:1

christian · Jan 26, 2010

I didnt need to read this now I am all worried my $hit gonna seize up....

guess I slap a zerk in there till someone figures this out....forsure

rooster740 · Jan 26, 2010

christian said:
I didnt need to read this now I am all worried my $hit gonna seize up....

Ex-Lax Stool Softener patient advice including side effects

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