1100 problems

Dirty10 · Mar 5, 2012

Had nothing but problems yesterday!! Went into a climb and wrench light came on sled dropped 2000 RPM. it was a pretty good hill and couldnt get turned out all the way, dropped to bottom of the hill restarted sled seemed to run good so up the hill again and yet again same out come! Pulled side panels and hood checked all hoses for tightness put everything back together and pulled the hill with no problems. Turned to pull a chute next to it and 3/4 way up same thing sled appears very hot but never seen a temp light. Let it sit for 15 minutes or so and climbed 1 more time with no problems then next attempt same problem? Sled seems very hot, water boiling from over flow hose???

KSH · Mar 5, 2012

I was told from Cat there is no warning on overheating and that pushing fluid out could be a sign of a blown head gasket.

Jeff C · Mar 6, 2012

KSH said:
I was told from Cat there is no warning on overheating and that pushing fluid out could be a sign of a blown head gasket.

There is a warning........... The temp light comes on and the engine begins to surge and drops RPM's

I badly overheated my sled coming out of Cooke City to the parking lot on hard pack snow at 5am without the scratchers down......

As soon as it started to surge I shut it down,,,,,,,,, felt the oil tank and you could have boiled an egg on it.........

I bet I was 60-90 seconds from a burn down..............

Cooled it off and she ran fine to get it on the trailer..........

KSH · Mar 6, 2012

Jeff C said:
There is a warning........... The temp light comes on and the engine begins to surge and drops RPM's
.

I have no light until I have steam, If I feel it surge and immediately stop, I have steam.
When these symptoms were relayed to Cat I was inform that is normal, It is possible to overheat without having a light.

Twice this has happened to me, plus once it surged with no light but I was able to get into snow it cooled down.
Also my dealer was was test riding it out in West and had it overheat with no light.

So I take that as no warning.

skidrowe · Mar 6, 2012

SkidroWe

I had over heating problem last weekend on my turbo 1100 also. Running on flat ground in deep powder. No lights or codes, when I stopped for a break I opened my side panels to let some heat out, about a minute later coolant started to boil over, the oil vent line melted off and plugged and the side panels had started to melt. The sled would not start after it cooled down. I cut the oil vent line and it started fine. I rode for the rest of the day and all went well. I took the sled they are trouble shooting today

Dirty10 · Mar 6, 2012

Mine is at the dealer now doesn't sound like they have looked at it yet. I will let you all know what they find.. It was good snow and should have no way over heated something else has to be wrong.

M1000Kingcat · Jan 21, 2014

Dirty10 said:
Mine is at the dealer now doesn't sound like they have looked at it yet. I will let you all know what they find.. It was good snow and should have no way over heated something else has to be wrong.

So did you find out what your problem was?

I seem to have the same problem now on my XF1100T, coolanfluid is flowing out of the overflow hose without any overheating signs...

izzni · Jan 21, 2014

Try replacing the radiator cap. I had this problem on mine and it stopped pushing coolant with a new cap. I also extended the oveflow tube down to the exhaust area, and into an empty water bottle. Since radiator cap was replaced it has pushed out maybe 1/16 of a water bottle at most.

Also, make sure you bleed the coolant systen after you replace the cap. Get the sled's nose in the air (steep snowbank). Pull the hood off and loosen the bleed screw on the front of the head, under the heat shield. I drilled a hole in the shield to get at the screw.

These sleds have crazy hot air rolling off the turbo and being directed towards the coolant tank. The turbo also sends extremely hot water right to the coolant tank even after the sled has stoppee. It's likely why the coolant tanks and radiator caps fail so much.

The heat was so bad on mine that it cooked the charge tube where it touched the heat shield and split it. Caused a nice boost leak that the usless dealer thought was a clutching problem...

fastrthanu · Jan 21, 2014

low cap pressure equals low boiling point

have a 2013 1100t limited, from day one I would see a trace of green under my sled, tested rad cap, failed miserably, replaced with new cap that holds recommended pressure and wala, no leakage. MORAL of the story, if your cap only holds 10 lbs instead of the 15 it is suppose to, its boiling point will be much lower, allowing the machine to boil over at a much lower water temp, the higher the pressure on the cap, the higher the boiling point. pressure test the cooling system, pressure test the cap.:face-icon-small-win

nosajlleb · Jan 22, 2014

Yup they shut right down when you break and exchanger. Luckily I was on a mole hill or it wouldn't been pretty. JB weld got me back to the parking lot, lucky it was that or a helicopter ride(or a match and a rag). Got sled put back together with new cooler and the next ride the coolant tank split. Sold the machine, I'll wait for a supercharged mtn 4s machine as I think this turbo cat put out, comes way too incomplete. That hose Izzni is talking about is just stupid, I could here fluid boiling in my machine from the beginning, there is no way any of your tanks are gonna last that Antifreeze is above its boiling point when it enters that plastic POS. Why does the viper have an aluminum or steel one and the hot pocket turbo plastic? Any answers from Cat on that one good luck! How long will your new cap go before it fails to hold any pressure, that is the question?

plumberdood · Jan 22, 2014

Same happened to mine. Warmer day and a long wide open climb.It's your charge temps. Sled never over heated but would pull timing and show wrench code. I bought the cold air intake and evo fan last year and it never happened again.

M1000Kingcat · Jan 26, 2014

Ok, now I`ve replaced my radiatorcap with a new one, and done the bleeding procedure so there`s no air in my coolant system left.

But then this still happens: when I run full throttle coolantfluid comes out of overflow hose, but stops pushing out fluid when I stop and let the engine idle or just run with half throttle.

I also checked with a gauge on my system to see if there is any pressurebuildup from a broken headgasket or something. But everything seemed OK. Engine sounds ok at all times and no faultcodes.

And then some there were some other thing, when the snowmobile stands inside my garage it warms up from cold to operation temperature at normal time, but yesterday when I went for a testrun some miles away, it used nearly 10 minutes to warm up, this isn`t normal either...

Has someone any tips for me, I`m starting to get a bit out ideas at the moment

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1100 problems

Dirty10

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KSH

Steering Wheel Holder

Jeff C

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KSH

Steering Wheel Holder

skidrowe

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Dirty10

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M1000Kingcat

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izzni

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fastrthanu

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nosajlleb

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plumberdood

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M1000Kingcat

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