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'11 Pro RMK 800 - Intermittent Cut-out Issue

Merlin

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Good afternoon,

'11 Pro RMK 800: SLP Pipe/can, high comp. head, & PCV fuel controller.

Last ride of the season the machine would cut out while riding at slow speeds. The machine would fall flat on it's face as if the ignition were being cut momentarily but the engine would remain running. You could then grab the throttle & carry on. As memory serves, it seemed to only happen when the throttle was squeezed for more power. I remember this because I just about ended up going over the hood several times as I was preparing for a climb or any other type of maneuver requiring an instant handful of throttle. LOL At that time, the throttle cable was adjusted properly but I played with the adjustment anyway to see if the machine would smarten up, to no avail. Snow conditions were marginal then, so snow building up in the throttle block was not a concern. Medium to full throttle operation was fine - no issues.

Decided to look into it this season before riding again & have done the following:

Checked TSS operation - measured resistance at ECM connector pins while cycling the throttle & wiggling wiring harness with no issues found. Even took TSS out of throttle block & tested on bench - smacked it around a little & sprayed with duster(CO2) to cool it down but it would not fail.

Checked hard kill input(kill & key switches & tether) - Checked for momentary ground occuring at ECM connector pin while wiggling wiring harness with no issues found.

Checked TPS sweep with DVM(no scope unfortunately) - Cycled TPS through range multiple times while wiggling wiring harness with no glitching noticed. TPS base & idle settings were at .710 & .931 VDC respectively(Readjusted to .698/.699 & .940 VDC).


Any suggestions on where to head next?


TIA


Glen
 

Pro-8250

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I had the exact same problem with my 2011. If I changed the plugs out it was fine for a while. Then after a while it did it again. Change the plugs then it was fine for a while and it did it again. I ended up trading it in but my guess and it's just a guess that, it was an injector problem. As I said, just a guess by going what I have read here on SW. I am no expert. :face-icon-small-hap
My sled was stock. Could it be a ETS maybe?
 

Pro-8250

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If I remember correctly it didn't run worth a crap with a bad ETS until I changed it. I have the same problem with my memory. :clock:
 

Merlin

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My machine was actually running good. Smooth & crisp, no missing or burbling.

The symptom was an intermittent & brief engine shutdown. As though the ignition(or possibly injectors) were being shut off momentarily during acceleration at low speeds.


If I remember correctly it didn't run worth a crap with a bad ETS until I changed it. I have the same problem with my memory. :clock:
 

xmk1080

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You said that the snow was marginal, was it warmer out and were you at higher altitude! Because if so your fuel could have been vapor locking, I had this happen on my 14 rmk.
 

Merlin

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Thanks for the info.

I misspoke somewhat. There was plenty enough snow to keep the machine from overheating but not over the bars fluff that may have caused TSS issues in the throttle block.

I've ridden when it was much warmer & much less snow without issue other than overheating.....

You said that the snow was marginal, was it warmer out and were you at higher altitude! Because if so your fuel could have been vapor locking, I had this happen on my 14 rmk.
 

Reg2view

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You've likely thought of a flakey stator, or weak ground already. These kind of issues are unglorious basterds.
 

Merlin

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A member of SW told me awhile ago that in a situation like that(slipping clutch) where the ECM detects an abnormally fast engine speed increase, it'll momentarily cut the timing like a rev limiter to compensate.

When my machine was acting up, the engine never really had a chance rev up, this issue seemed to happen the instant that I squeezed the throttle............



I had similar issues when I was slipping in the primary.
 

Merlin

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You've likely thought of a flakey stator, or weak ground already. These kind of issues are unglorious basterds.

LOL! So true!

I'll maybe do the resistance checks & jerk on the wiring harness to see if I can catch something while it's in the shop.

Thanks!
 

xmk1080

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Don't forget to check the fuel filter and fuel pressure under a load, especially since you don't have any codes!
 
X

xc6rider

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Any trouble reads thru DW from dealer? They can produce codes that wont display to the rider. Found that one out myself.. As well as having your cut-out probs to a T.


take a VERY close look at the plug that attaches to the TPS!! Pull the boot back, check all the weather pack seals, especially while plugging onto the TPS. Watched it and weather pack seal would pop up out of the plastic plug.

I had troubles here... Pulled em all apart, cleaned em etc. had one that had a weather pack seal crimped into the contact. Corrected that, and had one that was floating the weather pack up and out, leaving the connections loose/floating.


Previously, had a TPS that caused me HELL! Tested numerous times. 9/10 would test fine, then would fail. Fought that for like 3 trips. Finally just replaced the TPS.

While i was dealing with this crap, i made a TSS bypass plug to have on hand, nice to have!


The new TPS came before i found the connector probs. Zero probs after finding the tps connector issues.
 

Merlin

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Thanks,

The fuel filter was changed at the start of the season & the machine only got a whopping 4 rides throughout. I checked the pressure when I got back from having troubles last year but it was solid at 58 PSI.

If I don't find anything definitive on this issue I may take the press. gauge along on my first ride this season.


Don't forget to check the fuel filter and fuel pressure under a load, especially since you don't have any codes!
 

Merlin

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Thanks,

I likely should've had the codes checked before doing any troubleshooting but like to avoid "taking it in to the dealer" at all costs. If I can't find anything definitive on the problem with a bit more testing & if it acts up in the field again I'll have to break down & take it in.

Other than D.W. or the Bully Dog GT, does the aftermarket make any affordable code readers / scan tools for these machines yet?

Regarding testing the TPS, I back-probed the sensor return at the ECM connector while vigorously wiggling the entire wiring harness & connector on the actual TPS. Cycling the throttle about 100 times in the process. Couldn't find anything wrong......


Any trouble reads thru DW from dealer? They can produce codes that wont display to the rider. Found that one out myself.. As well as having your cut-out probs to a T.


take a VERY close look at the plug that attaches to the TPS!! Pull the boot back, check all the weather pack seals, especially while plugging onto the TPS. Watched it and weather pack seal would pop up out of the plastic plug.

I had troubles here... Pulled em all apart, cleaned em etc. had one that had a weather pack seal crimped into the contact. Corrected that, and had one that was floating the weather pack up and out, leaving the connections loose/floating.


Previously, had a TPS that caused me HELL! Tested numerous times. 9/10 would test fine, then would fail. Fought that for like 3 trips. Finally just replaced the TPS.

While i was dealing with this crap, i made a TSS bypass plug to have on hand, nice to have!


The new TPS came before i found the connector probs. Zero probs after finding the tps connector issues.
 
X

xc6rider

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Some guys were finding draw problems with the pumps i think, but good fuel psi was indicated. Im not sure off hand the amperage draw guys were checking for.


Sucks trackin these issues down, mine was sure frustrating.
 

Murph

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Spark plug boots /wires

Couple things to check. Spark plug wires-- the internal wire will erode over time at both the coil and cap end. Typically unscrew and clip wire back a few mm so that you see good amount of wire strands. Also, pull boot off spark plug and look for carbon buildup on plug top-- indicative of a loose connection and ignition arcing on loose connection. Sometimes the built up carbon will allow ignition to momentarily ground on the carbon, leading to a feeling of ignition cutout-- similar to kill switch being hit.
 

Deuce Mansfield

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Feb 6, 2013
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random cut out

my key switch connector had the slightest amount of corrosion on the pins, cleaned it off and dielectric greased it, fixed the cut out. another time my tether was faulty, it was a cheap one. upgraded to a better one, no further issues.
 
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