Hypothesis on the rear hole for the front skid mount is for common part number front tunnel in raw form with trail sleds
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Suspension mounting location of 13's
- Thread starter Hilly
- Start date
Already did it to the turbo and works good
The kmod, equals more control in steep terrain and better float. second mod for my sled because it works. A subject for another thread.
I'm trying the lower hole in the rear of my Proclimb. How many of you guys have had good results with this? What dies this do, add ski pressure?
How many of you have had good results drilling a lower hole in the front location?
How many of you have had good results drilling a lower hole in the front location?
A
only changing the the rear is going to to put more ski pressure on it and make it trench worse.I would do just the front put ani stab in and call it good. The only reason i think they did both is for the 2.6,or correct me if i'm wrong. and they say it's going to get on top of the snow better no chit it's probably the 2.6 thats doing that not the the location.
Well I have a 2.5 CE under it now...
Won't the '13s have a problem with stabbing the track then, since they don't run an anti-stab kit stock?
I really want to do this mod to my sled, especially since I put a 156" 2.5" CE under it, I really want it to get on top of the snow better.
I just really don't want to risk stabbing my track, because I haven't had the time to install an anti-stab kit yet...
I really want to do this mod to my sled, especially since I put a 156" 2.5" CE under it, I really want it to get on top of the snow better.
I just really don't want to risk stabbing my track, because I haven't had the time to install an anti-stab kit yet...
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C
Did you drill a new hole for the front?
I didn't. Not yet, I want an anti-stab kit for the reassurance before I do.
There has to be some problem next season on the 2013s to fix for the 2014 model year, that's how sled development works or actually doesn't.
G
Pretty true from this ends point of view.
G
Wrong, IMO. But you will need a spring shock on the rear to make it work on the Cat skid.
I have found "drop out" is "anti-trenching" LOL, in deep snow and tighten the rear a bit is "anti-too-much-ski-lift" in the hero snow.
Funny what a few turns on a spring can do for a sleds attitude lol.
Now if I could just get an adjustable spring on the secondary again.
I
What spring did you use on the middle shock geo?
I
I already have a spring shock in the rear. Much better than the Float 2 IMO. Also have the 2.5 Camo X and anti stab; but can't decide if I want to run the top rear mount and leave the limit strap in the stock location, or go to the lower mounting location in the rear, and lengthen out the limit strap. Any opinions on this. Heading to McBride in a few days and if the forecast is true they are supposed to be getting some snow while we are there. I think it actually gets on the snow pretty well right now; but am really wanting to try the lower mounting location. However I think to counter act the increased ski pressure of lowering the rear of the skid I would end up running the limit strap loose if I do drop to that lower mount.
I
I dropped the skid into the low holes and I see what is meant by the rail tips. They do need more bend. I have my limiter straps all the way out and have antistab. Is this the preferred setup so far?
A
so geo are you just dropping the front with god results our are you dropping both. would like to know, thought my rail tips wher hitting but it was broken links in my chain from running the 19t with stock chain, shorter chain will be here monday.
G
I dropped both. Front drop was by moving lower front shock mount forward in the rails and rear was with the lower hole.
The rail tips are a real issue if you go beyond that 5/8" drop in the front.
Springs; finished with; 100 lb springs in front preloaded 1.5 to 2.5" (depends on how fast you need to go), 38" front, Doo DS skis.
middle, dual spring set-up, powder: 124 lb per in final pressure crossing over to a 200 lb finish at 2"out of 3" shock travel, zero preload
spring riding: 149 lb per inch final pressure crossing over to 250 lb finish at 2.5" shock travel
rear, 2011 spring (210 lb per in.) preloaded to 250 ish for powder to 300ish for spring time.
Next year, different rails puting 2" more track down at the front and another .5 down on the front tunnel mount. I'll trust my rail angles for lift. And, increase slow speed compression on both front ski and rear track shock and increase rebound on middle shock.
That's it. Already better than any M-sled I had and the 2.5" CE finished it for me. Tracks do make a difference maneuvering in the trees.
The rail tips are a real issue if you go beyond that 5/8" drop in the front.
Springs; finished with; 100 lb springs in front preloaded 1.5 to 2.5" (depends on how fast you need to go), 38" front, Doo DS skis.
middle, dual spring set-up, powder: 124 lb per in final pressure crossing over to a 200 lb finish at 2"out of 3" shock travel, zero preload
spring riding: 149 lb per inch final pressure crossing over to 250 lb finish at 2.5" shock travel
rear, 2011 spring (210 lb per in.) preloaded to 250 ish for powder to 300ish for spring time.
Next year, different rails puting 2" more track down at the front and another .5 down on the front tunnel mount. I'll trust my rail angles for lift. And, increase slow speed compression on both front ski and rear track shock and increase rebound on middle shock.
That's it. Already better than any M-sled I had and the 2.5" CE finished it for me. Tracks do make a difference maneuvering in the trees.
One of the best parts is the angle from the track to running boards gets steeper, so it acts skinnier, still not like mine but it helps. I basically did the drop with a kmod skid.
A
thanks guys i'll giver a try.
