RMK 800 Mod Help!!!

mikekellam · Feb 18, 2010

I have a 2001 RMK 800 bone stock that I would like to start shedding weight on and moding out. It only has 1000 original miles on it. I am looking for lots of ideas and am wondering if anyone has ported thier own track themselves. Any help would be great. I am also wondering what I can do to get rid of the huge stock air box and my steering column is not the greatest. I am 6'2" and 200lbs and i bend it when we are in the thick stuff all of the time and am worried I am goin to break it. Thanks for any help.

Mike

theUltamateTBM · Feb 18, 2010

yes you can port the track yourself I used a 7/8 holesaw to do mine also I would start with a pipe and can or at least can also I would keep the airbox but put the slp airbox top on and ou can pound a piece of steel down the steering stem to make it stronger

mikekellam · Feb 18, 2010

appreciate the advice, i am definitely going with the can and will look into the slp air box top and I really like the pipe idea. Never thought of that. thanks again.

fordpickupman · Feb 18, 2010

mods.

1.25" holesaw and three hours to do my 151". I like filters over the airbox, way easier to mess with the carbs when your not fighting that %&%$%^^% airbox out and back into place. Take off everything you don't need.

mikekellam · Feb 18, 2010

I was wondering about the filters instead of the air box. I am still looking for anything else to get rid of and save some weight. thanks

Scott · Feb 18, 2010

If you don't go with filters just gut the airbox (take out the baffles) and put in the SLP box top.

Get every prefilter you can get for it and get as much air into it as possible.

SLP exhaust for it also.

Carbon fiber trailing arms from Fabcraft. I'm on my 10th season with mine.

Rebuild your seat.

Take the cover off and replace all the inside foam with the swimming noodles. MUCH lighter, more firm and doesn't hold water like the stock seat.

Use WD40 when you drill your track. Spin it fast rpms but take your time. Make it hot so it melts and cauterizes the rubber.

sodfarmer · Feb 18, 2010

Strip all the foam off the backside of the hood. The seat off a Verical Edge or escape is tons lighter and much firmer. Take off the plastic cover on the rear of the tunnel. Lose anything you don't need.

700mc · Feb 19, 2010

i wouldnt use filters. i had them and hated them. they were fine on the trail but as soon as you hit powder your vents on your hood will plug up with snow and you will run pig rich. been there done that, never again!

fordpickupman · Feb 19, 2010

huh.

700mc said:
i wouldnt use filters. i had them and hated them. they were fine on the trail but as soon as you hit powder your vents on your hood will plug up with snow and you will run pig rich. been there done that, never again!

I actually had the opposite experience, that is why I am considering running filters again. I understand the newer sleds have a better air intake than the ol' wedges, so maybe that is why. I put filters on my old one because everytime the powder got deep it would drown and get me stuck. My current sled did this to me this year (also a wedge), reminded me why I switched to them.

theUltamateTBM · Feb 19, 2010

I really recomend the slp airbox top I put one on my 01 700 and one on my brothers 00 700 when I did his I had to go up on the mainjet 2 sizes and 2 on the pilot as well so I know it was helping out

Spiderman · Feb 19, 2010

I use the filters and actually built a box around them so it doesn't suck the hot air in. It has velcro sides and comes off and on easy. Cpi twins work great on that sled but are LOUD!

Scott · Feb 19, 2010

I have an 01 RMK mod...and I have been running filters for 6 years.

I am going to try to make an airbox for mine...and go back to that.

rdr99 · Feb 22, 2010

Gut the stock airbox, and get the SLP upper half. Lightweight hood will take alot of pounds off. If you are staying with the stock hood, add some flowrites in the windshield pod. Keep a close eye on the primary clutch for wear, I always balance mine. Check crank runout regularly. As for drilling the track, you can order the BDX tool, or use a hole saw. I use a 1" hole saw with the teeth ground off.

sodfarmer · Feb 22, 2010

I was having air starvation problems in deep powder as well. I removed both stock gauges and replaced them with flowrites and bought a digitron to keep tabs on my motor. It helped alot.

manowar · Feb 22, 2010

I think this is a great sled to mod . If you want good power and reliable do a slp singe with all the flo rites and air box top then get rid of all the stuff you dont need lighten it up . Then do a nice drop&roll it will wake up the handling of that sled

manowar · Feb 22, 2010

I have a drop& roll template you can use if you promse to send it back when your done just pay the shiping to you and back to me . Be like $10 for usps prioty mail round trip.

manowar · Feb 22, 2010

As for your steering post . Your higth and weight considered i would look in e bay and swapmeet for a wild child post or pm him on here . You will like a bit of riser and your gona rip it off unless you get a cromolly post thats just how they are .

rdr99 · Feb 22, 2010

I will second the Wildchild post and hoop, maybe add the upper support block too.

Scott · Feb 23, 2010

I have a wildchild post. They are STURDY!!

mikekellam · Feb 23, 2010

I will think about the drop and roll. Whats that cost. I have thought about it before but am not really familiar with the whole deal. It must give you some more tunnel clearence. I really appreciate all of the insight.

RMK 800 Mod Help!!!

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