Polaris clutch change over

FTXMOTORSPORTS said:

Worst case turnaround is currently 7-8 days. We are currently stocking the 2010 800 application since we have seen the most demand for it-all others we are building on demand-the clutches are in stock so the wait is only on our machine shop scheduling.

This is the first season of use on the 800, second season on the 700 and big bores there of and we've been selling this set up for the old 1m 8/900(and 1000, 1150 big bores) for four years now.

If you maintain this clutch as expected with any clutch it will far outlast your Cat primary. for high milers, abusive conditions or turbos, we pull them apart twice a season and shim the spider buttons along with checking the weight pin bushings for wear and replacing if neccessary. expect to replace the cover and moveable bushings every season if you are a high miler or turbo owner, every other season if not.

This is easy maintenance to perform and cheap if you stay on top of it. We can supply the tools and parts for you to do this at home-its great beer thirty work!

Like any other clutch, don't expect to thrash on it for 1500 miles with zero maintenance-it will cost you in performance and the wallet:face-icon-small-sho

Hmmmm, I think its time for a clutch maintenance video...

Curt

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snosurfer said:

I tried a few primary and secondary combos with mixed results . First was a.c. primary with cutler adj. 65 grams (i ride around 8 to 10 thousand ft) with stock yellow spring and polaris team red spring in the sec. little snappier on the bottom end but lost some shift out over stock. Next, same prim. change secondary helix to 46/40/34 progressive helix with a orange cat spring, again a little more pull of the bottom but still wouldn't shift completely out. Next new cat primary with titanium spring (same rate as yellow/white), change the sec. to a 10.4 and a RTK torsional kit with a 34/38 helix and a green snopro spring. Pulled better thru the whole range, but still lack full shift out on primary about 7/8 of a inch from top of sheaves,this setup still shock the track pretty hard off acceleration even with 20 thousandth sheave clearance in the primary. Then change to the p85 conv. in prim. and kept the same 10.4 set up in the secondary. Much more consistent pull at take off with out as much track spin but pulled very liner and still seemed to be lacking top end track speed on pulls and subsequently trenching and momentum loss. Lastly, change the sec. back to the 10 inch clutch with the 46/40/36 and orange spring and this was the ticket. Launches of the line with hardly any track spin, pull your arms off as it accelerates and fully shifts out the primary. It climbs way,way better than the previous set up building momentum and not trenching out as you near the top of climb. I know this is a lengthy response to your ? but I feel you should know how I got there, just not by chance, but trying a bunch of combos in every different snow condition possible. And by the way I ride with 5 other m7 and m8 from stock to fully modded and none of their clutch combos preform like this set up does. I've also done many more mods way to many to list big bore/ susp/gearing to name a few but out of all of those the p85 made the most difference. I sound like a salesman for the p85 conversion,but honestly I've spent more money and time on this sled then I care to admit and it finally performs like it should.:face-icon-small-coo

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kidwoo said:

As expensive as the FTX cut clutches are, I've wondered if it's worth it just to buy one of these and get them setup how you want.


http://www.stmpowersports.com/stm-rage-snowmobile-primary-clutch/

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