2013 belt failures

backcountryislife · Dec 11, 2012

UtahEdge said:
So before the updates I didnt have any blet problems. Am I going to have issues now that they put the spacer in when they did the updates?????

That spacer should only effect you if you're running high top speeds, basically the idea behind it is to keep the belt from bottoming out. If you only allow the sheaves to spread so far, then it can't bottom out the belt.

Pretty simple idea that might save some guys a belt or two!

voodoo · Dec 11, 2012

Longer belts help. 144-4640 or 144-4616 Ultimax pros have held up to repeated grass drag launches at 300+ HP. At $75 on Amazon they are alot less money. I think the stock belt is too short as we have the same problem of snapping them on long pulls across the lake with any load on the system at all.

JP47 · Dec 11, 2012

What is the height of the clutch spacer.

racin2fast · Dec 11, 2012

voodoo said:
Longer belts help. 144-4640 or 144-4616 Ultimax pros have held up to repeated grass drag launches at 300+ HP. At $75 on Amazon they are alot less money. I think the stock belt is too short as we have the same problem of snapping them on long pulls across the lake with any load on the system at all.

So are the ultimax's a direct replacement?

markoo · Dec 11, 2012

I'm pretty sure the spacer is only for the 800. the 1100 don't have them.

type_a_positive · Dec 12, 2012

2013 PROCLIMBs 1100T do have them

My 2012 secondary reaches 1.450 offset with no shims behind it. This is the recommended offset with the stock AC belt. With a longer belt, like the Carlisle XS 822, recommended offset is 1.420 (tested by Clutchweight). I am going to shave off 0.030 of my 2012 secondary. It seems 2013 secondarys allows for this offset without modifications.

markoo · Dec 12, 2012

You are correct. 2012 1100 doesnt have one, 2013 1100 does.

Turbo11T · Dec 12, 2012

type_a_positive said:
2013 PROCLIMBs 1100T do have them

My 2012 secondary reaches 1.450 offset with no shims behind it. This is the recommended offset with the stock AC belt. With a longer belt, like the Carlisle XS 822, recommended offset is 1.420 (tested by Clutchweight). I am going to shave off 0.030 of my 2012 secondary. It seems 2013 secondarys allows for this offset without modifications.

My 2012 Had a .065 spacer behind the clutch.

catf1000s/p · Dec 12, 2012

backcountryislife said:
That spacer should only effect you if you're running high top speeds, basically the idea behind it is to keep the belt from bottoming out. If you only allow the sheaves to spread so far, then it can't bottom out the belt.

Pretty simple idea that might save some guys a belt or two!

there is only one problem with that, if you stop the secondary from full shift, the primary will still push the belt up to the top and then the belt becomes to short and will snap it.

watch the video's on the clutchweights thread, the driven shaft bows to much period, when the driven shaft bows, it will put your alignment out period. I don't need to sell anyone a shaft, I had them made to fix the sleds tohelp you guys out, I don't make enough money on them to even count it, I have the connection's and I use it to help out, there are many things that need attention. the saying goes, If you want to play, you have to pay, there are many parts out there to make these sleds flawless the wat they should of been. some are pretty cheap and do more than you think.

when a driven shaft flexes like they do, you need your driveline right because of the hp these sleds put out, sorry but the stock shaft does not cut it with the new designed TCL system. sorry to say, the drivline on trail sleds with out any power adder's is done at pretty much 3k miles, shaft gears and chain done, time for new.

The secondary is not letting go of the belt as fast as the primary wants to pull it, I told you guys this last year, there is a reason that dalton has sold so many secondary springs. Its a tad lighter on start and open pressure. good luck if anyone is running a clutch spacer to keep it from reaching full shift.

just like stated here about cutting you 2012 secondary post, if you cut off to much, the inner step will stop your secondary
from seating where it needs to on your driven shaft, that step shown in the picture needs to be at least 0.650 after you cut the end of the secondary post, watch out how much you cut off your secondary post.
Good luck guys

Mcatcrazy · Dec 12, 2012

catf1000s/p said:
there is only one problem with that, if you stop the secondary from full shift, the primary will still push the belt up to the top and then the belt becomes to short and will snap it.

watch the video's on the clutchweights thread, the driven shaft bows to much period, when the driven shaft bows, it will put your alignment out period. I don't need to sell anyone a shaft, I had them made to fix the sleds tohelp you guys out, I don't make enough money on them to even count it, I have the connection's and I use it to help out, there are many things that need attention. the saying goes, If you want to play, you have to pay, there are many parts out there to make these sleds flawless the wat they should of been. some are pretty cheap and do more than you think.

when a driven shaft flexes like they do, you need your driveline right because of the hp these sleds put out, sorry but the stock shaft does not cut it with the new designed TCL system. sorry to say, the drivline on trail sleds with out any power adder's is done at pretty much 3k miles, shaft gears and chain done, time for new.

The secondary is not letting go of the belt as fast as the primary wants to pull it, I told you guys this last year, there is a reason that dalton has sold so many secondary springs. Its a tad lighter on start and open pressure. good luck if anyone is running a clutch spacer to keep it from reaching full shift.

just like stated here about cutting you 2012 secondary post, if you cut off to much, the inner step will stop your secondary
from seating where it needs to on your driven shaft, that step shown in the picture needs to be at least 0.650 after you cut the end of the secondary post, watch out how much you cut off your secondary post.
Good luck guys

catf1000s/p,
It looks like you have this all figured out except you are talking about many things all at once and not really saying what the main problem is. It sounds to me like you are suggesting that driven spring is what is causing the belt to snap? Correct? I understand the driven shaft and alignment issue with the horsepower, which is most definately going to lessen the life of the belt but my problem is snapping/complete belt failure each time I try to run WOT for more than a couple seconds. Thanks for the help.

catf1000s/p · Dec 12, 2012

Mcatcrazy said:
catf1000s/p,
It looks like you have this all figured out except you are talking about many things all at once and not really saying what the main problem is. It sounds to me like you are suggesting that driven spring is what is causing the belt to snap? Correct? I understand the driven shaft and alignment issue with the horsepower, which is most definately going to lessen the life of the belt but my problem is snapping/complete belt failure each time I try to run WOT for more than a couple seconds. Thanks for the help.

New updated spacer, to short of belt if your sled does not have the new updated spacer, this has been covered all summer long with a sled on the dyno all summer, alot of sleds have a different C to C ,center of the primary and center of the secondary distance and the belts vary to much in lenth, Do your self a favor, If your sled has a updated spacer to keep the secondary from fully shifting out, Take it out and you will find out the problem is gone, 2nd, if your clutches have not been taken apart completely and all the swill cleaned out, you will find out the clutches are sticking because of the swill/crap.

The stock driven spring is to fat and just a tad to much pressure but you have other problems with your sled, the stock spring makes to much clutch heat

Try it, you might like it

catf1000s/p · Dec 12, 2012

type_a_positive said:
Video of downward flexing of jackshaft (stock):

<IFRAME height=360 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/T7sKj15VZaM?feature=player_embedded" frameBorder=0 width=640 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>

and this motor was tied down so it didn't move, it is all jack shaft flex

catf1000s/p · Dec 22, 2012

primary clutch bushings to tight

If you guuys are having belt problems, have your primary clutch taken apart and have the bushings honed out a few= 0.005 many many 2013 primary clutches are to tight for how hot they are getting, fix it now or you will keep buying belts all season until the bushing breaks in enough

06m7 · Dec 26, 2012

catf1000s/p said:
If you guuys are having belt problems, have your primary clutch taken apart and have the bushings honed out a few= 0.005 many many 2013 primary clutches are to tight for how hot they are getting, fix it now or you will keep buying belts all season until the bushing breaks in enough

Your talking bout the bushing on the cover?

madmax · Dec 26, 2012

And on the movable sheave.

catf1000s/p · Dec 28, 2012

06m7 said:
Your talking bout the bushing on the cover?

both primary bushings

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2013 belt failures

backcountryislife

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voodoo

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JP47

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racin2fast

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markoo

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type_a_positive

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markoo

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Turbo11T

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catf1000s/p

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Mcatcrazy

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catf1000s/p

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catf1000s/p

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catf1000s/p

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06m7

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