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What elevation is that standard compression at?
Would you buy a 14’ Pro?
- Thread starter bowhunter11199
- Start date
What elevation is that standard compression at?
MN about 1200'. Axys and pro motors are pretty close to the same as far as compression is concerned. And yes it does depend on the gauge. On gauge might read 110 and the other 115 and another 105. I've had a high end mac gauge read 60psi and my less expensive gauge read 118. If the compression was 60psi the sled wouldn't even run. This was on a cfi 800.
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Just talked to the tech that did the compression test and he said that 105 is very normal on his Matco gauge, he is seeing new pros with the same compression gauge at 105-110(@4400’ elevation). He also said that overall the sled looked to be in decent shape but the blow back oil canister was weird to him and he’s never seen it before. I asked him about the track and he said he did see some of the chips in the side of the track and that may be from a screw in the tunnel that needs to be flipped around.
He did say he was a skidoo guy but one thing he said kinda stuck with me... that he’s seen the Polaris 800 CFI motors need tops ends anywhere from where the sled is currently mile wise up to about 1500 miles. Essentially meaning that it’s due for a top end any time now and that you never know with the 800s when the motor could go (he has a 17 AXYS in the shop with only a few hundred miles that the motor locked up on). I know every manufacture can have their mishaps but it seems like this 14’ Pro could potentially turn into a money pit even if I do the work myself and just buy parts
When I asked the tech for a recommendation for a sled under $5k, he said the 12’+ etec seemed bullet proof other than needed the skidoo clutch tune up kit around 2000 miles and he said he’s heard good stuff about the arctic cat (13’+)
May walk away from this guys pro for sale and keep looking
He did say he was a skidoo guy but one thing he said kinda stuck with me... that he’s seen the Polaris 800 CFI motors need tops ends anywhere from where the sled is currently mile wise up to about 1500 miles. Essentially meaning that it’s due for a top end any time now and that you never know with the 800s when the motor could go (he has a 17 AXYS in the shop with only a few hundred miles that the motor locked up on). I know every manufacture can have their mishaps but it seems like this 14’ Pro could potentially turn into a money pit even if I do the work myself and just buy parts
When I asked the tech for a recommendation for a sled under $5k, he said the 12’+ etec seemed bullet proof other than needed the skidoo clutch tune up kit around 2000 miles and he said he’s heard good stuff about the arctic cat (13’+)
May walk away from this guys pro for sale and keep looking
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Way to many pros have been tore down prematurely. That's why a leak down test should be performed. Then you will know the condition of the top end. Do not go off compression test alone. I doubt the motor needs a top end. Maybe in another 2000 miles.
This is not true at all!!
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This is not true at all!!
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Ok thanks for the info. I agree on the leak down, but they’re gonna charge me anywhere from 2-4 hours depending on which shop does it. At that point it will run me approx $200-$300 to test after spending $50 on the compression test. Which I agree is money well spent but not if I end up walking from the sled.
Seems that 13+ arctic cats and 12’+ etec don’t necessarily need leak down tests and theoretically I could spend that extra $200-$300 on a more expensive sled. Or is my thinking flawed?
To determine the top end condition with out tearing down the motor a good mechanic will do a leak down test on all motors 2 and 4 strokes no matter the brand.
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Please let me clarify, I’m not taking trash on Polaris, I’m simply stating what I’ve been told...
Here is a close up pic of the worst part of the track. There is 1 maybe 2 spots like this on the track, rest is just frayed a bit. Other than that it’s a fairly clean looking track. I have a slow mo video of the track if I can figure out how to post it on here
Here is a close up pic of the worst part of the track. There is 1 maybe 2 spots like this on the track, rest is just frayed a bit. Other than that it’s a fairly clean looking track. I have a slow mo video of the track if I can figure out how to post it on here
And I was stating that you have been told false information especially about the 13-15 pro 800's.
I would not worry one bit about the track. The mechanic was probably right about it rubbing on a bolt or rivet. When new they stretch and can cause the track to walk from side to side. If you look at other pros you will notice some have wear Mark's low on the out side lugs cause from the same thing, the track walking from side to side and hitting a rivet or bolt that might be just a little 2 long.
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Just an fyi It takes about an hr at the max to do a top end leak down test not 2-4hrs. Its about as simple as doing a compression test.
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I wouldn't trust that mechanic's advice... he is a skidoo fanboy and is giving you bad info based on older sleds and wanting to charge that much for a leakdown test. 13 and newer Polaris motors are generally VERY durable, of course there are a few that go down in any brand Skidoo and Cat included. Seeing lots of miles racked up with the newer motors.
The track doesn't look like an issue to me, not a deal breaker.
If you read the posts closely you will understand why a compression test is worthless. You have a guy with 118-120 compression but 10% and 4% leakdown. At 10% those rings are shot, 4% is just right but the compression test would lead you to believe it is all good.
I agree with the notion that they need 2-4 hours to do a leakdown test is bogus. Compression test should take 15 minutes, leakdown maybe 30...
I do completely agree with the techs opinion on the durability of Polaris motors. Yes, it could need a top end now, it will definitely need one after another season. That is why getting a leakdown on a Polaris is critical. They do a poor job on the consistency of cylinder finish so they are the least consistent runners. Leakdown will tell you where you are at in the rebuild continuum.
Keep in mind the source here, this is the Polaris Pro forum and you are going to get the fan boys. You will find the Polaris guys the most vehement defenders of their brand. Great riding machines but far and away the most expensive to maintain because they are simply the least durable of the three brands by a measurable amount.
Could this sled become a money pit? Sure could... The whole sport is a money pit, wait till you go out to buy gear to keep you warm and dry, there goes another $1500...
If you read the posts closely you will understand why a compression test is worthless. You have a guy with 118-120 compression but 10% and 4% leakdown. At 10% those rings are shot, 4% is just right but the compression test would lead you to believe it is all good.
I agree with the notion that they need 2-4 hours to do a leakdown test is bogus. Compression test should take 15 minutes, leakdown maybe 30...
I do completely agree with the techs opinion on the durability of Polaris motors. Yes, it could need a top end now, it will definitely need one after another season. That is why getting a leakdown on a Polaris is critical. They do a poor job on the consistency of cylinder finish so they are the least consistent runners. Leakdown will tell you where you are at in the rebuild continuum.
Keep in mind the source here, this is the Polaris Pro forum and you are going to get the fan boys. You will find the Polaris guys the most vehement defenders of their brand. Great riding machines but far and away the most expensive to maintain because they are simply the least durable of the three brands by a measurable amount.
Could this sled become a money pit? Sure could... The whole sport is a money pit, wait till you go out to buy gear to keep you warm and dry, there goes another $1500...
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Maybe I’m miss understanding what a leak down test is. This is what my understanding of a leak down is...
https://youtu.be/r-ffJVbpeAs
By the time the tech removes all the internal engine bay pieces, the test looks quick. Then the tech has to reinstall all those pieces. That why I thought 2-4 hours sounded somewhat reasonable.
I’ve called around the state and most of the service managers can’t even tell me the difference between a leak down test and a compression test. Some of them try to tell me they are the same. Seems like there may be a lack of knowledgeable service individuals in Utah
A top end leak down test is done by removing the spark plugs, putting the piston at tdc hooking up the gauge to the cylinder that's at tdc it screws into the spark plug hole then hook up the air hose from compressor to the gauge hold the clutch so the piston wont move, add pressure to the cylinder 100psi and read the gauge. The test is very simple to do.
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By the way I'm not a Polaris fan boy. I own all 4 brands. I just choose to ride Polaris more because I like the way they handle and they're the easiest of all four brands to work on.
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The tunnel looks normal. My 15 SBA did the same thing and so had my 16 axys. I haven't seen any negative effect from it.
Track is normal.
Coolant filter? or breather? Never seen that on a sled...
More than likely that code its throwing is a sensor issue, which is not to expensive to fix.
For $4000, I'd buy it. Every 14 and up Pro 800 I've seen in any of the groups I've ridden in have been flawless. I can't speak to the previous years because I haven't been around them.
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Thanks for the info. What was originally thought to be a coolant filter is actually a blow back oil catch canister. Typically blow back is routed back into the intake but this canister stops the oilly substance from going back into the intake. Or atleast that’s what I’ve bean able to figure out
I am not saying to not buy the sled. For $4k it seems like a pretty nice low mile machine. I would be putting money away for a top end, that's all. I would send it to Indy Specialties and get the super duper cylinder finish put on, and whatever else that Polaris guru suggested. Then you could probably go a few years.
I tried riding Polaris because I do like how they ride the best. I had 2 Pros and an Axys. They are one season machines for me, after that I start losing clutches and motors. If I could afford two new sleds with warranties they would probably be Polaris but, I need a spare. My Cat is less frisky, just as capable and doesn't wear out after a season, I might keep it for a third... Hasn't required a spare. My Doo buddies ride the snot out of theirs too and don't have problems either. Honestly the only time I had a lot of sled issues where my Polaris days, have to go with experience and I know yours may differ.
To me they all have issues. The Cat is too heavy and too wide. The Doo has a goofy steering angle and outdated skid and the Polaris is awesome except for the durability. If they last for you then you have it made. They just don't last for me.
This should be a great sled for a young guy wanting to get back in. Just know that even brand new $14k sleds are not always trouble free. Expect to spend some money if you want to ride a lot.
I tried riding Polaris because I do like how they ride the best. I had 2 Pros and an Axys. They are one season machines for me, after that I start losing clutches and motors. If I could afford two new sleds with warranties they would probably be Polaris but, I need a spare. My Cat is less frisky, just as capable and doesn't wear out after a season, I might keep it for a third... Hasn't required a spare. My Doo buddies ride the snot out of theirs too and don't have problems either. Honestly the only time I had a lot of sled issues where my Polaris days, have to go with experience and I know yours may differ.
To me they all have issues. The Cat is too heavy and too wide. The Doo has a goofy steering angle and outdated skid and the Polaris is awesome except for the durability. If they last for you then you have it made. They just don't last for me.
This should be a great sled for a young guy wanting to get back in. Just know that even brand new $14k sleds are not always trouble free. Expect to spend some money if you want to ride a lot.
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A top end leak down test is done by removing the spark plugs, putting the piston at tdc hooking up the gauge to the cylinder that's at tdc it screws into the spark plug hole then hook up the air hose from compressor to the gauge hold the clutch so the piston wont move, add pressure to the cylinder 100psi and read the gauge. The test is very simple to do.
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I talked to another service manager today and he said how he’s never heard of a leak down test on a 2 stroke snowmobile. He has heard of doing them on 4 strokes. Does the leak down test go by a different name? Maybe I’m describing it incorrectly
No. Do a search on here theres some pretty good info about leak down test by indy specialties and other members.
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