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primary clutch shivs appear to be contacting when clutch is fully closed. any ideas?

Bocephus

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i have never noticed this on my primary before. then last month i had the clutch rebuilt due to one of the rollers that the weights rolls against being bad. now i have this marking on the base of both shivs. it appears as if they are chattering together. does this look normal to you guys?

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Bocephus

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i maybe was like this before. i just dont remember it.... i saw it this time when i was inspecting/cleaning it and it threw up a red flag....
 

Thunder101

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Its not common to get the dr clutch to FULLy shift out., but with the gears in our M's you can gear out and hit full shift. Had my 11 HCR up to 85 this weekend guess I will look at the dr clutch
 

Hardass

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In reality then it looks like you are over shifting can you put a heavier spring to stop it from going that far?
 

LoudHandle

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First not a cat guy, but this should be a mathematical impossibility unless your clutch's center to center is not too short, your drive belt worn too thin, or your secondary is opening too far. The only time the clutch should move that far is without a belt on it. If it is allowed to contact at the bottom like that, then it is not squeezing the belt like it should be and will be slipping the belt at full shift. You should check your center to center and can likely shim the secondary to keep it from opening that far regardless of the spring used, resulting in no slippage. A good engineer would have made this calculation and saved you the hassle. Continued operation will result in failure at some point.
 

Hardass

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After what was said above and seeing your post about the secondary it seems you may well have your answer
 

Bocephus

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After what was said above and seeing your post about the secondary it seems you may well have your answer

which post about the secondary?


before i even posted this, i had similar thoughts to what was posted above. i NEVER noticed this banged up surface before. i take my clutches off and clean them after every ride out west in the mtns, and never seen it. after i had the primary gone through, i installed the freshly rebuilt clutch, installed a new belt, and ran with it. the belt was too tight for the first 1/2 day of riding. i had a light squeal it idle, so i slowly adjusted my BDX deflection adjuster on my RKT secondary setup until the squeal was gone.
 

Hardass

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I actually meant artic thunders post About his secondary's white bushing in the center being to thin and going inside the id of his shift assist bearing And letting the secondary open to far.I was thinking about 2 things at once but they seemed related sorry for the confusion.
 
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Desperado

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Primary

Who rebuilt your primary clutch, I can get my primary to look that way simply by adjucting my ABC aduster closing the shieves. Guess what I'm getting at is whoever rebuilt the clutch probably reshimmed the spider making your resting or fully open position a little tigher. AC primarys vary a bunch between units. Mine for example is about 60 or 70 thou two open, that was stock from the factory with a new belt installed. My ABC adjuster makes my poorly built clutch better by being able to adjust as the belt wears. In your instance my guess is as the belt wears that ring will go away.
 

Bocephus

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Who rebuilt your primary clutch, I can get my primary to look that way simply by adjucting my ABC aduster closing the shieves. Guess what I'm getting at is whoever rebuilt the clutch probably reshimmed the spider making your resting or fully open position a little tigher. AC primarys vary a bunch between units. Mine for example is about 60 or 70 thou two open, that was stock from the factory with a new belt installed. My ABC adjuster makes my poorly built clutch better by being able to adjust as the belt wears. In your instance my guess is as the belt wears that ring will go away.

is there a reason one would have to do this?
 
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