Need recommendations on Rear Rear track shock alone, and revalving others

ullose272 · Mar 20, 2018

Just wondering if any of have just replaced the rts with something like a walker clicker or zbroz and just revalved the rest? All my shocks have been revalved by carls, and while most the time they have been awesome, i feel the rts fades pretty fast when going through whoops.

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Sheetmetalfab · Mar 20, 2018

ullose272 said:
Just wondering if any of have just replaced the rts with something like a walker clicker or zbroz and just revalved the rest? All my shocks have been revalved by carls, and while most the time they have been awesome, i feel the rts fades pretty fast when going through whoops.

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As I have 3 clickers and one non clicker I really notice the front track shock fading.

All revalved and resprung by a local guy who sets up iron dog racers.

Any really nice shock will give you a taste of the goods and just make you want more.

mountainhorse · Mar 20, 2018

How many miles on your shocks ullose?

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ullose272 · Mar 21, 2018

mountainhorse said:
How many miles on your shocks ullose?

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They have probably 1300 miles on them since serviced. I had the revalved by carls at about 200 miles with high flow fox pistons and synthetic fluid. I plan on having them serviced this summer and was thinking of maybe finding an assault needle RTS to get revalved at the same time. Then maybe throw some raptor Triple rate spring in the mix as well.

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mountainhorse · Mar 21, 2018

It sounds like you are a high speed whoop 'pounder'... many are that demand the most out of their shocks.

You may benefit from a more robust RTS..

Sincere question to help you.

Are you happy with the shock valving before it begins to fade?

Was the 'fade' apparent when you first installed the new valving and fox internals?

Lastly, how often do you lube your factory suspension and when was the last time you removed it from the sled and disassembled and cleaned all the shaft and arms... looking for the wear that is so common in the factory metal on metal design these suspensions have??

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ullose272 · Mar 21, 2018

mountainhorse said:
It sounds like you are a high speed whoop 'pounder'... many are that demand the most out of their shocks.

You may benefit from a more robust RTS..

Sincere question to help you.

Are you happy with the shock valving before it begins to fade?

Was the 'fade' apparent when you first installed the new valving and fox internals?

Lastly, how often do you lube your factory suspension and when was the last time you removed it from the sled and disassembled and cleaned all the shaft and arms... looking for the wear that is so common in the factory metal on metal design these suspensions have??

.

I lube every couple hundred miles, i am very happy with the valving, but i havent disassembled and cleaned. I plan on major overhaul this summer and that will be part of it. You are right that i am not afraid to hit the bumps at speed, but its only the trail in and out of riding area, 5-10 miles. i think a large part of it is the shocks need serviced. I didnt seem to notice as much last year.

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mountainhorse · Mar 21, 2018

Also... Check for 100% sure... Carls has used mineral oil in some of the revalves that I've taken apart...

If it were me... and I lean towards good maintenance but I'm a cheapskate that wants things to perform...

Get your shocks fully serviced... specify ONLY Amsoil full synth "Shock therapy" fluid in the shocks...or better yet...buy some and send it in with the shocks to be sure. Pull apart your rear skid completely, grease it with Redline CV2 or other verified full synth low temp grease....replace any worn out shafts and hyfax... triple check the condition of your limiter strap... and go for it... I think you will find your fade is gone and your sled performs very well.

Make sure that they are also inspecting ALL the shims and the pistons for fatigue/schorch and erosion.

If you are pounding stuff so hard that you are burning even the Amsoil fluid... then you may need to move up to a remote shock that has more oil volume as you eluded to in your first post here... problem is, most are sold as sets FTS/RTS.

Note: Valving can also scorch the fluid if not done in the right way... for example, two shocks can perform the same on a shock dyno with different valving and piston-orifices in each...one may not scorch the fluid where the other will.

Pull the a-Arm and check the ball joints and bushings at the same time.

A more progressive RTS spring will probably help you out in your case as well.

If you were to contact Jonathon at Raptor... you may be able to talk them into supplying just a RTS with their Progressive spring.... though they will ask you why "you dont want the full meal deal"

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ullose272 · Mar 21, 2018

mountainhorse said:
Also... Check for 100% sure... Carls has used mineral oil in some of the revalves that I've taken apart...

If it were me... and I lean towards good maintenance but I'm a cheapskate that wants things to perform...

Get your shocks fully serviced... specify ONLY Amsoil full synth "Shock therapy" fluid in the shocks...or better yet...buy some and send it in with the shocks to be sure. Pull apart your rear skid completely, grease it with Redline CV2 or other verified full synth low temp grease....replace any worn out shafts and hyfax... triple check the condition of your limiter strap... and go for it... I think you will find your fade is gone and your sled performs very well.

Make sure that they are also inspecting ALL the shims and the pistons for fatigue/schorch and erosion.

If you are pounding stuff so hard that you are burning even the Amsoil fluid... then you may need to move up to a remote shock that has more oil volume as you eluded to in your first post here... problem is, most are sold as sets FTS/RTS.

Note: Valving can also scorch the fluid if not done in the right way... for example, two shocks can perform the same on a shock dyno with different valving and piston-orifices in each...one may not scorch the fluid where the other will.

Pull the a-Arm and check the ball joints and bushings at the same time.

A more progressive RTS spring will probably help you out in your case as well.

If you were to contact Jonathon at Raptor... you may be able to talk them into supplying just a RTS with their Progressive spring.... though they will ask you why "you dont want the full meal deal"

.

Sounds good! Thanks for the tips!

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mountainhorse · Mar 21, 2018

If you get the Shock therapy fluid and send to Andy at Gas Shock repair with all 4 of your shocks... You will have what you want at a good price and good turnaround time.

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diamonddave · Mar 21, 2018

Great input Eric.

I have a sincere question. I have not ever taken apart a shock, I have my other areas of expertise with no excuse but would it make it more sense to do the internal shock upgrades and fluid when the shock is new? Meaning are there parts that will wear that aren't normally replaced and make the shock not work as well had the work been done when the shock was new?

The only anology I can compare it to would be kind of like adding a diesel tuner to a stock trans and then running the trans 10-20K before matching modifications?

Make sense?

mountainhorse · Mar 21, 2018

I dont think it matters when...as long as the piston is in good shape... good revalves bore the orifices or replace the pistons all together.

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TRS · Mar 22, 2018

ullose272 said:
They have probably 1300 miles on them since serviced. I had the revalved by carls at about 200 miles with high flow fox pistons and synthetic fluid. I plan on having them serviced this summer and was thinking of maybe finding an assault needle RTS to get revalved at the same time. Then maybe throw some raptor Triple rate spring in the mix as well.

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If you pound your sled hard, you should service your shocks when you feel a loss in performance. Shims burn out also.
I’ve always said Snowmobile shocks and **** spreaders get the same maintenance, none.
My personal preference is between 300-500 miles.

ullose272 · Mar 22, 2018

TRS said:
If you pound your sled hard, you should service your shocks when you feel a loss in performance. Shims burn out also.
I’ve always said Snowmobile shocks and **** spreaders get the same maintenance, none.
My personal preference is between 300-500 miles.

So at least every summer

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mountainhorse · Mar 22, 2018

Nice to have a shock bench in your own shop :face-icon-small-win :face-icon-small-sho :face-icon-small-ton

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TRS · Mar 23, 2018

ullose272 said:
So at least every summer

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At least.

Like I said, when you feel a loss in performance.

I’m headed to the shop now to do a few shocks.

TRS · Mar 23, 2018

mountainhorse said:
Nice to have a shock bench in your own shop :face-icon-small-win :face-icon-small-sho :face-icon-small-ton

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Yep

boondocker97 · Mar 23, 2018

mountainhorse said:
Nice to have a shock bench in your own shop :face-icon-small-win :face-icon-small-sho :face-icon-small-ton

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Agreed! 500-700 mile mark is where I start to notice a change depending on the areas we've been riding and how much rough trail is involved. Usually ends up being an annual summer service for me.

TRS · Mar 23, 2018

Here is a RTS shim from a ‘18 163 3”.
This replacement Fox shim has just over 300 miles on it.
It’s the first one in the compression stack. As you can see it is deformed.

mountainhorse · Mar 23, 2018

Tony... are you needing to re-fresh your shocks as often as the stockers after your change to the Synth fluid and new valving and Re-drilled pistons?

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ullose272 · Mar 24, 2018

TRS said:
Here is a RTS shim from a ‘18 163 3”.
This replacement Fox shim has just over 300 miles on it.
It’s the first one in the compression stack. As you can see it is deformed.

Is an assault needle shock better about not doing this? Or will the same thing happen?

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Need recommendations on Rear Rear track shock alone, and revalving others

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