First Mods for 2017 174" LE?

MGPete87 · Dec 22, 2016

New to the forum, but just started getting back into riding again after a ~10 year hiatus.

Have always been a Polaris guy, but my dad took me out on his new 850 etec doo's (I think they are 155"?) and we had a blast last weekend at Strawberry (~5ft of POW below the treeline with zero base). Those machines are wicked and made it a tough decision, but the look/features of the LE totally justified the extra $$$ IMO.

Long story short, despite all the grief I've gotten from friends and family, I'm picking up a 174 LE tomorrow, but was curious as to which mods are most popular nowadays? Can? Pipe? Heads? Air pump :face-icon-small-coo? etc. Not to start any brand bashing, but would also like recommendations on brands for these mods as well and why you like them.

Thank you in advance!

MP

2XM3 · Dec 22, 2016

Turbo.....go ride it all ya need :face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap

G-Force · Dec 22, 2016

If you can't afford the turbo (like me :face-icon-small-fro) then the pipe and can wake em up nicely as well !

sledheadd · Dec 22, 2016

Parts going on my sled as we speak
Silber turbo
Kmod front end 37"
Elka front shocks
B&M fab bumpers and l.e boards
Kmod rear
Blow hole
C&A pro skis MTX

If on a budget I'd do turbo and rear skid first.
After owning a few turbo sleds what I've learned is the stock skid can't handle the extra hp. I do not enjoy spending 80% of the time riding on the rear bumper

MGPete87 · Dec 22, 2016

If you don't mind, what is the thought pattern behind the narrower front stance? I was under the impression that the wider stance offered more stability for taller riders? Maybe I'm just way off.

NoSoup4U · Dec 22, 2016

MGPete87;4020002 I was under the impression that the wider stance offered more stability for taller riders?[/QUOTE said:
It does. It's a personal preference thing. I prefer it wider myself.

ullose272 · Dec 22, 2016

Depends on how far you want to go. I like my slp pipe. I believe the clutching is the same for all the models of rmks. So a 155 2.6 comes with the same helix and springs as your 174. So probably not optimal for your sled. I did a shock revalve from carls cycle and its night and day better than stock.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

gonehuntnpowder · Dec 22, 2016

If you don't mind me asking what did Carl's charge for the revalve? I am a little disappointed in the ride of mine, but can't justify 2k in shocks.

ggcustoms · Dec 22, 2016

Gas. Oil. Throttle.
Maybe a can to make it non-stock or "yours".

ullose272 · Dec 23, 2016

gonehuntnpowder said:
If you don't mind me asking what did Carl's charge for the revalve? I am a little disappointed in the ride of mine, but can't justify 2k in shocks.

it was about $450, BUT they install high flow/higher quality FOX valves and shims in the shocks. IMO it was totally worth it, they are as good or better than the float 3 evols I had on my pro rmk

meathooker · Dec 23, 2016

The most fun non-mod motor or turbo sled I've ridden to date was setup by Kevin at Grizzly Motorsports in Caldwell Idaho. He has a shock valving package and pipe/can/clutching/tune that ROCKS!

Hit him up.

adamg · Dec 24, 2016

sledheadd said:
Parts going on my sled as we speak
Silber turbo
Kmod front end 37"
Elka front shocks
B&M fab bumpers and l.e boards
Kmod rear
Blow hole
C&A pro skis MTX

If on a budget I'd do turbo and rear skid first.
After owning a few turbo sleds what I've learned is the stock skid can handle the extra hp. I do not enjoy spending 80% of the time riding on the rear bumper

Did you mean to type "stock skid can't handle the extra hp?"

sledheadd · Dec 24, 2016

adamg said:
Did you mean to type "stock skid can't handle the extra hp?"

Yes sir
Fixed it !

Madtown · Dec 24, 2016

I have done the following & have been very pleased with results.

-Diamond S quite can, it's Ti & has close to stock sound levels
-ZRP offset spindles that give sled a 37 inch stance
-B&M rear bumper, helps support the tunnel
- Dielectric grease the harness connections & check pin fit
-Set TPM base with multi meter
-And most importantly a TEATHER!!!

MGPete87 · Dec 27, 2016

Thank you everyone for the feedback.

We took them out yesterday - first ride out on my sled. This thing is an absolute monster in the powder. It just doesn't get buried and you really don't even have to get after it to stay on top of the powder. I was idling past people that were stuck in 5'+ and just cruising along. My brother has already named the sled the Heber Creeper. I can just put put around where he has to rip on the throttle on his Skidoo 850.

Climbing is an absolute breeze, can't wait for this thing to get broken in to see what it can really do. I took this thing down/up a steep ravine and only had to go about 1/2 throttle, even with my 250 lbs. of lead on the sled.

We got up EARLY and were the only sleds there at 6:30am with 30"+ of powder on the main road for miles. It was so much fun that we turned around just so we could do it again before heading up top to go mess around.

OFT racing tether gets here today (going to replace metal hook with caribeaner or gator clip), still deciding on which can (don't want to lose HP so browsing dyno charts).

MGPete87 · Dec 30, 2016

OK so I think I've narrowed it down to the HPS can (for now unless I hear otherwise) and Pro-Armor Tether.

I'm still looking for a mount for the tether as I don't want to mount it on handlebars (Love Straight Edge Carbon mount but he doesn't produce those anymore).

Also, what about a handlebar riser? I'm 6'5" with gorilla arms, but I need a little higher riding position. I've read that 2" is the highest that you can go without swapping lines/cables. Is this true? If so, what do you guys think of PowerMadd vs. Rox? I can't tell if the PowerMadd is made out of plastic or aluminum, especially due to the price difference from the ROX.

Thanks!

Solby · Dec 30, 2016

I have a Powermadd for my regular pro rmk and it is aluminum. Works great, I think I had to buy allen socket bolts because the riser only came with hex head bolts.

MGPete87 · Feb 13, 2017

Now that you've had the chance to put some mileage on your sled, if you don't mind, I have a few questions.

1) How do you like the silber setup? Preference over MTNTK, BD, etc.?
2) Is the KMod rear necessary with the boost? How do you like the front? I can't find pricing on the front, but would like to keep my stock clickers for now so hopefully they are compatible
3) Did you do any tunnel/skid bracing to compensate for boost if you don't run the Kmod?

Just being wary of spending $15K on a $15K sled before any weight savings/wrap, etc.

Thanks!

homeboy · Feb 14, 2017

I have 174 LE with MTNTK at 9lbs boost and weight 275 with my gear

I am still running stock rear no need to run Kmod,
stock rear on 174 is handling horse power well

riding trees front was a little stubborn due to long track. took sway bar out that helped

put Zbroz 36in on and now is perfect I would think Kmod 37 in front would be good as well

I personally like exit shocks so I have X-1's on front and rear as well

sledhead9825 · Feb 14, 2017

homeboy said:
I have 174 LE with MTNTK at 9lbs boost and weight 275 with my gear

I am still running stock rear no need to run Kmod,
stock rear on 174 is handling horse power well

riding trees front was a little stubborn due to long track. took sway bar out that helped

put Zbroz 36in on and now is perfect I would think Kmod 37 in front would be good as well

I personally like exit shocks so I have X-1's on front and rear as well

I agree with Homeboy. I have pretty much the identical sled. The 174 skid with Exits is handling the power no problem.

First Mods for 2017 174" LE?

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