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Finished Silber install : high idle problems

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TurboMatt

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Mar 23, 2008
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I put another 60 miles on mine. Idles at 1600 all the time.

I'm trying to figure out what is wrong.
And yes I know your sled runs and idles perfect, you've now said it 3 times in this thread, good for you. I talked to Silber and he told me to run it, so I did.
 

Liv4snow

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My brother had one last year the reverse quit. They had to hook it to the computer and reflash it. No idea what caused it. As far as the tps goes I think it has to be hooked to the computer to adjust it.
 

Boston Racing

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are you sure that cable is not binding? what about the oiler rod, is it hanging up?

if you manually open the throttle bodies do they snap shut?

If it didn't do it before the turbo install, The install may be part of the problem.

Nothing in the kit will make it idle at 3900. The most common thing would be for it to idle 100-200 rpm low until the o2 sensor heats up.

Did you happen to turn the oiler up during your install?
 

Boston Racing

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I'm trying to figure out what is wrong.
And yes I know your sled runs and idles perfect, you've now said it 3 times in this thread, good for you. I talked to Silber and he told me to run it, so I did.

I'm trying to help you realize you have a problem so that we can get to the bottom of it. Riding a sled that idles at 3900 is not right in any fashion. Heaven forbid it climbs to 4200 and your sled takes off on its own:face-icon-small-sho

You shouldn't have done anything during your install to affect the TPS sensor.

Did the sled run fine before the install? This is the most important one.
 
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TurboMatt

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Mar 23, 2008
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are you sure that cable is not binding? what about the oiler rod, is it hanging up?

if you manually open the throttle bodies do they snap shut?

If it didn't do it before the turbo install, The install may be part of the problem.

Nothing in the kit will make it idle at 3900. The most common thing would be for it to idle 100-200 rpm low until the o2 sensor heats up.

Did you happen to turn the oiler up during your install?
I know I have a problem. I truly do. And I really want to get it resolved.And I appreciate your help.
The sled definately ran fine before the install.

I am sure the cable is not binding. The throttle bodies do snap shut. I have checked the cable over multiple times. I also have checked the oil rod during install and it moved free.
It didn't do it before the install, so yes, I'm sure something during the install is causing this.
What would the 02 sensor heating up have to do with the idle, the Wideband sensor isn't even hooked up the the controller???

I did turn the oiler up about 2 full turns during the install. Could that cause an issue? I wouldn't think adjusting the oiler would cause any issues.
The strange thing is that it idles normal about 20% of the time when I start it up. If I even slightly touch the throttle it revs up to high idle though and doesn't come back down. I'd have to turn it off and start it back up a couple times to get the idle normal again.
 
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Boston Racing

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I am sure the cable is not binding. The throttle bodies do snap shut. I have checked the cable over multiple times. I also have checked the oil rod during install and it moved free.
It didn't do it before the install, so yes, I'm sure something during the install is causing this.
What would the 02 sensor heating up have to do with the idle, the Wideband sensor isn't even hooked up the the controller???

I did turn the oiler up about 2 full turns during the install. Could that cause an issue? I wouldn't think adjusting the oiler would cause any issues.
The strange thing is that it idles normal about 20% of the time when I start it up. If I even slightly touch the throttle it revs up to high idle though and doesn't come back down. I'd have to turn it off and start it back up a couple times to get the idle normal again.

Your sled barely has enough power for everything while the sensor heats up. Try starting it and stabbing the throttle before the sensor is heats up. It will spit and sputter. Once the sensor heats up it draws much less power and everything works perfectly.

Are you positive you adjusted the oiler and not the throttle stop for the butterflys? They both look similar.
 
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TurboMatt

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Mar 23, 2008
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Your sled barely has enough power for everything while the sensor heats up. Try starting it and stabbing the throttle before the sensor is heats up. It will spit and sputter. Once the sensor heats up it draws much less power and everything works perfectly.

Are you positive you adjusted the oiler and not the throttle stop for the butterflys? They both look similar.
That makes sense about the voltage.

The oiler is the one that is between the 2 throttle bodies(has yellow paint on it). The throttle stop is the one right by the throttle cable.
 

Boston Racing

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Another thing could be an air leak from when you installed the new TB boot. Try spraying carb cleaner around the boot while the sled is idling and see if there is any idle change.

What do the plugs look like?
 
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TurboMatt

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Mar 23, 2008
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Another thing could be an air leak from when you installed the new TB boot. Try spraying carb cleaner around the boot while the sled is idling and see if there is any idle change.

What do the plugs look like?

Yeah I tried this already. I used starting fluid because that's what Silber reccomended. I sprayed about 1/2 a can and found no change in idle at all. I don't think it's a leak. If it was a leak it would do it ALL the time. remember it does sometimes idle normal. Is my thinking correct here?

Plugs look good.

Yes, the oiler is pointing to the mag side.

The wideband a/f does read leaner when its idleing high, but I'm not sure that means it leaking
 
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Boston Racing

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You didn't happen to install a lefty at the same time did ya?

Try unhooking the cable from the flipper and see if it still does it. You can pull it with your fingers and see if it idles down.
 
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TurboMatt

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You didn't happen to install a lefty at the same time did ya?

Try unhooking the cable from the flipper and see if it still does it. You can pull it with your fingers and see if it idles down.
No, I didn't install a lefty.
I already tried that too. I disconnected the cable from both the tb and the flipper. It still idled high.
 

Boston Racing

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Lean at idle can cause the motor to "lean hang" preventing it from idling down when releasing the throttle. How lean is it? Usually lean hangs are caused by improper a/f mixture, sometimes by air leaks.

I will check mine tomorrow and see what a/f it idles at.
 
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TurboMatt

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When its idling "normal" the a/f is in the 14.2 range. When it's idling high it's in the 14.9-15.5 range, depending on what rpm it's at.
One other thing to throw into the equation and I said this earlier too. I tried disconnecting the controller, basically I just disconnected from the injector harness and connected the injector harness back stock. While this didn't fix the problem it did act differently and I think its worth thinking about. It would idle rock solid at 2500rpm's when I did this. When the controller is hooked up and its idling high it will surge up and down a few hundred rpm's and always be higher than 2700rpms. I don't know what this means though.
 

Boston Racing

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Which side of the solenoid does the blue hose coming from the TB boot go to?

The side with only one fitting or the side that looks like a fitting an another opening?

You have both of the upright hoses going to the top of the BOV. The mag side fitting going to the boost gauge and the PTO side with the blue hose going to the solenoid. Any of those 4 hoes that may have a hole can also cause an air leak that wouldn't show up by spraying the boot but could cause a lean hang.
 
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