PERFORMANCE TIP: CLEAN YOUR BELT AND CLUTCHES, SET DEFLECTION... EVEN ON NEW SLEDS.

mountainhorse · Nov 9, 2017

Your clutches work hard.. and new belts have mfg residue on them.
After your clutches/belts are used.... more residue and glazing hamper performance. The "grip" of the rubber is reduced by heat glazing and aluminum/oily residues.

Especially true on high powered sleds we have today!

Even on new machines and belts.

Remove residues on clutches and belts to keep your sled working optimally.

The clutches are THE link from the engine to the remainder of the drivetrain.... pretty critical for optimal performance to keep them clean and well maintained.

You will need:
Owners manual for your sled.
Good degreaser cleaner
Stiff scrub brush
Gray or brown Scotchbrite pads
Brake cleaner
Good clean white paper towels

Remove the belt from the sled (note install direction).

Wash/Scrub the belt in really hot tap water and simple green, or some other good degreaser and a stiff scrub brush... and hang to dry....This removes the molding and mfg release compounds from the surface and other residue left from use of the sled.

Leave the secondary open from your removal... and clean the faces of the primary and secondary clutch sheaves with a scotchbrite pad.... "Wash" the faces following the scrub.... with brake cleaner and clean white paper towels until your final wipe has no residue on it. If there is still belt residue on the sheaves, repeat the process. Take your time to be thorough.

Re-install your belt...AND get out your owners manual.... Follow the instructions to set the belt deflection properly... in the rush at the factory...this is often not set just right.

Clean your belts and clutches periodically throughout the season to ge the most out of your belt and the best performance from the clutching you have !

My 2¢

.

TRS · Nov 9, 2017

Great post Eric.
If I may, I'll add one more step, blow out your primary with compressed air before starting the cleaning process. You'll be amazed at the amount of dust.
I clean my clutches and belt after every ride.

volcano buster · Nov 10, 2017

I used an ultrasonic cleaner last spring on my clutches. The contaminants that came out of my primary turned the solution (water/SimpleGreen) so black you couldn't see the clutch. And I didn't think it was that bad to begin with.

mountainhorse · Nov 10, 2017

Just out of curiosity... what is the make and model of that ultrasonic cleaner??

I'd love to find one like that for my business/shop.

.

TRS · Nov 10, 2017

mountainhorse said:
Just out of curiosity... what is the make and model of that ultrasonic cleaner??

I'd love to find one like that for my business/shop.

.

^^^^^^^

volcano buster · Nov 10, 2017

I'm on a budget so I didn't go for a commercial quality unit that can cost a significant amount more.

It heats, but I found it is easier to boil a big pot of water, then fill the rest with super-hot tap water to get it full. This speeds up the cleaning time instead of relying on the internal heaters to get 6 gallons of water hot. The purists would likely want to use distilled water, I'm not one of those. Simple Green or "Amaze" (I think that's right) from the Dollar store was recommended to clean with. No caustic chemicals.

It is large enough to submerge clutches which are the largest thing I could picture needing to clean. Anything larger I know a transmission guy. :face-icon-small-hap

When I was playing around with it, my mother-in-law was over. She collects coins and had one she couldn't identify as it was a large corroded coin we thought. After soaking for about an hour, I pulled it and spent another hour on the coin sites and figured out it was a 1769 era Irish half-penny. No way of telling until it was cleaned.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-30L-Ul...175968&hash=item5d524ca77a:g:C9QAAOSw44BYYzSO

Sage Crusher · Nov 10, 2017

volcano buster said:
I'm on a budget so I didn't go for a commercial quality unit that can cost a significant amount more.

It heats, but I found it is easier to boil a big pot of water, then fill the rest with super-hot tap water to get it full. This speeds up the cleaning time instead of relying on the internal heaters to get 6 gallons of water hot. The purists would likely want to use distilled water, I'm not one of those. Simple Green or "Amaze" (I think that's right) from the Dollar store was recommended to clean with. No caustic chemicals.

It is large enough to submerge clutches which are the largest thing I could picture needing to clean. Anything larger I know a transmission guy. :face-icon-small-hap

When I was playing around with it, my mother-in-law was over. She collects coins and had one she couldn't identify as it was a large corroded coin we thought. After soaking for about an hour, I pulled it and spent another hour on the coin sites and figured out it was a 1769 era Irish half-penny. No way of telling until it was cleaned.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-30L-Ul...175968&hash=item5d524ca77a:g:C9QAAOSw44BYYzSO

I like the idea- and look into it ... but not with that seller on ebay... had run-in's before with that one- you can look for your self with the link Volcano provided....

volcano buster · Nov 10, 2017

I wasn't promoting that particular seller, I was just showing the size/dimensions and the fact I got it off ebay. I weighed the price and shipping as some provided free shipping for a little more but less than the other guys that didn't cover it.

mountainhorse · Nov 10, 2017

volcano buster said:
I'm on a budget so I didn't go for a commercial quality unit that can cost a significant amount more.

It heats, but I found it is easier to boil a big pot of water, then fill the rest with super-hot tap water to get it full. This speeds up the cleaning time instead of relying on the internal heaters to get 6 gallons of water hot. The purists would likely want to use distilled water, I'm not one of those. Simple Green or "Amaze" (I think that's right) from the Dollar store was recommended to clean with. No caustic chemicals.

It is large enough to submerge clutches which are the largest thing I could picture needing to clean. Anything larger I know a transmission guy. :face-icon-small-hap

When I was playing around with it, my mother-in-law was over. She collects coins and had one she couldn't identify as it was a large corroded coin we thought. After soaking for about an hour, I pulled it and spent another hour on the coin sites and figured out it was a 1769 era Irish half-penny. No way of telling until it was cleaned.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-30L-Ul...175968&hash=item5d524ca77a:g:C9QAAOSw44BYYzSO

Thank you VB for taking the time to post that up for us.... Looks like a decent unit for stuff that I do....

HMM.... The money seems to fly out of the wallet !:face-icon-small-dis

SRXSRULE · Nov 11, 2017

Do your research.... Check some of the reviews on Amazon for these. Lots of guys saying the failed with in a couple of uses and no support from the manufacture. Just an FYI

#1 Wife · Nov 14, 2017

mountainhorse said:
Your clutches work hard.. and new belts have mfg residue on them.
After your clutches/belts are used.... more residue and glazing hamper performance. The "grip" of the rubber is reduced by heat glazing and aluminum/oily residues.

Especially true on high powered sleds we have today!

Even on new machines and belts.

Remove residues on clutches and belts to keep your sled working optimally.

The clutches are THE link from the engine to the remainder of the drivetrain.... pretty critical for optimal performance to keep them clean and well maintained.

You will need:
Owners manual for your sled.
Good degreaser cleaner
Stiff scrub brush
Gray or brown Scotchbrite pads
Brake cleaner
Good clean white paper towels

Remove the belt from the sled (note install direction).

Wash/Scrub the belt in really hot tap water and simple green, or some other good degreaser and a stiff scrub brush... and hang to dry....This removes the molding and mfg release compounds from the surface and other residue left from use of the sled.

Leave the secondary open from your removal... and clean the faces of the primary and secondary clutch sheaves with a scotchbrite pad.... "Wash" the faces following the scrub.... with brake cleaner and clean white paper towels until your final wipe has no residue on it. If there is still belt residue on the sheaves, repeat the process. Take your time to be thorough.

Re-install your belt...AND get out your owners manual.... Follow the instructions to set the belt deflection properly... in the rush at the factory...this is often not set just right.

Clean your belts and clutches periodically throughout the season to ge the most out of your belt and the best performance from the clutching you have !

My 2¢

.

Great post.
Curious as to what is the most common symptom one would experience by not maintaining clean clutch sheaves?
Would it be loss of peak RPM?
Thanks

900polman · Nov 14, 2017

brake clean

MH I was always under the impression that brake clean Was hard in the clutch causing possible cracking so I've never used it. hot soapy water and scotchbrite. I also blow out the clutches after every ride. The wife's dish washer works great on new belts.(don't let them catch you they get a little upset)

mountainhorse · Nov 14, 2017

I'm not aware of any brake cleaner being detrimental to the aluminum of a clutch face.

MAYBE (maybe) it has some effect on the bushings in the weights if you are soaking them down, but I doubt it.?

What have you been hearing exactly ?

.

LoudHandle · Nov 14, 2017

Acetone should be the choice if you want zero residue at the finish!

I’m not a fan of Brake clean; especially if the goal is to be truly clean. Brake clean regardless of brand dries and leaves a residue behind. Some are little more than kerosine in a can with propellant. And you really don’t want any petroleum based chemicals on the sheaves. IMO

For a true clean; Acetone is far better and leaves nothing behind as it dries / evaporates. Also has no negative effects on the aluminum nor the bushing material.

po-dunk rider · Nov 14, 2017

I’m curious about not using brake cleaner on clutches. I have read in couple other posts to never use it. I’ve always used it with no problems but if it’s harmful I’ll make changes. Great post BTW

mountainhorse · Nov 14, 2017

Just like any other "Harbor freight" quality tools... some are good and some don't hold up!

For that money... Looks good to me though.

.

mountainhorse · Nov 14, 2017

But good Idea to give that cleaner a shake down for a few hours as soon as it arrives to sort it out.

.

mountainhorse · Nov 14, 2017

Acetone is my "go to" as well... I have it in clean squeeze bottles in the shop with many other solvents.... but some are freaked out by it... or don't have it in the cabinet.

I've had no residue issues with brake clean when I've used it though. From a "clean room" perspective.. I agree with the comments above about minute residue from some brands.

Easy and cheap to get it too, which is why I recommended it above.

WEAR Nitrile gloves when using solvents.... good ones.... And OF COURSE.... in a well ventilated area, away from any source of ignition/combustion.

If you have access to Acetone, and a safe way to store it... use it.

As for the towels used to wipe with the solvent.... Make sure you let them evaporate COMPLETELY dry before putting them in the garbage.

.

.

dboe03 · Nov 14, 2017

I picked up a demo sled from a dealer that they supposedly go through with a fine tooth comb as Polaris wants them going out on warranty in pristine condition. Checked deflection and it at 2”, not the 1 1/4” it’s supposed to be. Thanks for the heads up to check this!

po-dunk rider · Nov 14, 2017

Anyone use a solvent parts washer/cleaner?

PERFORMANCE TIP: CLEAN YOUR BELT AND CLUTCHES, SET DEFLECTION... EVEN ON NEW SLEDS.

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