My guess is they will GREAT as they are more rigid and more gooder and more thicker than all previous models.
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2011 RMK CONS
- Thread starter Priest
- Start date
My guess is they will GREAT as they are more rigid and more gooder and more thicker than all previous models.
More gooder... yes.
S
the tunnel has been out since 07 but has minor changes,
the rear suspension has been out for a LONG time other than no torsion springs,
the geometry of the bulkhead is the same as the iq, and has been out for a year on the rush,
the front suspension has been out since 05 other than the spindles,
the motor has been out since 08 other than Hope to god updates to make it reliable,
so basically its not a new sled........its pieced together parts that are upgraded.
so really the only worry is the motor....but seeing the 2010 motor was much better than the 08/09 and they have worked on it more so maybe the 2011 will be even better than the 2010.
D
Does it look like it will be harder to work on the engine with this new bodywork ? What will it be like to remove the exhuast manifold for example? I still remember saying NO WAY will I buy this sled when I first saw the Skidoo Rev years ago!
B
Will this sled come with anti ratchet drivers?
Did they put the running board rail setting to 11? ha ha
Looks like an interesting sled though.
B
10-4, Thanks. My 07 Dragon didn't have them. 6'8 300lbs, it's manditory. I'm seriously thinking of adding this sled to my arsenal, and don't want to have to fix it as soon as I buy it.
G
2011 pro rmk
Hey guys, I was at Seeley for the test ride and thought the new machines were great. I road the 2011 pro for the first half and then a 2010 800 Dragon 163 the second half and there is a big difference in sleds. The PRO is lighter and way more nimble and handles the rough bumps better. I think they should offer a 174" track option for for the mountain riders. I plan on buying one and putting that track under it.
Hey guys, I was at Seeley for the test ride and thought the new machines were great. I road the 2011 pro for the first half and then a 2010 800 Dragon 163 the second half and there is a big difference in sleds. The PRO is lighter and way more nimble and handles the rough bumps better. I think they should offer a 174" track option for for the mountain riders. I plan on buying one and putting that track under it.
Same driver one extrovert center......
You work on everything basic and easy from the side panels...exhaust, head pulling, and more extensive stuff you simply dis-assemble the center plastic (couple screws) and pull the support bars...possibly dis-connect the steering link.
handlebar stock ride height is 37 ish from footbed to grip/bar...about an inch taller then the stock 2010 dragon
Side support tube is now aluminum and it sounds like a placed insert but that is not defined. It's absolutely a larger diameter support but out of a different metal so who really knows the actual yields. This is my field of expertise so we put some added stress to it and I think you will find it to be similar with the 2010 in yield (Bending point or the point at which it won't return to it's original state). Your stock 2010 support bars can take 330ft/lbs at direct point pressure before they don't come back to the original state. That ain't much and isn't really enough as you can see from the thousands of wowed out ones running around. The style of the foot bed firms things up significantly so that will help a little. When guys buy this sled and see the value of Better Boards that will add even more "strength" in that aspect but I'm guessing that down the road we will be putting out another aftermarket product along the lines of our Better Bars for this sled. We'll see how many they sell and how things perform.
TBTURBO in on the 24th in Jackson we will release our all new Better Bars for all Polaris IQ RAW chassis. Check em out there, or online (www.snowmobilebetterboards.com) by that time. Lab reports just in 66% higher yield with 33% thicker inner wall diameter ...tie that with some HD (big boy big air version) Better Boards and you get the best of the best for the big boys that really get it done! (available in all colors as well)
here is one of the test sleds (looks just like stock except way stronger)
You work on everything basic and easy from the side panels...exhaust, head pulling, and more extensive stuff you simply dis-assemble the center plastic (couple screws) and pull the support bars...possibly dis-connect the steering link.
handlebar stock ride height is 37 ish from footbed to grip/bar...about an inch taller then the stock 2010 dragon
Side support tube is now aluminum and it sounds like a placed insert but that is not defined. It's absolutely a larger diameter support but out of a different metal so who really knows the actual yields. This is my field of expertise so we put some added stress to it and I think you will find it to be similar with the 2010 in yield (Bending point or the point at which it won't return to it's original state). Your stock 2010 support bars can take 330ft/lbs at direct point pressure before they don't come back to the original state. That ain't much and isn't really enough as you can see from the thousands of wowed out ones running around. The style of the foot bed firms things up significantly so that will help a little. When guys buy this sled and see the value of Better Boards that will add even more "strength" in that aspect but I'm guessing that down the road we will be putting out another aftermarket product along the lines of our Better Bars for this sled. We'll see how many they sell and how things perform.
TBTURBO in on the 24th in Jackson we will release our all new Better Bars for all Polaris IQ RAW chassis. Check em out there, or online (www.snowmobilebetterboards.com) by that time. Lab reports just in 66% higher yield with 33% thicker inner wall diameter ...tie that with some HD (big boy big air version) Better Boards and you get the best of the best for the big boys that really get it done! (available in all colors as well)
here is one of the test sleds (looks just like stock except way stronger)
2
All it takes is a 13mm wrench, a spring puller, and a somewhat longer ball end 6mm allen wrench once you get the hood off.
Granted things can always change between now and production models
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